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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: US
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So, being on the verge of completing Kuei's phono preamplifier (just fried a resistor, so I'm awaiting some new ones) and not being one to want to wait long periods between projects, I wanted to start soliciting recommendations for a new amplifier.
I have a Bottlehead Kit SET 2A3, which I like a lot, but having never heard a push pull tube amp in my short, sweet life, I thought I'd try to build one of those thingees. And so, the questions begin... I would like to try my hand at a simple, but nice sounding push-pull amplifier. I like the "fewer parts" concept, but I could be compelled to choose a more complex design were it to yield a better sonic result. It looks like KT88s and EL84s are popular valves for push-pull design, but I'm not sure where to begin looking for a simple, relatively cheap (could spend a few bucks for the right design) tube amp design. Now here's where you come in. You're familiar with the drill by now, so this part probably doesn't need further explanation. You recommend things for me to try. I ask stupid questions. You respond thoughfully. I don't get it and ask you to clarify, displaying a level of ignorance you previously thought impossible. You clarify and begin to lose patience. I claim to get it, I try it, it doesn't work, I post another question. You respond.... Ad nauseum until the project is finished, I get a divorce or I run out of money. And beleive me, I would have been divorced already if that were a real option. Clearly, Mrs. Annan is in for the long haul. So... help a brother out, will ya buddy? Yours in relentless ignorance and enduring gratitude, Kofi |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() Got any 6V6s on hand? EL84? ECL82/6BM8? Any will make a fine 5-15W class A or AB PP amp. Tim P.S. SY and your simulpostings again!
__________________
See my Electronics webpage -- the home of Vacuum Tube Drag Racing. The key to being a successful Audiophile: "I reject your reality and substitute my own!" "It's all in your head. So follow your head. Don't bother trying to explain it, because there is no explanation. Likewise, disregard any who try to explain it, because they're most likely way off the mark." - Myself |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Austin, TX
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Keep it simple; you've got enough worries staying out of jail right now. If you don't need scads of power (10W is enough), I'd recommend a simple, classic circuit like Morgan Jones's Bevois Valley (in "Valve Amplifiers"), with push-pull EL84. It's neither exotic nor expensive, but solidly engineered. At a higher power level, I'd look at cloning the Eico HF87, 35W with push-pull EL34.
__________________
"It is not seemly, after wiping your nose, to spread out your handkerchief and peer into it as if pearls and rubies might have fallen out of your head." - Erasmus |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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Here's another one using commonly available stuff, low part count, even an off the shelf chassis. Pictures too.
http://www.electra-print.com/EL84PSA_2.html And Jack at Electra-print is willing to chat if you give him a call. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: MI
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Push-pull 6V6 (or 7C5) triode connected. Do a google search on 'poinzie's audio page'. Killer little 6V6 amp. Drive the amp direct from a source with the 5965 or change the 5965 to a 6SN7 and use a preamp for superior sonics.
Use older Sylvania 6V6GT or believe it the newer GE 6V6GTA (excellent). Stay away from metal 6V6 as they do not sound good. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: USA
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> never heard a push pull tube amp in my short, sweet life
You gotta live with a Williamson for a few years. This and its simpler kin were THE hi-fi once upon a time. They had POWER. A real Williamson (Heath had a nearly-right Williamson) is a good amp. But it will make you appreciate the SET 2A3 too. If what you really want is a more powerful less-sweet SET 2A3, build a push-pull 2A3. If you also decline feedback, and use cathode-bias, you only need a twin-triode (volt-amp, cathodyne) driver. If you use more than 8 resistors, you over-did it. |
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#7 | |||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: US
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Quote:
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What about a KT88 design? Are the EL84s and 6V6s just better? Kofi |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Austin, TX
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KT88 will for sure get you more power. But they're 6dB more expensive than EL34 for 3dB more power (that doesn't include extra iron expenses). 3dB more power is BARELY discernable.
__________________
"It is not seemly, after wiping your nose, to spread out your handkerchief and peer into it as if pearls and rubies might have fallen out of your head." - Erasmus |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Dallas,TX
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Quote:
John |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Kofi,
Sounds like the amp in this thread would be right up your alley: Cathode Feedback from Secondary for PP Amp Yves and Gingertube's amp has received thumbs up from quite a few people. I've been thinking about incorporating Thorsten's phono stage directly into it for a full function integrated amp. Built with Hammond iron it'd be really reasonable, cost wise. BTW, love your posts here and love your work at the UN, can you swing it so I can get a ride in one of those mega-cool black helicopters? That'd be sweet.
__________________
My religion is the golden rule. The only time it's forsaken me is when I've forsaken it first. |
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