|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#3591 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sweden
|
|
|
|
|
#3592 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
|
Mindutis: yes. Switches requiring brute tactile force make them feel solid. :-)
Update about the bias: the Shuguangs were running at an OK level from the factory. The plate voltage was 401 V and the cathode currents were L: 52 mA and R: 53 mA - giving a a value of > 21 W which seemed high to me but the specs claim a max 30 W for Shuguangs - so it was exactly 70%. Tested a lower level and adjusted both to 40 mA giving a 412 V and thus 16.5 W. Seems enough for me (sound is the same) and maybe get a better life for the tubes? |
|
|
|
#3593 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Madrid
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
#3594 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Victoria, BC
|
A recent build of Bruce Heran's Poddwatt......
6N1P drivers, EL84 (6P14P-EV) outputs. Heath SA-2 OTs. Power transformer was something I had on the shelf, but was a bit small, so I added a filament transformer. Cherry knob and end plates. |
|
|
|
#3595 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Victoria, BC
|
Console pull was a Canadian RCA Victor with a voltage doubler power supply. Initially I thought I would be able to use the old can caps, but the hum level was too high, so I stacked some new caps under the deck. I left the smaller cans in place, disconnected.
The chassis wasn't really suitable for leaving exposed, so I built a wooden case - open backed. Box is finger-jointed black cherry with spalted arbutus sawn veneer faceplate. The chassis is raised about 1/4 inch so that there is good air flow via the bottom gap and the numerous perforations in the chassis top. |
|
|
|
#3596 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Victoria, Australia
|
Good work. I like the bit of timber.
|
|
|
|
#3597 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Victoria, BC
|
Console pull - made in Port Moody,BC by Chisholm.
The IEC power entry fit (with some work) into the hole left by the octal socket which communicated with the tuner & control panel in the console. I used the original tube sockets which were fairly good quality. Desoldering the (very well-done) original construction was a bit of work. Usually the final lug on the tube socket is the one that breaks. Either my technique is improving or I'm getting lucky: this time everything survived. ![]() End plates are curly arbutus. |
|
|
|
#3598 | |
|
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
#3599 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Victoria, BC
|
|
|
|
|
#3600 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
|
I am a new member, this is done I just Monoblock, PSU, OPT, chassis
Diy at home. |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
| New To Site? | Need Help? |