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Old 4th November 2005, 09:12 PM   #21
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Titanium or carbide drill bits up to 1/2" or so. Greenlee chassis punches or equivalent for holes up to 1 1/2" and a nibbling tool for odd sized or shaped holes.

Most of my chassis are aluminum from bud, hammond, or SMB. Easily worked which is why I mention them. Sometimes (rarely now) I make them from scratch if I have access to a good bending brake.

Steel is really hard on drill bits and punches.

While drilling use lubricants, remove swarf frequently. Lubricate draw bolt on punches, or better still get one with bearing if possible.

Be safe! (Wear safety glasses!)

Kevin
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Old 4th November 2005, 10:11 PM   #22
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We have dozens of sets around here -- a small shard of metal can blind.
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Old 5th November 2005, 06:12 AM   #23
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I use a conical step drill to make holes, then open them out if needed with a nibbler. The holes a lot of the time need a bit of deburring - I just use a drill somewhat bigger than the hole to clean the crud away.
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Old 9th November 2005, 01:34 PM   #24
garbage is offline garbage  Singapore
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Talking plain hard work

Quote:
Originally posted by elementx
how do you? jigsaw? tiedious drilling?

i'm refering to socket holes, transformer holes...
first mark out 3mm or so from the perimeter, use a dot punch to mark reasonable distances for a 4mm drill bit. the idea is to end up with holes very near to each other. using a bench press, drill the required holes. use a hacksaw blade to saw thru all the holes, causing the inside piece of metal to fall out. then finish off with a metal file.

i did the below on a 5mm piece of aluminium. the cutout was for a led display for my preamp.

for thinner metals, you might want to check this tutorial.

Click the image to open in full size.

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cheers
garbage
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Old 13th October 2012, 07:51 AM   #25
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80 bucks on ebay in Australia gets you a 10 ton press that knocks holes in 3mm mild steel and no burrs!!
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Old 13th October 2012, 09:20 AM   #26
multi is offline multi  Australia
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There are lots of Chinese made Hydraulic chassis punches on Ebay. about $A150.00
i have found they are very good, not as good as the Japanese hydraulic chassis punches, but they cost $1500.
Phil
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Old 13th October 2012, 12:24 PM   #27
balerit is offline balerit  South Africa
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Old 13th October 2012, 12:39 PM   #28
roline is offline roline  United States
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Greelee hole punches for tubes and stepped drill bits for up to 3/4 inch. The Greelee punch is just a little too small and holes get a final sanding for the sockets to just pop through. I leave a little clearance for thermal expansion when the tubes heat up.
For the tube vent slots I use a jig to hold the axle for the center of the tube in a mill and use a 3/16" 4 flute bit and rotate the top to get the arc needed. Lift the bit, rotate to the new spot, drop the bit and rotate the top plate again.
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Old 13th October 2012, 12:47 PM   #29
SY is offline SY  United States
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Compactron driver to sweep tube outputs? I like your style.
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Old 13th October 2012, 02:16 PM   #30
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I've used punches, verticle mill, and water jet cutting. Lately, I've been toying around with the idea of using carefully formed charges of C-10.

Mark
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