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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
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any ideas? its the steal cap on top of the tube has come off. the
wire is still on the tube could it be soldered. thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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you must clean that "top pin"with knife or razor,and you can solder it.
use also some sort of glue resistent to temperature ,to fix cap .
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my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery;I'm dumb
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
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whats a good glue?
crazzy glue? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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I'm too far from you to know any commercial brand in Canada,but if I say "liquid metal" or two-component glue with metal particles ,you'll know
look at auto part shops in case that price of glue is more than one 807 , don't dispare-you can always use that glue for something else
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery;I'm dumb
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Midwest Madman
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Hi,
I have used believe it or not, High quality Cyanoacrylate glue to tighten up bases on several tubes. You can get it in many different viscosities at most really good hobby shops, It works well bonding metal to glass provided its not stressed excessively. If its a cap that just has a minor wiggle, You should use the fine penetrating formula, Press the cap firmly to the glass, Wick it in and allow it to dry completely. They do sell an accelerator but I don't generally use it as it tends to weaken the bond. Though It cures instantly when used in this fashion. Temperature is an issue. Though most Cyanoacrylate are not high temperature, I have even used it to bond parts to model aircraft engines and those generally exceed 300 Degrees F. gene |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: MI
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Some reported they use high-temp silicon to re-glue due to the high heat.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Macedon NY
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I use silicone RTV - sticks to glass nicely. I would clean off the solder on the cap, then depress the center with a punch, making a "cup" around the hole. Glue it on, and be sure the wire is poking through. Solder it tomorrow when it's set.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Quote:
LordCo Auto Parts and Pricess Auto (both in Canada) has it. Don't remember the name, but it's about $10. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Portland OR
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I've re-attached the top cap on several of my 1624's (directly heated version of the 807).
Like mentioned below, carefully scrape the oxide from the wire, concentrating on the end where you will be soldering. For glue I used J-B Weld, an metal loaded epoxy that is rated for tempretures up to 300C. Place a small amount of the epoxy on the glass where the wire comes out the top of the tube and a small amount of the epoxy inside the top cap. Place the top cap over the wire and glass taking care not go get the epoxy on the wire that you have to solder later. Let the epoxy cure for a day before soldering the wire back to the top cap. This has worked very well for the tubes I've repaired. 2 of the tubes have many hundred hours of use after the repair and all is good. Gary |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
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ok thanks
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