The T-Rex SET Amplifier DIY project - Page 7

VT67 · 27th August 2006, 08:56 PM

I'm also kinda interested in this project. For the last five years now I want to build me a 300B amp, got a lot of parts to do so but up til now I haven't deceided on which concept. I have two sets of 300B's, AVVT and Krone.

Regards

kmtang · 28th August 2006, 01:15 PM

Hi Peter,

Congratulations on your new born T-REX. That's something I want to build next.

Hi GeWa,

Suggest you to build Mono Blocs because it weighs less. The stereo one just way to heavy to flip over for service and modification.

Johnny

sunrise · 17th October 2008, 05:09 AM

no more pic's????

IslandPink · 19th April 2013, 07:24 PM

I recently finished building the shunt-regulated T-Rex power supply for my existing C3m/300B SE amp . I might as well mention it on this (old) thread, as I picked up this discussion on a search when checking comments on the circuit .

Here's my main thread -
audio-talk :: View topic - Future plan for 300B XLS amp

I did quite a bit of LT Spice analysis when deciding whether or not to build .
Starts here : ( long )
audio-talk :: View topic - Valve Shunt Regulator Design Walk-Through

Overall it's been well worth the effort . It definitely beats the Series-regulated supply I had before . This was a Verdier/Thorsten style circuit with 6080 pass tubes and EF86 error amp , but with a substantial cLC supply up-front . This in turn was better than the cLCLC passive supply I used to use pre-2008 .

The new TRex supply has slightly better midrange than the series-reg . It has signifcantly better bass tone and bass timing than the series-reg . The whole bottom-end now sounds more like Class A PP , although the fluid and natural SE tone is retained .

Spice sims confirm that most of the AC return current path is through the KT88 cathode by-pass cap : make sure if you build that you put in the best possible cap here - I've just changed to a combination of a 220uF Elna Cerafine, plus an Audyn 2.2uF/100 film-foil cap here . This seems to be the best so far .

27th August 2006, 08:56 PM	#61
VT67 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Belgium	I'm also kinda interested in this project. For the last five years now I want to build me a 300B amp, got a lot of parts to do so but up til now I haven't deceided on which concept. I have two sets of 300B's, AVVT and Krone. Regards __________________ VBITNGC Krell KSA-50 Krell KSA-100MkII

17th October 2008, 05:09 AM	#63
sunrise diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: delta quadrant	no more pic's???? __________________ when you burn it - burn it good

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28th August 2006, 01:15 PM	#62
kmtang diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Vancouver	Hi Peter, Congratulations on your new born T-REX. That's something I want to build next. Hi GeWa, Suggest you to build Mono Blocs because it weighs less. The stereo one just way to heavy to flip over for service and modification. Johnny

19th April 2013, 07:24 PM	#64
IslandPink diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2005	I recently finished building the shunt-regulated T-Rex power supply for my existing C3m/300B SE amp . I might as well mention it on this (old) thread, as I picked up this discussion on a search when checking comments on the circuit . Here's my main thread - audio-talk :: View topic - Future plan for 300B XLS amp I did quite a bit of LT Spice analysis when deciding whether or not to build . Starts here : ( long ) audio-talk :: View topic - Valve Shunt Regulator Design Walk-Through Overall it's been well worth the effort . It definitely beats the Series-regulated supply I had before . This was a Verdier/Thorsten style circuit with 6080 pass tubes and EF86 error amp , but with a substantial cLC supply up-front . This in turn was better than the cLCLC passive supply I used to use pre-2008 . The new TRex supply has slightly better midrange than the series-reg . It has signifcantly better bass tone and bass timing than the series-reg . The whole bottom-end now sounds more like Class A PP , although the fluid and natural SE tone is retained . Spice sims confirm that most of the AC return current path is through the KT88 cathode by-pass cap : make sure if you build that you put in the best possible cap here - I've just changed to a combination of a 220uF Elna Cerafine, plus an Audyn 2.2uF/100 film-foil cap here . This seems to be the best so far .