• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Anything wrong with this design?

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Please comment. Original design is from jogis-roehrenbude.de But there's too much gain to drive it with a preamp. I stripped the first stage of the original design.

Let me know if this will work.

Thanks a lot!
 

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diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
Hi,

If R1 is meant as a gridstopper it should be positioned as close to the grid of the 6SL7 as possible.

As it is now it will attenuate the incoming signal slightly, I doubt you'd want that.

The B+ voltage probably will have risen a little but that shouldn't be an issue in practice.

Other than that, it should work just fine.

Ideally, that's what I'd do anyway, I'd drive the 6C33-C from a 6SN7GTB in SRPP and ommit the cathode bypass cap if I'd be using a line level preamp with gain to spare.

Cheers, ;)
 
FrancoB said:
Please comment. Original design is from jogis-roehrenbude.de But there's too much gain to drive it with a preamp. I stripped the first stage of the original design.


Too much gain: add attenuator (volume control or fixed divider) or use lower gain tube. 6SN7 was mentioned, that'll work. You'll want a bit more current, so smaller resistors in the SRPP stage will be needed. <Glances around> I'll let someone else figure exactly what values are needed...or pick 'em off something existing... /ducks out of thread

Tim
 
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