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Old 24th October 2002, 03:21 PM   #11
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Joel,

My comment about "a couple of hundred dollars" referred to the Vaic Valve new production 45's.

I watch ebay too, and have several tube dealers I do business with, and I still feel buying a 45 unless it's tested NOS from a reputable seller/dealer is a lottery.

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Old 24th October 2002, 03:23 PM   #12
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Default Tubes.

Fellows,

Think we're way ahead of the project as such by pinning down any tube types.
Luckily there's still some tubes left so while there is a choice....

However,personally I wouldn't even consider buying used tubes.
Doesn't mean you can't find any good ones but I rather buy some good NOS from someone I know.
If I can visually expect them before forking out the money I will always prefer that too.

BTW,have any of you ever seen a 211W or 845W made by United?
To me these are in the same league as the Bendix Red Bank stuff.
Marvelous stuff,once you had a listen to a set of those it was pretty hard to go back to Chinese glass.

Just my 2 Eurocents,
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Old 24th October 2002, 03:31 PM   #13
Joel is offline Joel  United States
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chinese tubes make me

But we should take this elsewhere - poor Ken L hasn't even picked out a speaker yet.

joel

NOS= Need to be Overcharged for the Same stuff.
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Old 24th October 2002, 03:35 PM   #14
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Joel,

Even new ones are often overcharged.
But let's take that elsewhere.

See you,
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Old 24th October 2002, 06:22 PM   #15
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Ken,

looks like you are slowly getting pointed in "the mostly full-range" route. This is a term i use for a multi-way system that is centred around a full-range speaker as an extended midrange -- in some cases the midrange extends high enuff that a supertweeter is not needed (ie Fertin). At the Frugal-phile(tm) level that i am playing in, the FR usually needs a little help at the top -- above 10k in the case of the RS 40-1197s i'm using at the moment, and probably more like 13-15k when i get around to getting the FE103As into a box. If a ST is needed a simple cap XO is all that is required. And then you fill in the bottom with a pr of active woofers, using a nice SS amp. The FR/extMid can be run FR or have a PLLXO built into the amp... i am currently not running my woofers because of the veil that the op-amp 4th order LR was adding ...

I have been using a dumpster diver EL84 single-ended pentode amp, but it is just a bit lacking in dynamics when i want to turn things up. An Allen Wright inspired PP EL84 amp is in the queue (monoblocs based on Dyna SCA35 or a stereo amp based on a Scott LK48). Those and the more efficient FE103As should hopefully get the dynamics up (and since i'm running bipoles i can always add a 2nd amp for the rear firing drivers for another 3 dB if needed).

The basic concepts apply to almost any level of spending... i'm trying to get my whole system down to less than a kilo$ -- maybe less. The hardest part is a good TT that costs nothing...

dave
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Old 24th October 2002, 10:56 PM   #16
Ken L is offline Ken L  United States
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Dave, I think you're pointing me in the right direction-

General direction- Full range-extended range mid-falls right in with Frank suggesting bi-amping

A safe assumption that could go with a Fertin or other full-range.

Now what circuits and tubes? Brett's suggestions of Ralph Power/Amity is definitely on the short list -

Joel - thanks for your thoughts - I don't think I want to go ultralinear -

Frank - what ideas do you have? Any adaptation of the circuit you posted several weeks ago?

I'm not necessarily locked in to a 6B4G design -

What else should I consider?

Mohan - you out there now?? I hoped for a comment from Mohan -I guess he might not be around.

Later

Ken L
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Old 25th October 2002, 12:17 AM   #17
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Default DECISIONS...

Hi Ken,

Am I wrong or do you have a PP 300B amp already?
Do you want to integrate it in the new system?
If so,it could be used to drive the FR.
Which one you have BTW?

In case you decide to add a tweeter, a SE would be great using a small DHT.
Keep in mind tube availability since we don't want you (nor anyone else for that matter) to pay through the nose for spare tubes.

For the lower registers I think you already have a set of subwoofers with active Xover and SS amps so my only concern there is sonic integration.
If this filter allows for different orders of filtering then you're fine since it allows for some experimentation as to integrating the sound of the woofers with the rest of the system.
In general I prefer 1st order series filtering if the units can take it,here you should not have such problem.
If you decide not to keep the active crossovers then we will need to calculate a 2nd or 1st order filter for the subs.(Lowpass)

The signal for the FR and tweeter I would take from the preamp if
it's a tube design with low Zout.
The FR I would leave as such but if deemed necessary integrating a first order highpass filter is a piece of cake.
The eventual tweeter I would also filter with a series cap 1st order at the amps input.

Best regards,
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Old 25th October 2002, 02:33 AM   #18
Ken L is offline Ken L  United States
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Default Yep

I've got a VAC 30/30.

Actually, I am thinking to build 4 monoblocks and then sell the VAC.

It's the current production model - depending on various prices if I could get what the recent ones have sold for on Audiogon, I might even have change left over - If I don't build something that sounds better I'll keep it.

What do you think I ought to build to replace it??

The subs don't integrate as well as I would like at this time -

Later

Ken L
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Old 25th October 2002, 02:38 AM   #19
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Default SUBTROUBLE

Hey Ken,

Quote:
The subs don't integrate as well as I would like at this time -
An unfortunate but rather common problem,I'm afraid.
In the meantime could you tell us more about what they're actually made of?
Filter e.g.?

See you,
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Old 25th October 2002, 03:54 AM   #20
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Default Re: Yep

Quote:
Originally posted by Ken L
What do you think I ought to build to replace it??
Build. You should be able to come out with change in your pocket, plus the satisfaction of having built your own.

And do tell us about the subs.

dave
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