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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: gothenburg
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I need help!
I have bulit a 30W EL34 Push Pull amp (http://www.lundahl.se/pdfs/claus_byr...fier_30wpp.pdf)that I can`t get to work as it should. 1.I`ve got a huge low freq noise in the amplifier. 2.The amplifier gets distorted very early. 3.There is a pulse sounding in the speaker (similar to the sound when you tapping on a microphone). The pulse is linear not random (oscilation?). If I measure with a multimeter on the anod of the EF86 the pulse disapear. If I look at the amplifier in the dark the EL34 blinks blue in time with the pulse. One EL34 at the time. The bias voltage is also pulsing (not stable). I have tried to switch the NFB on the secondary, then the amp really started to oscilate. I have tried drive the amp without NFB that increased the LF noise. All the dc voltage seems to be okay I have an external PS to the amp. All the leads to the amp runs in the same cable (both the high voltage and the AC for the filament) could that have something to do with the LF noise? The Choke in the PS is reversed 180 deg to the maintransformer. Could that cause the LF noise? Please please help me Regards Mattias |
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#2 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Wayne, West Virginia
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Quote:
1. Bad or miss-wired decoupling capacitor, i.e. C4, C3, C12 on the 5-20 schematic. 2. Miss-wired ground wire(s). 3. Bad layout. i.e. using a common ground return path (wire) for all stages of the amplifier to the power supply. The input/driver circuitry should have their own ground wire separate from the output stage ground wiring, connected only at (inside) the power supply ground. The heater supply should have it's own wiring, i.e. not inside the same cable. 16-18ga twisted pair depending on the distance between the amp and PS. Try changing where the spkr ground/secondary connects to ground. Go back and re-read the manual and make sure everything is connected and goes to where it's supposed to go. Quote:
Hope this helps and gives you some ideas where to look! If you haven't read this before, it may help. www.audioxpress.com/resource/audioclass/ Wayne |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Have you built this amplifier with the same components as described in the paper? I'm going to build the same amp but i'm still waiting for some parts.
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Anyway, they stated that there was an oscillation of ~.5 Hz caused by the 470nF caps before the EL34s so they lowered the value of these caps. /Roger |
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#4 | ||||||||
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diyAudio Member
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I tell ya what I would do. I'd trim down the power supply, use only enough resistance to decouple the stages. For the ECC83, instead of a 10k, use 1k. Use 4.7k for the next (supplies the EF86). Or even none for the second - the pentode and dual triode can share the same supply rail. You'll have to rebias the pentode stage (adjust the 390 ohm cathode resistor until plate is around 80V). Oh, and remove the zener diode in the PSU. Tim
__________________
See my Electronics webpage -- the home of Vacuum Tube Drag Racing. The key to being a successful Audiophile: "I reject your reality and substitute my own!" |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: gothenburg
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Thank you so much for your replys!!!
I have grounded all of the components to ne point in the amplifier. This point goes trough the cable to the PS and this is grounded at one point in the PS. The heater wiring has it one wiring but it goes to the PS in the same cable (it`s a cable with 12 leads) as the DC voltage. The cable is about 10 feet long. I will have to take a bite in the sour apple and do some heavy ground rewiring. Thank you so much Wayne. All the components are the same as in the schematics exept for the outputtransformer. I have used a LL1682/PP 5:5500. I use 6ohms speakers that will give me a primary of 6500 ohm. I will check the 470 caps Thank you Nilrog |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: gothenburg
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Hi Sch3mat1c
I will try to redesign the PS (it seems easier than to do the rewiring). I have built a stereopair that is driven by this PS. I have already changed the 10k to 4,7k and the 100k to 47k. Do you think this is enough for two channels? Thank you so much for your help Regards Mattias ps This shure is a great forum with many great brains! |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Tim
__________________
See my Electronics webpage -- the home of Vacuum Tube Drag Racing. The key to being a successful Audiophile: "I reject your reality and substitute my own!" |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Before you go too far in rebuilds etc. - check the following
Your problem is definitely a power supply decoupling problem causing "motorboating" as described in posts above. It may well be C4 or C7 electrolytics. Either the electrolytics are stuffed or you have a dry joint on either the high voltage side or the ground side such that the capacitor is not really connected at all. I had exactly this problem with an EL34 Guitar amp I built. Turned out to be a dry solder joint on the ground side of the electrolytic. Good Luck with your debugging. Cheers Ian |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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Cmon guys, why spoil the wonderful Christmas decorations? This guy will only need help in January. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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I just re-read the posts and had another look at the schematic.
You mentioned that if you put a multimeter probe onto the anode of the EF86 the problem went away. That is when you added the small capacitance of a multimeter probe and lead. There is another possibility - rather than your problem being sub-sonic oscillation (motorboating) due to insufficient decoupling of the power supply it may be that you have the opposite problem i.e. bursts of High frequency oscillation (supersonic) and you are only hearing the "envelope" of this. Check that your 4k7 grid stopper on the EF86 has the body of the resistor as close to the grid pin as the wiring will allow. Also check that you have the EF86 in Triode Mode with the screen properly connected to the anode. Cheers, Ian |
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