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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Montreal
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Looks a little busy, and heavy!
you can have anywhere from 4 boxes to 1 box. idealy would be two monos with each their power inside but I don't think you have the iron for that. (2 boxes) Your left with two monos plus single external PS. 3 boxes! My vote. 1 stereo amp plus external PS.. 2 boxes. That Piltron chassis is huge and means the rack/shelf required will have to fight against WAF. And besides, seeing your previous chassis creations I'm sure you can do better. cheers Paul |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Montreal
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I would put the filament supply with the mono blocks that way you will have the ability to have power switches on the monos to turn on the filaments before turning on the B+ on your external power supply.
More steps for power on and power off but better tube life. /Paba |
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#24 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
![]() dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#25 | ||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth where censorship of Ideas is frowned upon
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Konnichiwa,
Quote:
1) Dump the feedback, I calculated it noe, it amounts to 0.375db. In other words, practically NON AT ALL. Much ado in the accompanying article for no effective operation. Saves a resistor and capacitor in the layout. 2) Get the 300B Heater Supply fixed up. There are many approaches, but you might as well get the Modules from Guido Tent and be done. 3) The 5687 SRPP may benefit from some tuning of both heater voltage (lower it to around 5.7V) and from some scaling of the resistor. The 5687 SRPP may very well be owed to the Audio Note Kit One where it is in my view and eperience the greatest sonic liability (apart from 300B Heater Supply), but I remember DO being quite fond of the Kit One.... I'd invest some time there. Now for things that go past the basics and really get chomping. WE Output Connection: Connect a 8.2uF Capacitor of the higest possible quality between 300B Cathode connection and the +B connection of the output transformer. Add around 50 Ohm DCR in series with +B line. This gives around 26db better PSRR at 100Hz, a little more at higher frequencies. It actually works not only for PSU noise but also for any signal induced modulation. In fact I found this so effective that it seems to give most of the benefits of a complex regulated supply for the cost of a single capacitor with NON of the (sonic) drawbacks regulation causes. Easy thing to do on any self bias series feed SE Amp and always a surefire winner. The capacitor beween cathode and OPT +B connection is Ck/Mu where Ck is cathode bypass capacitor and Mu is output valves voltage gain. Use NPV (Nearest Preferred Value) Series bootstrap biasing of driver stage: Connect the cathode resistor of the 300B to the cathode of lower 5687 (or otherwise the driver cathode) instead to ground. Reduce the cathode resistor of the driver until the operating point folds back to what was there before (for T-Rex that would be around 180V on the anode of the lower 5687 looks like 120R would then be ideal for the lower 5687 SRPP Valve) and dump the cathode bypass cap. This steals a little gain (around 1db) and eliminates the cathode bypass cap while actually adding VLF positive feedback compensating for the LF losses caused by undersized 300B Cathode bypass capacitor. Quote:
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Care to co-operate on a kit that uses that particular angle, on a for profit basis? No Plitron Transformers except perhaps mains, 2-Chassis design with a PSU aimed at more or less "universal" operation, active load outputstage with parallel feed output from MQ (TFA2004) or S&B (if I can ever get JB to start design on them something - my bad for getting him to make interesting products - now he has no more time for interesting developments) and some rather interesting ideas on the heater supply side and drivers.... The deal (stated here openly) is one set of (prototypes?) for my use and small donation per unit sold to a charity helping children (my usual "licencing deal"). Sayonara |
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#26 |
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Banned
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Look dave... he's useing them transformers i was going to use and you said sucked... humm... care to change your opinion now ?
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: big smoke
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#28 | ||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth where censorship of Ideas is frowned upon
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Konnichiwa
Quote:
Quote:
I would vote the opposite as better, 2 Dual Mono Powersupplies with one Stereo Signal Chassis wired dual Mono.... Sayonara |
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#29 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I can also make dual channel boxes, but lets say with a possibility of tight ground reference between the left and right channels.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#30 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
If anyone is going to make toroids work as OPTs, it is Menno, his transformers, generally, but not universally, get very good reviews. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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