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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California, USA
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In another thread Frank (fdegrove) showed the schematic for a 2A3 based push-pull amplifier, derived from an original created by Triode Dick. I would like to build it, but need to find suitable transformers readily available in the USA. I am asking for assistance from the more experienced tube people.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California, USA
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Stepping backwards, I thought about using the Hammond 1645 as the output transformer.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1608.htm The primary impedance of the Lundahl in Frank’s schematic is 5K6 but the Hammond 1645 has a nominal 5K. Can I use the Hammond 1645? Is any adjustment to component values necessary? Hammond suggests the 1615 for use with the 2A3, but since the price difference is small, I thought that the 1645 would give me more options to re-use it in a future project. Hammond 1615 Audio power: 15 W Primary impedance: 5K Secondary impedance: 4, 8, 16 Max D.C. per side: 100 mA Hammond 1645 Audio power: 30 W Primary impedance: 5K Secondary impedance: 4, 8, 16, 70V Max D.C. per side: 128 mA |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California, USA
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Frank also posted a power supply to use with the proposed amplifier.
Hammond offers one model, the 369AX, that provides a 125-0-125V secondary and a 6.3V, 2A filament winding. Could I use the Hammond 369AX for the power supply? http://www.hammondmfg.com/300series.htm |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California, USA
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Now I need a transformer for the 2A3’s 2.5V, 2.5A requirement. I could not find any readily available. Would anybody have a suggestion?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Buy a cheap 6V toroid, unwind the 6V windings (counting the turns as you go). Using new wire, wind 4 off 1.25V windings. It won't be very many turns, so it's easy to do. Finding 2.5V CT is really hard. If you're feeling posh, you could add an E/S screen, but make sure you don't accidentally create a shorted turn.
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: California, USA
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That is a good idea and I will definitely try that.
Thank you!
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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The 1645 should work- the difference between 5600 and 5000 ohms p-p is totally swamped by the real-world variations in speaker impedance with frequency.
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If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilde
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A much better schema from Dick is the Mupp Amp.
See: http://members.home.nl/triode.dick/2...p_project.html I've also build this amp with the 2A3's from JJ. Guido |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
Both can easily be improved but my choice would still be the original one with the ECC88 paraphase for its sheer musicality. Cheers,
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Frank |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilde
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Have you buiild both amp's Frank? I did. I find the Mupp amp better, the amp has a better bass-response, also a better soundstage, more correct. I recently build a second pair with a C-core with a lamination thickness of 0,05mm. I used top components as Riken Ohm resistors and Mundorf Silverfoil in oil caps. Also completly build with silver wire. I found this amp better than the Big C from Dick. And the Big C is a SE amp. This are off course only my humble expierience .
Guido |
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