I'm almost finished gather materials for my SE KT88 monobloc project and am now deciding on the chassis. My plan is to mount everything on aluminum sheet and place that sheet on a base.
It appears that the aluminum sheet will have to be about 11x12" minimum for the layout I've (mostly) decided on.
Would .090" sheet be thick enough or would I be better off going with .125"?
It appears that the aluminum sheet will have to be about 11x12" minimum for the layout I've (mostly) decided on.
Would .090" sheet be thick enough or would I be better off going with .125"?
I have used .125" Aluminum for a 12x13 plate on my Dyna 70 Clone without bracing and had no problem with sagging but the tube sockets come very close to being flush with the plate which made me uneasy, although I have never had any shorting problems.
I would suggest something like .1". How heavy are your trannys?
Pete
I would suggest something like .1". How heavy are your trannys?
Pete
When strength is a concern and motion is not, there is no doubt that bigger is better.
Do you know the alloy? It might be strong enough in the thinner gauge sheet. Since aluminum comes in dozens of alloys, each with it's own structural characteristics, the thickness of the material cannot indicate how strong or rigid it is.
ensen.
Do you know the alloy? It might be strong enough in the thinner gauge sheet. Since aluminum comes in dozens of alloys, each with it's own structural characteristics, the thickness of the material cannot indicate how strong or rigid it is.
ensen.A piece of T6061 aluminum 1/8" thick that size will support the weight of a man. Find a metal dealer in your area and go look at his scraps to find a good plate. It is about 1/3 the price of having them cut you a new sheet. If it is not the right size it is still cheaper to have them cut it for you. If you have a table saw with a carbide blade you can cut it yourself(yes you can cut aluminum on a table saw).
markp said:
Wear ear protectors !
I am in the process of building a modular chasis -- the idea comes from taking apart various HP and Krohn-Hite equipment -- as I have a little milling machine it should be very easy to use 0.093 aluminum sheet for the sides, top and bottom, sliding these into the milled rails:
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markp said:
The sheet I'm looking at is in fact 6061 alloy. I can have it cut to the size I need for no charge but I'm thinking of also getting a larger sheet to have available for future projects so knowing I can cut it with a table saw is nice.
I will get the 1/8" today! (Now I just have to break down and order the iron. Still waffling between Hammond and James OPTs.)
Must add to what Jackinnj said about ear protection. Wear EYE PROTECTION!!!
If you are careful a hand held power saw with a carbide blade can also do a good job on thick aluminum sheet. It is almost amazing how good one can cut 1/2" thick aluminum plate this way.
BTW, I suggest you mill the tube socket holes. This 1/8" aluminum in the harder alloys is very hard on the bolt in draw punches. If you must use a draw punch, use plenty of oil on the bolt threads and also the cutting surfaces of the punch.
If you are careful a hand held power saw with a carbide blade can also do a good job on thick aluminum sheet. It is almost amazing how good one can cut 1/2" thick aluminum plate this way.
BTW, I suggest you mill the tube socket holes. This 1/8" aluminum in the harder alloys is very hard on the bolt in draw punches. If you must use a draw punch, use plenty of oil on the bolt threads and also the cutting surfaces of the punch.
The most common 6061 variation is 6061-T6. This is good enough for non-critical aircraft components and plenty good for something an electronic componentn that never moves. Even if it is not, it is probably more than you need.
As for thickness, .045" or .065" is sufficient, depending on the mechanical design. Take mtn bikes for example...they couldn't use .065" wall tube and keep the weight as low as they do.
Really, I was worried that is was something like 3004-H32 which can be take a pretty good dent if your drop the gear.
ensen.
As for thickness, .045" or .065" is sufficient, depending on the mechanical design. Take mtn bikes for example...they couldn't use .065" wall tube and keep the weight as low as they do.
Really, I was worried that is was something like 3004-H32 which can be take a pretty good dent if your drop the gear.
ensen.rcavictim said:
Excellent advice. Last fall I had (tiny) a piece of metal go into my eye while wearing safety glasses! After having it removed I purchased a pair of complete coverage goggles which I wear whenever I operate a power tool in my shop.
I have been using a unibit to drill socket holes and it works great on thinner material. since each step is 1/8" it should just work on this thicker aluminum though I expect I'll have to touch up the underside.
jackinnj said:
The complete coverage goggles tend to fog up (I also wear eyeglasses under them) more than regular safety glasses but I count that a small price to pay for keeping my vision! Plus it encourages me to stop occasionally and clean them which makes me work a little more slowly and carefully. I might also be able to convince my wife that I need airconditioning in the shop!
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