Sorry, about that here is the pix...
Previous entry deleted: Thank you Alexg, Curly, and mhouston! I thought, I could get by with the larger tubes in a nice straight line. I guess not. Here is another sketch, I placed the rectifier near the power supply corridor. I'll center the KT88s in front of the OPT, but space them about 2.5in apart. Is this better?...
BTW, what is the power output of this amp with B+ @ 410-420V?...
Previous entry deleted: Thank you Alexg, Curly, and mhouston! I thought, I could get by with the larger tubes in a nice straight line. I guess not. Here is another sketch, I placed the rectifier near the power supply corridor. I'll center the KT88s in front of the OPT, but space them about 2.5in apart. Is this better?...
BTW, what is the power output of this amp with B+ @ 410-420V?...
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Oops. You forgot the sketchOn another note, I meant to say 2.5" between the envelopes pf the tubes, which is a little closer to 4" between the sockets, as Alex stated in his post. Sorry for the confusion!
Wouldn't get to tied down to feet and inches. Make a resonable layout and build it.
also uper 5mA is better 6N1P-EB than 6922/E88CC
Dear Sherman
Wiht 4-5 mA I believe that is better the 6992, 6n23p,e88cc etc.
You have in the 6n1p 8ma
more adapted to obtain the better sound from 6n1p,
better than family 6922,
(in my "Bjou" headamp up 6n1p-eb than Telefunken goldpin diamond base 6922/E88CC)
have CCS, or the change to other C-R-C (15K-C-33k to anode),
it is thus sufficient to obtain a current of 8mA?
Thanks and greetings
Fernan
Escuses by my babelfish inglish translator.
Dear Sherman
Wiht 4-5 mA I believe that is better the 6992, 6n23p,e88cc etc.
You have in the 6n1p 8ma
more adapted to obtain the better sound from 6n1p,
better than family 6922,
(in my "Bjou" headamp up 6n1p-eb than Telefunken goldpin diamond base 6922/E88CC)
have CCS, or the change to other C-R-C (15K-C-33k to anode),
it is thus sufficient to obtain a current of 8mA?
Thanks and greetings
Fernan
Escuses by my babelfish inglish translator.
High voltage PSU filtering
The best possible circuit for high voltage power supply filtering (if no semi-conductors are used or desired) is in this order: Tube Rectifier - Choke - Cap - Choke - Cap. The reason for this is the first choke actually will regulate the voltage significantly without a cap before it while the next best filtering method would follow by the Cap - Choke - Cap.
The best possible circuit for high voltage power supply filtering (if no semi-conductors are used or desired) is in this order: Tube Rectifier - Choke - Cap - Choke - Cap. The reason for this is the first choke actually will regulate the voltage significantly without a cap before it while the next best filtering method would follow by the Cap - Choke - Cap.
Yes, I talked about to this R-C (15K-22uF) and R (33K) towards 6n1p, an this mod, obtain 8-9mA.
Thanks
I really like the look of that amp cryo, there's a touch of class to it. The layout is well balanced (to my eyes, anyhow) and the sloped wooden sides are quite interesting. Did you machine the top panel yourself?
Any chance of a look at the underside?
Thanks for the remarks. Yes, I machined the top myself. After driving myself crazy laying things out on aluminum plate, I got smart and lazy. Made CAD drawings exactly to scale of what I wanted and printed out on plain paper. Then I glued that to the plate and drilled/milled exactly to what was on the print-out. Much easier.
I have a pic of the underside somewhere. I will post it in a few days when I find it, or pop it up and take a new one.
I have a pic of the underside somewhere. I will post it in a few days when I find it, or pop it up and take a new one.
KT88 Bread Board amp with no driver stage.
I think this thread is still about SE KT88s and the like. I just built a SE amp which started with KT88 but found the Back Sable EL34s gave more power and and better frequency response. I wanted to bring back the Bread Board amp (BBAmp said Be Bamp) but wanted it to look more than a science experiment. To this end I used a highly sanded and multi-beeswaxed Australian pine board and hid the wiring. Also the ugly Edor open OPTs were canned which also provided a fixture for the RCAs and speaker binders.
In this build there is no driver stage. I hope there was enough drive from my two stage tube preamp but this failed. So after cathode current and HT+ was increased matched Black Sables EL34s replaced the JJ BLue Glass KT88s to acheive more gain. Also a high performance OPAMP preamp (Prada627) was placed between my upgraded Oppo 980H and tube pre to give sufficient gain and drive. The amp is exceptionly quiet. PS has 100uf cap-10H 200mA choke-100uf cap. The quietest amp I have ever built. No NFB of course.
Through my 91db efficient Osborn Eclipse three ways towers there is plenty of volume. The amp tested 17hz to 47Khz with a 5.6ohm resistive load (speakers are 6ohm). The sound is neutral, very transparent with exceptional blacks.
I think this thread is still about SE KT88s and the like. I just built a SE amp which started with KT88 but found the Back Sable EL34s gave more power and and better frequency response. I wanted to bring back the Bread Board amp (BBAmp said Be Bamp) but wanted it to look more than a science experiment. To this end I used a highly sanded and multi-beeswaxed Australian pine board and hid the wiring. Also the ugly Edor open OPTs were canned which also provided a fixture for the RCAs and speaker binders.
In this build there is no driver stage. I hope there was enough drive from my two stage tube preamp but this failed. So after cathode current and HT+ was increased matched Black Sables EL34s replaced the JJ BLue Glass KT88s to acheive more gain. Also a high performance OPAMP preamp (Prada627) was placed between my upgraded Oppo 980H and tube pre to give sufficient gain and drive. The amp is exceptionly quiet. PS has 100uf cap-10H 200mA choke-100uf cap. The quietest amp I have ever built. No NFB of course.
Through my 91db efficient Osborn Eclipse three ways towers there is plenty of volume. The amp tested 17hz to 47Khz with a 5.6ohm resistive load (speakers are 6ohm). The sound is neutral, very transparent with exceptional blacks.
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Beautiful craftsmanship. very well done. Million dollar base.
Here's a few of my latest SE UL/Triode KT88 offerings. I'm building under the retro-thermionic banner.
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I had recently posted under this thread that I used Black Sables in my Be Bamp. I had to go back to KT88s. Reason being I was pulling about 32 watts RMS from the Sables which would have stuffed them very quickly. I have gone back to the JJ Blue Glass KT88s which can take the 365 volts plate to cathode and the 92mA cathode current.
I have picked up a bit more bottom end and when driving my entire system I can get 25hz into the speakers as a lower 3db point. Even 20hz is quite audible. This has been tested with a function generator at the preamp right through the entire system. Max power is 6W RMS at 1Khz into the speakers which are 6 ohm and bi-wired.
Seeing this is the Mikael Abdellah KT88 thread I must add that this is the third of his style amps that I have built. And for this bread board build I am going to build remote swapable driver stages which will share the PS from the original bread board amp. I will be able to swap in and out different front-end driver stage. DIY decadance.
I have picked up a bit more bottom end and when driving my entire system I can get 25hz into the speakers as a lower 3db point. Even 20hz is quite audible. This has been tested with a function generator at the preamp right through the entire system. Max power is 6W RMS at 1Khz into the speakers which are 6 ohm and bi-wired.
Seeing this is the Mikael Abdellah KT88 thread I must add that this is the third of his style amps that I have built. And for this bread board build I am going to build remote swapable driver stages which will share the PS from the original bread board amp. I will be able to swap in and out different front-end driver stage. DIY decadance.
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I think I have scared every one else away. Anyway I built a remote driver stage for my bread board SE UL KT88. It is the original stage Mikael used. Except in this case I upped the cathode by-pass caps to low ESR 220uf caps which are snubbed with 220nf polies. I used the Russian military caps (0.22uf) for the interstage caps added a 220 ohm grid block resistor and a 470K resistor from grid to ground.I don't use a volume control here.
I built the driver stage in a Tea Box which is lined with bitumanised Al foil. I used a 7 pin plug to carry the 400V and filament voltage. I can now build other driver stages and try them against the power stage.
I built the driver stage in a Tea Box which is lined with bitumanised Al foil. I used a 7 pin plug to carry the 400V and filament voltage. I can now build other driver stages and try them against the power stage.
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retro-thermionic Pinot "KiSharn"
I would hate to see this thread go cold.This is my retro-thermionic Pinot "KiSharn" for which I am very proud. The best amp I have ever built. I don't think I have posted it on this site but if I have - forgive me. This is a two stage SE amp a true SET.
The amp is small and based on the 6AS7 tube for which now I have a lot of respect. The tube is also badged the 6080. The driver is a 40 year old Australian made AWA 12AX7 and the rec. tube a rare JAN CBXL-5R4GY brown base.
Once more the amp base is Mirbeu. I sprayed the top plate blue to match the Edcor OPTS. No input caps but the inter-stage caps are the same as used on my Twinnings Tea box preamp - Jensen pure copper, paper and oil.
There is two ferrite chokes on the power cord plus a complete power filter under the bonnett. The PS is tube rectified and choked. The power tube is a Svetlana "Winged C". Low ESR caps and a mix of carbon and metal oxide resistors are used.
Though only a 3W output this baby goes 12hz to 50khz on -3db points. Bass is weighty and deep and mids are detailed and heavily textured.
I would hate to see this thread go cold.This is my retro-thermionic Pinot "KiSharn" for which I am very proud. The best amp I have ever built. I don't think I have posted it on this site but if I have - forgive me. This is a two stage SE amp a true SET.
The amp is small and based on the 6AS7 tube for which now I have a lot of respect. The tube is also badged the 6080. The driver is a 40 year old Australian made AWA 12AX7 and the rec. tube a rare JAN CBXL-5R4GY brown base.
Once more the amp base is Mirbeu. I sprayed the top plate blue to match the Edcor OPTS. No input caps but the inter-stage caps are the same as used on my Twinnings Tea box preamp - Jensen pure copper, paper and oil.
There is two ferrite chokes on the power cord plus a complete power filter under the bonnett. The PS is tube rectified and choked. The power tube is a Svetlana "Winged C". Low ESR caps and a mix of carbon and metal oxide resistors are used.
Though only a 3W output this baby goes 12hz to 50khz on -3db points. Bass is weighty and deep and mids are detailed and heavily textured.
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Which schematic is better?
There's the original schematic of Mikael Abdellah Single-Ended (SE) KT88 / 6550 Tube Amplifier Schematic and there an other one KT88 Single Ended (SE) Tube Amplifier using a 5H inductor between the 400V + and the GN1P tube. Is that an upgrate? How much rate "rate" need this choke... 0.02A???
Thank you.
There's the original schematic of Mikael Abdellah Single-Ended (SE) KT88 / 6550 Tube Amplifier Schematic and there an other one KT88 Single Ended (SE) Tube Amplifier using a 5H inductor between the 400V + and the GN1P tube. Is that an upgrate? How much rate "rate" need this choke... 0.02A???
Thank you.
Each channel of the 6N1P draws about 4mA, so the 0.02A choke would be fine. I used a Hammond 155H, one for each channel. Many folks did not use the choke in their build, but I believe it can provide better filtering in conjunction with the 10uF capacitor.
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Choked PS(s) in both SS and tube amps will always sound better. This is not just my belief but also that of some very well known amp builders. Try Hugh Dean to start with.
Most try to drop the choke because of cost, weight, chassis realestate and even looks. But some very pricy preamps etc. come choked. Then there is tube rectification. But that's another thread.
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