• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

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eboz; Lookin' good, brother. I love the set-up and the craftsmanship. And admire the iron, looks quite substantial. How does she sound? What type of Iron did you use, or how 'bout just some more general details?

greenvalve; Simple is good, my friend, simple is good. As a general rule, simple is what it takes. Now I'm not knockin' all you geniouses and high rollers that have the time and capitol to make insanely complicated, every spec audiophile grade 99.99999% silver etc etc etc... but my philosophy is keep it designed well, executed well and GOOD parts. That's what it takes for me. I don't mean to offend anyone but I really must say I don't like the "Night" shots too much. I build and listen to my tube equipment because it SOUNDS better. A LOT better. Not because it looks cool. (But it does........)

Well done gents!
 
greenvalve; Simple is good, my friend, simple is good. As a general rule, simple is what it takes. Now I'm not knockin' all you geniouses and high rollers that have the time and capitol to make insanely complicated, every spec audiophile grade 99.99999% silver etc etc etc... but my philosophy is keep it designed well, executed well and GOOD parts. That's what it takes for me. I don't mean to offend anyone but I really must say I don't like the "Night" shots too much. I build and listen to my tube equipment because it SOUNDS better. A LOT better. Not because it looks cool. (But it does........)

Well done gents!

Thanks Rumad, yup I like the thoriated tubes because they glow like my photo day or night. Having tried many many others, I keep coming back to the RCA 210. You can see in my photo the room is daytime and well lit. The 82 MV rectifier is 'special needs' but untouchable compared to SS rectification.
 
eboz; Lookin' good, brother. I love the set-up and the craftsmanship. And admire the iron, looks quite substantial. How does she sound? What type of Iron did you use, or how 'bout just some more general details?

greenvalve; Simple is good, my friend, simple is good. As a general rule, simple is what it takes. Now I'm not knockin' all you geniouses and high rollers that have the time and capitol to make insanely complicated, every spec audiophile grade 99.99999% silver etc etc etc... but my philosophy is keep it designed well, executed well and GOOD parts. That's what it takes for me. I don't mean to offend anyone but I really must say I don't like the "Night" shots too much. I build and listen to my tube equipment because it SOUNDS better. A LOT better. Not because it looks cool. (But it does........)

Well done gents!

Thanks for asking about the amp. It started out with some custom made iron from an individual in Australia. That included the OPT, two 15H chokes, and two toroidal transformers. The rest of the iron is from Electraprint; another two chokes, the HV B+ supply, heater supplies, interstage transformers.

The amp sounds very powerful and just a solid wall to wall image. I loaded the 2a3 to 4k ohms Z and this accounts for the very neutral tone and quick response. I'm hoping that I can get close to this sound in a smaller package in my next amp, which is an A2 mode 4-65 Eimac amp. Michael Koster has been doing a lot of work on that front and I have learned a lot from him.
 
Here's my little tribute to Morgan Jones' "Crystal Palace," 13E1, pp amplifier.

This one is called "Alexandra Palace" and is a single-ended 13E1 amp.

A bit of a Transatlantic job this one; it uses American 6CL3 damper diodes
as rectifiers and 12B4As as drivers.

Heading up the British contingent are the 13E1 output tubes and the VT105 (ML6) pre stage.

Chassis and cage by Hammond, Output transformers by Majestic Transformer Company (UK) and mains transformer and chokes by Danbury Electronics (UK)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I just luurve this amp:)
 
Nice job.......not much under ! There's alot to be gained for keeping things simple.
In comparison, the business side photo of my 150+150W UL amps. Considerable amount of DC supplies and watchdog thrown in.....the lower rht corner is the PFC & switchmode B+.

richy
 

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Are you happy with them ? Mine though p-p give a very transparent and accurate sound. Did you provide the specifications ?


richy

Hi Rich,

The transformers are superb. As you say they are transparent and accurate with great bass.
I specced them out and Majestic built them for me. Good value too.

They have 1k25 primaries and are gapped for 200mA standing DC.
The 13E1s idle at 155mA with 46V of cathode bias, giving about 11 watts per channel, give or take half a watt.

Steve

I'm well pleased with the amp
 
Hi eboz
Lovely looking amp .Are you using the Svetlana 6D22 damper diode in the power supply.If so are you happy with them and are they reliable .I ask because I'mm using them in a 300B SET amp I'm building.

Cheers

Mal

Mal,

Yep that is exactly what those are. I would say to buy a batch of 10, because at first I had some arc-overs during prototyping. It was probably my own mistake though, because I didn't take as good care for their layout as I should have. There is a max heater to cathode rating that I didn't want to exceed, so I tied the heater to the cathode, in effect making it direct-heated. They're reliable in full wave bridge with heater tied to cathode now, and also make sure to insulate the individual socket contacts well with heat shrink. You see that I used four of these diodes - one each of the others are used in the series with the driver's dual-mono supply just for slow startup and dropping a little voltage. The amp sounds phenomenal, and I would definitely use these diodes again!

And one more tip - if you plan to pair this with high eff speakers >95db and are sensitive to any hum/noise, then I would recommend trying DC heating of the diodes.
 
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