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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: A bloke from Stoke
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I Hope this comes out OK, I've attached a schematic I've drawn up, first attempt at putting up a file, bear with me
Schematic is of the phono amp I'm using, before it is S&B mc Tx, after is S&B TVC. Problem is it's pretty cr*p. Lots of noise and hum probably from the valve rectifier/ regulator. Bass is so so and the amp seems to me to be losing some clarity. Measuring the voltages looks as if the first tube is pulling about 0.8mA and the second tube about 1.5mA. Any ideas how to improve this or should I junk the circuit and use the very pretty case and build KYW's El Cheapo valve amp into it? regards Kev |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Richmond CA
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El Cheapo or some other passive RIAA would probably be much better than what you have, which is the usual tube active feedback RIAA, but you would still have the PS hum to deal with. I actually use tube active RIAA but with SS CCS/mu follower and a much lower impedance feedback network, but the passive RIAA is simpler and easier to build. There's also the EAR834 circuit which you can find after some searches.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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I don't really know the tube types but looking at the resistor values they seem quite incapable of driving a TX102. A line stage appears essential. A fresh start is probably the best suggestion.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Colorado
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I finally gave-up on tube phono stages and built a wonderful
sounding Pearl. It is fed through a tube pre and amp, and I think that's the best way to get a clean signal from the record and the advantages of tube amplification. The only tube phono stage I would try is Kimmel's hybrid stage you can find on the welbornelabs site. Michael |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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I'm glad you said your circuit isn't terribly good...
Valve RIAA stages can be very good. But not done like that. As Nuvistor says, active RIAA needs a lower impedance network driven from a lower impedance. Personally, I'm not wild about active RIAA, and prefer passive RIAA. Even better, split the equalisation over three stages so that 75/3.18 is done between 1st and 2nd stage, then 3180/318 between 2nd and 3rd stages. And, as you've discovered, you need a squeaky clean HT supply and DC on the heaters to eliminate hum. You probably want to drive a bit more current through those 6N3P valves too (>5mA would be nice)... The S&B volume control needs to be driven from a source with a low output resistance. Think cathode follower or mu-follower.
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: A bloke from Stoke
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Sorry, I didn't make it clear. This is a commercial product that I bought as a stopgap while I decide on what and how to build the mc, phonostage and TVC into one case.
I bought the amp 2nd hand expecting it to be at least useable now I can't for shame bring myself to pass it on to someone else before I do something with it. So far I've done the obvious, re-routing the signal leads, screening the psu as far as possible, adding extra capacitance to smooth the 6V and 235V rails. I realised the circuit is pretty crap when I drew it out. I think the major problem is the output impedance. I think next stage is to rip out the valve power supply and install a ss bridge and a simple rc smoothing circuit. After that I would like to do something to try to keep the phono circuit but as I said in my first post I may completely renew this with a passive phono. I don't have the ability to design circuits, I've just ordered Morgan Jones book to try to learn more. That's why I asked the question if there is anything i can do with the circuit as it stands before I go to the lengths of rewiring it into a passive stage. BTW the case is really pretty, looks fantastic Kevin |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Richmond CA
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I think you're on the right track, but why remove the valve rectifier if it's working now? An SS rectifier won't improve hum or noise, and the valve rectifier provides a turn-on delay for B+, however you will have more B+ so you can use a larger R. I think you'll find at least RCRC is needed for low hum anyway.
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#8 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
![]() dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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If there's enough room for a buffer between the output of the second tube and the RIAA network that will improve things from dreadful to merely mediocre with some trimming of the network values. Take a look at the old Audio Research SP6B to see what I mean.
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If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from? |
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#10 | ||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth where censorship of Ideas is frowned upon
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Konnichiwa,
Quote:
For the rest, the circuit you show CAN be improved, Allan Wright did a lot of work on that, I added another little trick or two, but ultimatly the potential of this circuit is comparably limited. With that said, gutting the case and building the "Valve El Cheapo" is a good option. ANd the El Cheapo will DEFINITLY drive the TX-102 (it was after all designed for that job!). Quote:
If you want to go "noise hunting", first you need get a 'scope and learn how to use it (the cheapest Velleman Digital 'scope is surprisingly usefull, I bought one as stopgap after my old 20MHz Philips dies, but for most audio work it is just dandy. Then you can track the noise sources down and eliminate them, bump up the current, make some component and circuit changes and so on. But it is as much work, or in some ways more, than a complete re-build. Sayonara |
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