• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Looking for Mikael's KT88 Schematic

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Thanks Mikael, I thought this might be the reason, less is better sometimes.
I was just listening to my amp (just finished it), and it sounds wonderful! Thank you so much for sharing the design. I built a stereo version for expense reasons.
I've added the switch for UL, Triode, Pentode selection. Boy, big increase in power output in Pentode mode!

Is it just me, or do the power tubes run hot :hot: The rectifier is cooler than the power tubes :)
I'm more familiar with push pull designs, so I assume it's because the single tube runs full power all the time. Does anyone run forced air cooling, or is convection enough for this application? I was thinking that I could add a small power supply type fan pulling air into the base that the amp is mounted to. This way it would force air out of the cooling holes around the power and rectifier tubes.

I'm also glad I have 25W power resistors on the cathodes of the power tubes. They get quite warm, even though I calculated the dissipation at around 5 watts.

Glenn
 
Okay, I just finished this amp (stereo version), so I thought I'd post a few pictures (amp porn).
Thanks to Mikael for posting this design in the first place, and to everyone that was patient enough to put up with all my questions.
I'm VERY happy with the sound of a SE amp, I'm used of building PP designs. No crossover distortion with the SE :)
This design also gives me a great platform for tweaking here and ther to see what effect it has on sound. It's pretty "punchy" with the EL34's in there vs the KT88's. I'm going to order some JJ 6L6GC's to also try.
Now I just have to dig out my Altec A7 VOC's to give the amp a proper voice ;)
Thanks again to all.
Happy New Year!
Glenn

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
I'm trying to calculate bias for the EL34 tubes I'm currently (Ha) listening to.
It's been a while since I've done this, so I had a few questions on where to measure voltages from for calculations.
Is the plate voltage measured with respect to ground or to the cathode of the tube? Do I use the B+ measurement in the calculation, or the plate voltage?
I'm using the calculator at:
Weber bias calculator

In UL mode I get:
pin #3-8 375v
pin #5-8 -29.8v
pin #4-8 378v
pin#8-GND 30.4v
B+ is 418v (a bit higher this morning)

In Triode mode I get:
pin #3-8 376v
pin #5-8 -29.4v
pin #4-8 376v
pin#8-GND 30v
B+ is 418v

In Pentode mode I get:
pin #3-8 374v
pin #5-8 -30.2v
pin #4-8 382v
pin#8-GND 30.6v
B+ is 414v (dropped a little on this measurement)

I'm using the standard 470R bias resistor called for on the schematic.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Glenn
 
No one?
I'm just questioning if I should use the actual plate voltage (plate to cathode) or the actual B+ (plate to chassis). According to the calculator at Weber's web site, it's the actual plate voltage.
I'm currently running EL34's in UL and using the calculator I get 23 watts and 63mA, so this is just under the rated 25 watts for the EL34.
I just want to make sure it's the actual plate voltage used in the calculation.
Thanks
Glenn
 
Depanatoru said:
You have to use the voltage between plate and cathode . It's the plate voltage to ground minus cathode resistor voltage.
In fact it's simply the Ohm's law , tube power dissipation (W) = voltage across the tube ( plate to cathode ) (V) x plate current (A) .

That's what I thought, I was measuring from plate to cathode.
Looks like I'm just within the limits for the EL34. Probably won't last too long at that bias point. It does sound good though!
Thank you :)

Glenn
 
The silliest thing to do would be to add plate-to-plate feedback to this driver. It will heavily increase distorton due to the lowZ load on the driver. If you for some reason still want to try, LEDs in the cathode circuit is also totally useless. Must be an unbypassed resistor to help things up. Unfortunately triodes and plate-to-plate does not go together very well. Best done with a potent pentode driver.

If you want lower Zout instead of the very high 4ohms of the UL version you should use cathode feedback over the outputwinding as George suggests.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.