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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norway
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Madrid
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Thanks for the info. Great amp you're building.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norway
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![]() Here is a pictures from the inside with some parts installed: 1: Black Gate filer caps bank 2: Tamura 14VDC heater transformer 3: Brackets for JJ filter caps 4: HEXFRED rectifiers 5: Voltage regulator for 12VDC heater. 6: Socket for soft start relay. 7: IEC 230v input 8: Octal socket for power output (2x6.3VAC, 12VDC, 560VDC, GND) 9: On/Stby LEDs 10: On/Stby switch 11: Power resistors, soft start. 12: Main fuse 13: Terminal strips 14: Stiffening
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Østfold
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I AM SO DEEPLY INSULTED |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Østfold
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Jane,
That is a cool looking amp, how does it sound? Regards, Peter |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Madrid
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Østfold
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I bet the THD is extremely low...
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Hi, I just can't get excited about another version of the 60's commercial amps. Loop NFB, Class AB2 operation...nothing all that special. Sort of like a Heathkit W6M. At least the Heathkits go for about what it would cost to buy the 16431 OPTx for.
May I suggest not selling to the same power hungry folks who will see a bigger number in the SS offerings, and go for instead those who would pay real money for an amp which delivers that which cannot easily be found. Just my opinion, and I am sure it will sound OK. For the money you'll need to charge, I'd expect a bitmore than OK though. cheers, Douglas
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the Tnuctipun will return |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: southern us
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norway
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Quote:
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