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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: athens
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I have 2 tubes 6336 , i want to built something with these tubes, SE OR P-P, please any information about this??? thanks.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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The 6336 is a dual voltage regulator triode, 30W Pa per section, so 60W overall. High gm, low m and low ra. The low m of around 2 point something makes it a little bit hard to drive, though, as does its input capacitance. You can see the data for the 6336A on Frank's here, though I'm not quite sure what the difference between the 6336 and 6336A is (probably heater warmup or something, not sure...)
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Jason |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
What can you do with just a pair of 6336's anyway? They're not easy to put to use. Usually far from matched between triode sections and draw enough current for their heaters alone to make the electricity board stinking rich.... Cheers,
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Frank |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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And let's not mention that joke of a mu. They're fine series regulator tubes, though.
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“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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The way this thread seems to be heading, someone soon will ask to be sent these for 'proper disposal'.
As Frank said, section to section variation can be quite large with these types, so PP operation might be a bit iffy and require careful balancing to prevent DC in the OPT core, but nonetheless someone has made a 6336 PP amp (using a toroidal OPT, no less). But of course, you only have two, so you are left with no spares. OTL is also out of the question since this needs far more valves than you have on hand. Hmm... I suppose you could try using a single 6336 as a stereo SE amp, for about 6W per channel. Something along the lines of the "Scrapbox Challenge" if you have the book Valve Amplifiers. You might need a more substantial driver stage than offered for the "Scrapbox Challenge" (SE 6528) since the 6528 has a much higher m (around 9 or so)
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Jason |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Near Rotterdam
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Hello,
I’m about to fire up the 6336-SE design of Grover Gardner. Do a google-search and find it. He called – after comparing - this design a ‘Baby-845’, which indicated enough about the nice qualities of this tube. Indeed it needs a good drive. And beware that the inrush current of the heater is over twice the nominal 5A/6,3V. So a delay that shorts a resistor of say 0,50 ohm/25W after some seconds can spare fuses. Need a while to report my sonic impression. I visit this forum not frequently. Arjen. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Nice tube - very low plate Z!
Useful for OTL Been done up using the Russian equivalent 6C33C (iirc) which has even lower plate Z and more current capability as PP, SE (Borbely Audio has some iron & a design for it) and as mentioned, OTL. Cool tube. Run it in A2 or AB2, imho. _-_-bear
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_-_-bear http://www.bearlabs.com ...ur feeback please - like/dislike my what I have written? PM/email tnx. -- |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Dallas,TX
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Quote:
John Oh dear, an oxymoron. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: athens
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Thanks a lot , for the responses, and informations.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Indiana USA
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Quote:
Um... why is that? I can't see this from the characteristics... Could you explain further? Lhchen
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The best way to stop rust on transformers is to power them up. |
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