Hi everyone,
I'm about to start building the 1626 Darling amp as described here;
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/1965/darling.html
However I notice that the plate voltage is specified as 265v whereas on the Duncanamp tube locator page the maximum plate voltage is specified as 250v.
Is the 15v a small enough amount that it can be safely ignored, does the amp work better with a increase in voltage or does the extra 15v fall into a voltage black hole?
(I've certainly had a few projects fall into a variety of black holes in the past).
Or am I completely mis-interpreting the whole thing?
Any info greatly appreciated,
Myles
I'm about to start building the 1626 Darling amp as described here;
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/1965/darling.html
However I notice that the plate voltage is specified as 265v whereas on the Duncanamp tube locator page the maximum plate voltage is specified as 250v.
Is the 15v a small enough amount that it can be safely ignored, does the amp work better with a increase in voltage or does the extra 15v fall into a voltage black hole?
(I've certainly had a few projects fall into a variety of black holes in the past).
Or am I completely mis-interpreting the whole thing?
Any info greatly appreciated,
Myles
Hi,
I was given a DIY Darling amp some years ago by a friend who has left the country and is not contactable. Its a fantastic sounding amp with only 3/4 watts, but sounds very big. I would like to know if anyone has the schematics and also what the nos. are on the driver tubes? My driver tubes are quite old but have no nos. imprinted on them. Can anyone tell me what nos. they are? Any help will be deeply appreciated.
kindly,
Henry
I was given a DIY Darling amp some years ago by a friend who has left the country and is not contactable. Its a fantastic sounding amp with only 3/4 watts, but sounds very big. I would like to know if anyone has the schematics and also what the nos. are on the driver tubes? My driver tubes are quite old but have no nos. imprinted on them. Can anyone tell me what nos. they are? Any help will be deeply appreciated.
kindly,
Henry
Hi Henry,
There is information all over the place for the Darling and DC Darling. Have you tried googling?
Here is a link to the Darling page:
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/1965/darling.html
The driver in a darling whether dc or ac coupled is usually an 8532 and the output tube a 1626. These are both old US industrial types and are fairly common here last time I checked. May not be the case in your neck of the woods.
I would contact Jim McShane (on diyaudio) and see if he can help you secure the required replacements.
There is information all over the place for the Darling and DC Darling. Have you tried googling?
Here is a link to the Darling page:
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/1965/darling.html
The driver in a darling whether dc or ac coupled is usually an 8532 and the output tube a 1626. These are both old US industrial types and are fairly common here last time I checked. May not be the case in your neck of the woods.
I would contact Jim McShane (on diyaudio) and see if he can help you secure the required replacements.
Thanks Kevin,
Yes, how silly of me...I googled and found really useful info on some pages. Strange though...my darling has a rectifying tube (5y3) while I noticed most Darlings built by others use a silicon diaode for rectifying... any difference in the sound quality?...
cheers and thanks again,
Henry
Yes, how silly of me...I googled and found really useful info on some pages. Strange though...my darling has a rectifying tube (5y3) while I noticed most Darlings built by others use a silicon diaode for rectifying... any difference in the sound quality?...
cheers and thanks again,
Henry
5y3 rectified Darling..?
I am about to build my 1st tube amp & a Darling I am about to build. I can not find a schematic with a tube rectified version. Does anyone know were to locate one or have a schematic of a adjusted PS for one of the published schematics..? I much prefer tube rectification on my tube amps, plus I have LOTS of 5y3. Thanks..
I am about to build my 1st tube amp & a Darling I am about to build. I can not find a schematic with a tube rectified version. Does anyone know were to locate one or have a schematic of a adjusted PS for one of the published schematics..? I much prefer tube rectification on my tube amps, plus I have LOTS of 5y3. Thanks..
Kevin,
I'm going to use a 5Y3-GT in my Darling, choke input, and will be utilizing NTC inrush limiters in the PS . I read about many using a standby switch on the B+ to warm up the filaments. Would you suggest utilizing this in a Darling using the 5Y3-GT? I've got everything worked out, but a standby switch or some other delay is the only thing I haven't decided on.
I'm going to use a 5Y3-GT in my Darling, choke input, and will be utilizing NTC inrush limiters in the PS . I read about many using a standby switch on the B+ to warm up the filaments. Would you suggest utilizing this in a Darling using the 5Y3-GT? I've got everything worked out, but a standby switch or some other delay is the only thing I haven't decided on.
Hi all Darling owners,
As I mentioned my Amp was built with a rectifying tube although I am now using a 5Y3, I have tried other tubes as well... 5U4, R3 and GZ 32 or 34 The tones vary and you can try it out to suit your taste. My amp was also built as an integrated unit with 2 CD and aux imputs at the back. Being integrated also adds more power. It can handel the less efficient speakers with ease. Though I now play it through a pair of 8"SABA green cones which I hacked from a German radio. I will try to get the scans and post it to you guys. Thanks for all your help.
happy listening
Henry
As I mentioned my Amp was built with a rectifying tube although I am now using a 5Y3, I have tried other tubes as well... 5U4, R3 and GZ 32 or 34 The tones vary and you can try it out to suit your taste. My amp was also built as an integrated unit with 2 CD and aux imputs at the back. Being integrated also adds more power. It can handel the less efficient speakers with ease. Though I now play it through a pair of 8"SABA green cones which I hacked from a German radio. I will try to get the scans and post it to you guys. Thanks for all your help.
happy listening
Henry
I don't see how being an integrated changes the output power at all. The only way to do that is to add additional output tubes in parallel. A single output tube per channel is still good for about 0.75Wrms. Certainly makes it convenient for a small system like an office or bedroom..
The Saba green cone is quite efficient iirc - connect this amplifier to the typical 84dBSpl@1W/1M and the performance will be pretty disappointing.
I am sure there are lots of people who would like to see the schematic of your version. Plenty of people around here seem to build them with either 5Y3 or 6BY5 rectifiers.
The Saba green cone is quite efficient iirc - connect this amplifier to the typical 84dBSpl@1W/1M and the performance will be pretty disappointing.
I am sure there are lots of people who would like to see the schematic of your version. Plenty of people around here seem to build them with either 5Y3 or 6BY5 rectifiers.
Hi Kevin,
I agree playing speakers with 84db sucks. What I meant by less efficient one are those with 90db or higher. I am so used to playing horns on a vintage JBL setup with 105db anything less is less efficient. I compared my amp with a standard non integrated one, mine seems to play a lot louder at lower level volume settings. Although I have a main gain control built in other than the volume control and there is also a selector switch for the various inputs.
cheers,
Henry
I agree playing speakers with 84db sucks. What I meant by less efficient one are those with 90db or higher. I am so used to playing horns on a vintage JBL setup with 105db anything less is less efficient. I compared my amp with a standard non integrated one, mine seems to play a lot louder at lower level volume settings. Although I have a main gain control built in other than the volume control and there is also a selector switch for the various inputs.
cheers,
Henry
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