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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Denmark
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Hello
I just got 2 chokes 10H 300mA 50 Ohm and 2 mail trafoes 330VAC 300mA ( ~ 400 VDC with solid state rectifiers ) + 70VAC 25mA (bias) + 6,3V 5A. ( under 80 USD brand new ) I think this is OK for a SE KT88 mono amplifier, but I need a schematic. Can You help me with that. Regards Benny |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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I just did a search for KT88 SE (exact phrase) in the "Tubes" forum and came up with 21 results. Please search before starting a new thread...
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sweden
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Since I've got new IP for my server a couple of times, the links I've posted to my schematics doesn't work anymore. Here is the new URL: http://81.224.66.34/se_kt88.gif
Should work for you. I think you should be able to use it for starters and modify it for your needs. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Denmark
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Thanks Mikael
That was what I want. I got 400 VDC from the power trafo. I can see that the current is under 100 mA. Do You know the exact current? How does it sound? Regards Benny |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sweden
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I think the draw was about 75mA. The sound is really wonderful with very detailed highs and a lots of dynamic and warm bass. The project has been on hold for over a year now, but I hope to finnish it in the next year. No point in rushing things
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chicago area
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Quote:
I can vouch for Mikael's design! I built it as a pair of monoblock power amps rather than integrated and it sounds great. It is simple to build and it appears you have the parts. Mine are biased at 75mA with a B+ of ~400V. (I used tube rectification but with your trafos I think you'll have to go SS to get the 400V.) The only issue I've had was some oscillation on a particular piece of music. I think I've cured that by following the advice of analog_sa and decoupling the PS ahead of the input tube.
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--Sherman |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: searching...
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Mikael,
Just one question sir about the cathode resistor (470R/25W), I can't seem to find a source for such a high wattage resistor locally. Can I use 3 pcs of 1500R/10W in parallel? Are there any special considerations for this resistor? I mean should it be a certain type such as those non-inductive types? Please bear with me.... Thanks! JojoD |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sweden
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There's really no need for 25W. The actual power running through the resistor is closer to 5, but when i tried with 15W it got awfully hot so I put in a 25W instead. It's a regular wirewound kind since low inductive metal film types aren't available at those power ratings. I could send you a pair of 470R/25W if you want. Just let me know. We enthusiasts and diy:ers gotta stick together
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#9 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: searching...
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Mikael,
Thanks very much for the kind offer! I will first see if the other parts can be sourced here locally. I already have some 6N1P tubes here and will also have access to the KT88 tubes soon. Thank you and will keep you guys posted. JojoD |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lisboa
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Hmm... would this be enough for using in the car with Hertz 91dB 2-way speakers? i already have a sand powered sub in there.
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