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Old 16th April 2005, 11:13 PM   #1
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Question ECC88 - upgrading from Teonex - Help ?

Hi there...newbie - really looking forward to this forum (only found it tonight by chance)

I'm somewhat confused about upgrading valves. I'm a power / automation / controls engineer by profession so the technicalities don't blind me, but I'm just not familiar with the ECC88.

I have some money to burn for new valves in my Musical Fidelity CD-T (CD Player) The current valves are Teonex ECC88.

I am looking at:-

1) Phillips PCC88
2) Phillips 6922 / E88CC
3) Brimar ECC88
4) Russian Military Grade E88CC (6H23N-EB)
5) Tesla E88CC (Gold)

or...

6) Something you might suggest !

In looking at them all, I see huge differences in the construction and finish, but frankly the CD player just uses them as a buffer.

Any advice. ?

Is the expense worth it for a class A buffer ? Which ones would you recommend from my selection ?

What do you recommend from your experience and where would this fit in relation to the ones I have in mind ?

FYI - I am able to get these (I'm looking at them now in fact) from
14 (Phillips) to 22/pair (Russian)

Many thanks for your help !

STEVE
UK
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Old 16th April 2005, 11:27 PM   #2
SY is offline SY  United States
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The reality is that it probably doesn't make much difference in this application. But experimenting is cheap and easy. I haven't checked the data sheet, but from the number, I'd guess that PCC88 takes a different heater voltage so won't be a drop-in.
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Old 17th April 2005, 07:04 AM   #3
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Default Re: ECC88 - upgrading from Teonex - Help ?

Quote:
Originally posted by clubsport911
Any advice. ?
Some of the NOS ones get better reviews than the stock Russian tubes, but once they are cryo treated the combination of sonics & low microphony make them my choice -- that and that they are cheap... i got my last batch of 8 for $28 USD including postage (from Gintaras @ kwtubes in Lithuania). These often come labeled as 6922s as well.

dave
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Old 17th April 2005, 08:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
I'd guess that PCC88 takes a different heater voltage so won't be a drop-in.
I'd worked this one out late last night so I'd sort of eliminated that one myself

One thing I have noticed, is that the "getter" varies hugely

Flat - sold
Solid - domed
Ring - hollow

Any thoughts on what is "best" ?

I am looking for low noise, but i have devised a way to stop my valves ringing using grommets so the microphony is not so critical (+ the CD is remote from the speakers)

Rgds
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Old 17th April 2005, 11:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
I haven't checked the data sheet, but from the number, I'd guess that PCC88 takes a different heater voltage so won't be a drop-in.
Indeed, but I've done already and ... there are more differences between various brands that between some ECC / PCC 88.
Beleive or not, even E/PCC189 can be substitued for with success
Not always ! Perhaps, low level stages are more tolerents.
Try and listen, no risks exept a good surprise

Yves
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Old 17th April 2005, 11:40 AM   #6
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I'am using Miniwatt PCC88 in place of ECC88's. Absolutely no issues with them working. I expect longer life with running them at lower heaters. I find them the best I have tried in my preamp, balanced yet powerful bottom end.
Tried Mullard ECC88, found them much to soft sounding. Very old valve sounding.
Tried Sovteck 6922's good but brighter on the top end than the others.
Suprisingly I still have the old tubes from my MF X10D, which I guess might be the same as those used in the CD-T (always wanted one of those CD player from the first second I heard it, got the X10D as a compromise), they sound some of the most neutral ECC88's I have listened to, though not as good on the bass as the Miniwatt PCC88's. Might be worth sticking with them and sourcing replacements from MF.

To be honest they each have very subtle differences which will sink into the background in a day or two. Might not be worth the effort of doing anything unless you absolutely have to.

Just some thoughts.

Shoog
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Old 17th April 2005, 12:14 PM   #7
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It's a buffer. It's high level. Microphonics and noise will not be serious issues except for a defective tube.
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Old 17th April 2005, 01:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
(always wanted one of those CD player from the first second I heard it, got the X10D as a compromise),
Surely, all that distortion ? I love my CD-t to bits- it had some nice little tweeks that keep taking it higher and higher.

Anyhow thanks for all this advice...

I suppose, I ought to opt for the ones that have the best looking construction ? The Russian valves (6N23P) seem to have that in spades ! Much beefier.

Any other thoughts most welcome.

Steve
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Old 7th October 2007, 04:04 PM   #9
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Default MF CD-T valve replacement

Hi Steve, hope you're still out there!
Looking at your thread from a couple of years ago re replacement valves for the MF CD-T.
Mine has been faultless for 15 years until now and it sounds like it is playing through mud!!! Sort of a portable stereo that is running out of batteries!
It has been suggested that one of the valves has packed up, although both still glow. Anyway, I am looking to replace them and was wondering what the outcome of your thread was and which valves you went for.

Also, you mentioned some tweaks on the CD-T, improving the sound.....I am intrigued to know what they were!

Regards,
Paul
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Old 7th October 2007, 05:58 PM   #10
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I prefer soviet 6N1P EB in my SE amp's driver stage. On second comes (with this amp) Tesla's e88cc. Tesla is clear sounding and feels more natural than the 6n1p but 6n1p has more "grain" in sound and has more&deeper bass response. In fact I use the Tesla in my DAC..
The other brands I've dried are not in the same level with these two.
Only my opinion, no flames!!!
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