The 6V6 is a great sounding tube.
Please visit http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/audio/audioel.htm#Amps
for some ideas.
Remember that the 6V6 is very similar to the 6BQ5.
Amplifiers which are designed around the 6BQ5 can be easily modified to operate with the 6V6.
Happy construction!
Please visit http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/audio/audioel.htm#Amps
for some ideas.
Remember that the 6V6 is very similar to the 6BQ5.
Amplifiers which are designed around the 6BQ5 can be easily modified to operate with the 6V6.
Happy construction!
salas,
6V6G is OLD stock ST ("coke bottle") envelope. Current production and most NOS is 6V6GT cylindrical envelope. Unless they're gassy, those OLD tubes should sound NICE.
A SUPERB circuit for putting 6V6s to work is Poindexter's "Musical Machine". Poinz's amp is an integrated and a preamp is not needed.
Poindexter's Site
You are in a 240 V. house current country. That makes things a little simpler for a SS rectified B+ PSU. A 1:1 isolation trafo is all you need. Bridge rectify with 4X 600 PIV Silicon Carbide (SiC) Schottky diodes and CLC filter.
6V6G is OLD stock ST ("coke bottle") envelope. Current production and most NOS is 6V6GT cylindrical envelope. Unless they're gassy, those OLD tubes should sound NICE.
A SUPERB circuit for putting 6V6s to work is Poindexter's "Musical Machine". Poinz's amp is an integrated and a preamp is not needed.
Poindexter's Site
You are in a 240 V. house current country. That makes things a little simpler for a SS rectified B+ PSU. A 1:1 isolation trafo is all you need. Bridge rectify with 4X 600 PIV Silicon Carbide (SiC) Schottky diodes and CLC filter.
Thanx! You gave me a cool circuit to build. My tubes are ST bottle carbonised glass from top to bottom, living only 1,5 cm of clear glass before the black base. They just have 6V
6G in an octagon. They have yellow lettering on base W^D ZA 5306. There is an N on its bottom near rthe pins. They also have carbonised anodes. Maybe KenRad or Sylvania or GE JAN?
6G in an octagon. They have yellow lettering on base W^D ZA 5306. There is an N on its bottom near rthe pins. They also have carbonised anodes. Maybe KenRad or Sylvania or GE JAN?
Bingo
Yes, RCA they are. I compared my 5U4Gs & 5R4GYs and have same bases, same octagon stamping, same ink.
I see they are sought after! He I am happy. Got em in perfect condition, wrapped with army OK notes, and matched current notes. For 3 EURO each!
Did you ever experience NOS 6V6 sound? Could they compare to my NOS 6L6WGBs?
Yes, RCA they are. I compared my 5U4Gs & 5R4GYs and have same bases, same octagon stamping, same ink.
I see they are sought after! He I am happy. Got em in perfect condition, wrapped with army OK notes, and matched current notes. For 3 EURO each!
Did you ever experience NOS 6V6 sound? Could they compare to my NOS 6L6WGBs?
http://www.joeltunnah.com/images/jt_6SN7_6V6.jpg
If you can live with 2.5W RMS, then this one sounds good to me.
Joel
If you can live with 2.5W RMS, then this one sounds good to me.
Joel
Re: Bingo
Somebody got "robbed" and it wasn't you.
There is something very special about "12" W. multi-grid power O/P tubes. The 6L6 is more powerful than the 6V6, but the 6V6 is the better HIFI tube. FWIW, I've seen claims that the 6V6 is the most linear of the "12" watters, when triode strapped.
salas said:
Somebody got "robbed" and it wasn't you.
There is something very special about "12" W. multi-grid power O/P tubes. The 6L6 is more powerful than the 6V6, but the 6V6 is the better HIFI tube. FWIW, I've seen claims that the 6V6 is the most linear of the "12" watters, when triode strapped.
I see he has an interesting 6L6 schematic too and I have all the driver tubes. The comments of how it sounds are near to what I experience with my current 6L6amp that it takes EL34 too, but I prefer the sound of 6L6. It seems that the orchestra remains there in pianisimo passages with 6L6 when with EL34 it recides and paints just in strokes, then it comes back in mezzo forte. I find more light in 6L6 sound. I feel that the 'musical machine' is the purest and most dynamic approach that I have seen recommended for 6V6G yet. Can anyone describe the tone of 6V6G? Is it at all near EL84 that I know and like?
Joel: Thanks for your schematics. You have a nice site. Although I have just finished tuning my latest loudspeaker design with carbon midwoofers and a ribbon tweeter which is specifically 16 Ohm to help tubes I think it will need more than 10W. This speaker is extremely revealing and has +/- 1 dB response. This will be a tool to judge tube tone for sure. What is your opininion about 6V6 vs 6L6 tone?
I second poindexters amp, but using a seperate 6P5 line stage driving a Sylvania 6SN7 'T' plate instead of the 5965. For a 9-pin socket, an Amperex 6085 should be a stellar performer in place of the 5965. Either tube needs a linestage amp for full volume. Use nothing lower than an 8K audio transformer & 10K is best if you can find a pair.
CV4003 = 12AU7 The gm of the 12AU7/ECC82 is low compared to that of the 5965 and gm is important in a differential splitter. The 5687 and the ECC99 are HIGH gm types, with a mu of the ECC82's order, that rate to work better than the 'U7 in this topology. The 5687 and ECC99 sound BETTER than the 'U7 too. Be aware of the INCREASED heater current needed by the HIGH gm/LOW Rp types.
salas,
Your power O/P requirements are a high for the "machine", as done by Poinz. You could try lowering 6V6 idle current, which pushes the amp closer to Class "B". Another possibility is Bandersnatch's E-linear topology. E-linear wires the "finals" up either ultralinear or pentode (regulate g2 B+) and connects the splitter load resistors to ultralinear taps on the O/P trafos, instead of B+ directly. E-linear is a slick variation on the plate to grid NFB theme.
Your power O/P requirements are a high for the "machine", as done by Poinz. You could try lowering 6V6 idle current, which pushes the amp closer to Class "B". Another possibility is Bandersnatch's E-linear topology. E-linear wires the "finals" up either ultralinear or pentode (regulate g2 B+) and connects the splitter load resistors to ultralinear taps on the O/P trafos, instead of B+ directly. E-linear is a slick variation on the plate to grid NFB theme.
Hey-hey!!!,
A few examples of the E-Linear circuit can be found here:
http://audioroundtable.com/GroupBuild/Projects/
Merlin V2 is the latest, and only circuit I am going to make more than once.
The V2 makes use of MOSFET's for the upper element in a hybrid cascode. It is a bit more voltage efficient than putting another triode up there.
Remember the 11th Commandment: Protect the gate-source voltage limit with a Zener clamp.
Pick the plate load and bottom triode's gm to give the gain you need. The 6101 and 30k plate loads allow the use 1:1 gain linestages.
You can also use a single element pentode instead of a cascode for the front end. Ref the g2's to the cathode node, not to ground.
This circuitry works quite well. Pick the output TX a-a load, and finals, and paste on the front end. Haven't found anything it does not work for yet.
cheers,
Douglas
A few examples of the E-Linear circuit can be found here:
http://audioroundtable.com/GroupBuild/Projects/
Merlin V2 is the latest, and only circuit I am going to make more than once.
The V2 makes use of MOSFET's for the upper element in a hybrid cascode. It is a bit more voltage efficient than putting another triode up there.
Remember the 11th Commandment: Protect the gate-source voltage limit with a Zener clamp.
Pick the plate load and bottom triode's gm to give the gain you need. The 6101 and 30k plate loads allow the use 1:1 gain linestages.
You can also use a single element pentode instead of a cascode for the front end. Ref the g2's to the cathode node, not to ground.
This circuitry works quite well. Pick the output TX a-a load, and finals, and paste on the front end. Haven't found anything it does not work for yet.
cheers,
Douglas
salas said:
I am not a fan of creating more gain than is required. I am not a fan of the 12AU7 either.
The front end has its gain set by gm and R_load. Pick how much gain is needed, and go from there. Once you have set the required gain, you can make circuit value decisions more clearly.
cheers,
Douglas
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