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Old 14th March 2005, 10:48 PM   #1
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Default socket mounting depth

I recieved all my parts for my first tube amp , however being a tenderfoot I jumped the gun and ordered a t6061 aluminum chasis that is .160 " Thats right that is no misprint. The OPT(2) is the monster hammond 1627se. The 2a3 sockets are Azuma 4 pin 2/32 " in depth.
needless to say when mounted underneath they are far from the being flush. Besides top mounting any advice? should I get a different chasis > I was never realy sure what a good gauge chasis would be .



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Old 15th March 2005, 05:18 AM   #2
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These imperial measurements are confusing me...

As long as the chassis can hold up all the things on top of it reliably, it shouldn't be a problem. Provided the connections can be made, how the sockets are mounted is simply a matter of aestehetics - it is neatest when flush mounted.
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Old 15th March 2005, 07:46 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by audiousername
These imperial measurements are confusing me... :
His chassis is 4 mm thick.

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Old 15th March 2005, 12:13 PM   #4
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Default measurements

The base of the tube would mount 1.6 millimeteters below the top of the chasis.
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Old 15th March 2005, 02:15 PM   #5
Sherman is offline Sherman  United States
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Default Re: socket mounting depth

Quote:
Originally posted by tenderland
...I jumped the gun and ordered a t6061 aluminum chasis that is .160 " ...The OPT(2) is the monster hammond 1627se...
tenderfoot

Tenderfoot,
The only issue is one of aesthetics. If you are happy with the way the sockets look there isn't any technical problem with them not being flush.

If you are not happy with the look you have a couple of choices. First you could grind down the underside of the socket holes as wide as the socket flange (sort of recessing it in reverse to make it flush). The kind of thing is probably best done with a milling machine. Second you could top-mount your sockets (but you may like that look even less). Last you could get a different thickness of aluminum for the top-plate.

I just built a pair of monoblocks using .125" (1/8") 6061 aluminum and the octal sockets I used mounted flush. The strength of 6061 is such that for my chassis size (12" x 12") I could easily stand on it without bending it.
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Old 15th March 2005, 11:52 PM   #6
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Default chasis

Thanks , I can use a die grinder to shallow the chasis a bit , one major negative is I dont think I can easily use chassis punches for socket holes. I know you can drill holes inside the circumference and than use the punches , but this is a pain.
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Old 16th March 2005, 12:11 AM   #7
Sherman is offline Sherman  United States
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Default Re: chasis

Quote:
Originally posted by tenderland
Thanks , I can use a die grinder to shallow the chasis a bit , one major negative is I dont think I can easily use chassis punches for socket holes. I know you can drill holes inside the circumference and than use the punches , but this is a pain.

I used bimetal hole saws to drill the larger holes in my chassis and a step drill for most of the smaller ones. Both worked very well in my drill press. I used 1 1/16, 2" and 2.5" hole saws.

I had to drill one 2" hole with a handheld drill because the "reach" of my drill press was a little short. I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole then put on the 2" hole saw and drilled the big hole. It was surprisingly easy (I used a cordless drill) and the hole ended up round!
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Old 16th March 2005, 01:23 AM   #8
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Good info, I still remember our discusion about running the B+ and heater wires together, I am prototyping now and found that I was shipped 1 incorect cap for powersuply. I would like to do some noise measurements on 2 different chassis configurations and running wires together.
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Old 16th March 2005, 11:44 PM   #9
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may I ask where you guys are getting these Al chassis'? Custom made? Cause I can't find anything near that thick. I got a hammond one that is very thin and has cheap spot welded corners. Its kinda dicey for a 60 lb. amp. Maybe I'll take up mig welding.
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Old 17th March 2005, 12:06 AM   #10
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Default chassis

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