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| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: hamilton,ontario
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what would be the best material for mounting tubes sideways?
thank's |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Adelaide South Oz
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Look in your local phone book for Aluminium supplier and then visit their sales office - they often have a bin of off cuts of various angle sections and H sections at very reasonable cost. The angle sections would be ideal for this job.
I visit my local supplier about once every month or so jusy to grab whatever useful off cuts are in the bin. Cheers, Ian |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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This is an ideal place to use perfed aluminum, if you can find someone to bend it. The usual difficulty with side-mounting is ventilation, and perfed material can be a useful aid.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
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a piece of aluminum and a "angled" piece of metal works fine.
Ok, everything looked fine untill i started to add the wires to ground (my first p2p-work) |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Please tell me that the heater wiring isn't that red/black twisted pair that goes straight through the audio wiring.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Northern California
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Many tubes do not like to be mounted sideways. Vertical up or vertical down is fine.
Cyclotronguy |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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It is true that some tubes do not like being mounted sideways. The small signal types shown in the picture are fine. In general most indirectly heated tubes can be mounted in any position. Directly heated tubes like the 300B, 2A3, and 45, do not like this. Operating these tubes on their side will cause the filament to sag when it gets hot, shortening its life. In extreme cases it can touch the grid leading to all sorts of unplesant things. Mercury vapor rectifiers don't like being on their side either. The data sheet for each individual tube type (found in a tube manual, or on the net) will usually explain the allowable mounting positions.
I have found that some extruded aluminum scrap from a construction crew that finishes out the interiors of office buildings is quite useful for mounting tube sockets. It punches well with a Greenlee punch. It also makes good heat sinks for power transistors up to about 15 watts dissipation. This stuff is normally used as the top cap for short interior walls.
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Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
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Quote:
But how the h**l can one keep the wires away when you have to get the tubes heated? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Heater wiring goes in first and is best done with solid core wire (stays in place better). It doesn't need to be very thick for small-signal valves, so it's easy to push it into the corners of the chassis. It should never float in the open air.
However, I doubt that your "strange high-pitch pulsing sound" is due to heater wiring. It's more likely to be due to a wire (or component) from the output going near to an input wire.
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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