What do you guys use to drill holes on chassis?? - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 18th November 2004, 11:40 PM   #11
jlsem is offline jlsem  United States
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Since I only use 1/8" and 3/16" thick aluminum for chassis, hole saws and step drills work just fine. The less run-out your drill press has, the better your results with a step drill. ALWAYS use a cutting fluid specified for aluminum when drilling holes, you won't regret it. I also finish the inside of holes made with a hole saw (1" dia. to 2" dia.) with a small, inexpensive drum sander.

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Old 19th November 2004, 12:34 AM   #12
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I've used uni-bits with good results.
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Old 19th November 2004, 01:08 AM   #13
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I'm lazy. I either use scrap thin ply for protos, or when it's finalised I draw it up and take it to a small metalshop and get them to do it. Look in the yellowpages, there'll be places in most large cities that do large AV and security CCTV installs and will have most connector holepunches and can do the others. I like front panels and top plates out of thick aluminium or brass. It's usually not expensive and you get pro results.
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Old 19th November 2004, 06:51 AM   #14
Enzo is offline Enzo  United States
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In the USA anyway, you can get Greenlees from ANtique Elec. For $30-$45. My Greenlee 1" has been with me now for over 45 years. My 3/4 almost as long, and the 1-1/8 is just a kid at 25 years plus. I think the prices are reasonable for that kind of life.

Antique is www.tubesandmore.com

Also look at W.W.Grainger www.grainger.com
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Old 19th November 2004, 01:23 PM   #15
Fuling is offline Fuling  Sweden
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For some of my more serious projects Ive had help from my brother to cut the holes. He runs a wire EDM at work, and that machine is just perfect for making chassis!
You can cut PERFECT holes in anything from thin aluminium to several inches of hardened steel...
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Old 19th November 2004, 01:33 PM   #16
Coulomb is offline Coulomb  England
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Quote:
Originally posted by Enzo
In the USA anyway, you can get Greenlees from ANtique Elec. For $30-$45. My Greenlee 1" has been with me now for over 45 years. My 3/4 almost as long, and the 1-1/8 is just a kid at 25 years plus. I think the prices are reasonable for that kind of life.

Antique is www.tubesandmore.com

Also look at W.W.Grainger www.grainger.com



www.mcmastercarr.com
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Old 19th November 2004, 01:49 PM   #17
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I'm also fortunate, as mr Fuling above, in that i can call on help from others. I can warmly recommend WATERCUTTING your chassis, it will give you very nice results, without the hassle. My brother-in-law made a top plate from my autocad drawing, out of nice 4mm aluminium.

Rgds
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Old 19th November 2004, 02:09 PM   #18
Fuling is offline Fuling  Sweden
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Nothing beats proper machinery when it comes to cutting round holes.
My brother talked about making a set of hole punches in the right sizes for the most common tube sockets, I guess hes a bit tired of programming that EDM. The way he explained it seemed easy enough to make a few, and he has the skills and tools so why not.
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Old 19th November 2004, 02:58 PM   #19
markp is offline markp  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fuling
Nothing beats proper machinery when it comes to cutting round holes.
My brother talked about making a set of hole punches in the right sizes for the most common tube sockets, I guess hes a bit tired of programming that EDM. The way he explained it seemed easy enough to make a few, and he has the skills and tools so why not.
If you have the access to the hard steel and a machine to form the cutter out of it, it would still be cheaper to buy one. You need a really good roller bearing and a very high grade bolt too.
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Old 19th November 2004, 03:28 PM   #20
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A word about Greenlee punches from a person who has used and abused more than my fair share:

Its easy to let the die slip causing scratches in the chassis.

They really do work best on thin non ferrous metals. Ive found that using them on steel cover plates for 1900 boxes and larger pull boxes is pushing their limits. Lots of oil on the threads and cutting surfaces is advisable. These plates are roughly 1/8" galvanized steel.

If you can find a deal on the Greenlee die holder, its likely worth the money if your planning more than occasional use. It holds both pieces and has a ratchet handle making it less likely to scratch your work piece.

Ive heard good things about Front Panel Express and have a project that I'm dying to try out with them. I have however found the free layout software a little limiting in its capabilities.

A Bridgeport with CNC is my dream too. It would be nice to have it do engraved lettering too.
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