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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: pennsylvania
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greetings-
how does one test for leaking coupling caps? i have a good fluke DMM, but it does not measure capacitance. the caps are 600v .047, waxed paper in oil, and are at least 44 years old. thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Measure the voltage on the "cold" side. If you apply a couple hundred volts to one end and connect the other end to ground via 100K, you can measure and calculate the leakage current. Take into accout the impedance of your meter.
-Chris |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: pennsylvania
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these are "pyramid" brand, made in usa caps.
i was a bit worried about unsoldering/resoldering them as the leads are quite short, and i read about beeswax caps being vulnerable to heat. i realise that i can always replace these with the "jupiter" beeswax caps, but i am trying (who isnt) to do this on a budget. worst case scenario: i wreck the caps by trying to test them. what type should i replace them with? paper in oil beeswax solen |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, crumbling wasteland
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Orange drop caps will be fine or Solens if you want "audiophile" parts Solens are priced pretty decent.
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#5 | ||
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
Anyway, soldering and unsoldering them shouldn't cause any damage provided you do it the same way as you would with any other cap. Quote:
Cheers,
__________________
Frank |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Simple way to test:
Hook up a 100 to 500V supply (more volts to test to a higher rating on the cap) and connect the capacitor in series with a 1k current-limiting resistor (just in case...) and with a neon lamp. Operation: after the initial turn-on spike which charges the cap (put up a sheet of paper in case the neon lamp blows, large caps may hold more energy than a neon can handle), any leakage will discharge the cap, putting more voltage across the neon. After a while it drops to the firing voltage and the neon fires, charging the capacitor up to the turn-off voltage. A good cap will fire once or twice in a minute, and that includes the first (hookup) pulse. A leaky one will just blink on and on. To find the exact leakage current, I = C * dV/dt, where I is the leakage, C is capacitance, dV is the difference in voltage (measure on a scope; it varies with the neon, its age, how much light or radiation is around, etc.) and dt is the time period of the oscillation ( = 1/f). Tim
__________________
See my Electronics webpage -- the home of Vacuum Tube Drag Racing. The key to being a successful Audiophile: "I reject your reality and substitute my own!" |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi Tim,
That sounds like an evening of fun! It's the right season for it too. -Chris |
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#8 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Earth
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@Frank
I haven’t tried orange drop. Are they better than Solen? What about Audyn (standard series) caps? Or Audyn KP-SN? |
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#9 | ||
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
The major advantages of the Solens used to be that they were about the only ones availble in large values at 200V + voltages. Unfortunately, the suffer from a QC problem that detoriates the sound considerably. Quote:
Cheers,
__________________
Frank |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: pennsylvania
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which orange drop is preferred, 715 or 716 series? or does it depend upon the application?
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