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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Singapore
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hi all
finally wired up the remaining circuit of my breadboard. everything is wired p2p, even the 300b rectified filaments. used my ipod as source and one of my totem model 1 as output. powered up (not the first time, i did checks on voltage and dc on outputs before this) and played a track from bic runga's album. it works!!! there is music... very delighted. really different sound from SS. i listened only for a short while as i know my resistor and regulator needs a larger heatsink (do not want to blow them). measured the 300B anode, it is 605V(3V higher), c3g anode is 180V(10V higher)... i have to tweak the resistors a little. first impressions from one speaker... warm and mellow. no harshness, but there is some humming which went away when i moved the input wire a little. i think the hum and buzz is due to incorrect termination of the input rca ground. this is where i need advice on grounding. where to ground? before or after my switch? i'm going with a conventional single point ground, not sakuma's 2 point ground (due to chassis construction issues) i am also having some problems which i will describe below. my circuit is as follows: ![]() connected to ipod as source: ![]() description of circuit: driver is triode strapped siemens c3g pentode post tube(http://www.jacmusic.com/nos/C3g-C3m-info.html) ac filaments, biased by 2 x 1.2V 2300mA NiMh at the cathode, output is 300b, dc filaments voltage regulated, rectifier is rca 83 mercury vapor tube. psu part is 480-0-480 to rectifier to 4uF input cap to 10H choke, to 55uF GE oil cap to 5H choke then 55uF GE oil cap. at the 480-0-480, there is a switch to open/close the 0v (ground). the same switch is used to turn on/off the primary 0-240v. this switch is a carling double pole triple throw, i am using it to switch primary 0-240v and also to switch the B+. grounding: my grounding for the psu caps are after this switch. the 100k resistor from input signal to ground goes before this switch, but i terminated the input ground from the rca to after the switch (i think this should be moved to before the switch to reduce hum/buzz, any ideas?) the cathode batteries are grounded after the switch, initially they were before the switch, but the OPT buzz with the powercord connected to mains even though the switch is off. removing the powercord stops the buzz. strange... what's the reason for this? c3g filaments: i added 0.5R to both pins of the c3g and got 6.8 something VAC with only the c3g tube in. then i replaced these with 1R and got 6.15VAC or so. thought i got it right. the moment i add other tubes in and switch on the filaments, it goes to 7.15VAC... not sure why. murphy's AC heatsink?: i tried to touch the heatsink to see if it is hot, but felt something... like little ants crawling on my fingertip... actually the heatsink is running 50 to 60 odd VAC when the filaments are on. there is no continuity from my lm317 nor my resistor that is mounted to the heatsink... but strangely... there is voltage. must be murphy's law. :P how can i isolate this? when i'm gonna build a chasis and tie the earth pin to it, will fireworks occur? closeup of amp: ![]() c3g: ![]() heatsink just added last night: ![]() drd while on: ![]() 83 while on. the blue glow is only visible from the top... bummer... ![]() day 2: left it on for 5 to 10mins with the heatsink, no time to play with it yet. seems ok, no burning smell and no smoke. i have replaced my tesla VR with 2 x 470R to get 940R(the required resistance from calculations), but this caused the c3g anode to go to 288VDC. will put in the tesla VR and try 900R tomorrow. any ideas? especially regarding the c3g filaments? and thanks for reading this long post. cheers garbage |
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#2 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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Quote:
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#3 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Singapore
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thanks for the response audiousername.
Quote:
![]() Quote:
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lm317 has a thermal pad between it and the heatsink, but the screw is not insulated. will check this out tonight if i have time. resistor has thermal grease applied. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Singapore
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psu layout as follows:
![]() tied at G1: 100k resistor from signal to ground and 0 winding of 230-0. tied to G2: battery bias for c3g, rca signal ground, psu caps ground and 300b cathode resistor. does the above grounding look correct? regarding the c3g voltage filaments, i made a mistake when taking measurement... i measured from the wrong end of the resistors... duh... they are actually at 6.15vac. ![]() cheers garbage |
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#5 | |
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RIP
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: C'ville VA, USA
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Singapore
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Quote:
i should have made myself clear. the anode of the 300B is at 606vdc, but anode to cathode voltage of the 300B is 342vdc. the 300b at the moment is running at 342v, -59v, 62mA. much different from my design of 350v, -74, 60mA. will have to tweak the resistors somewhat. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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Garbage,
I don't see anything much obviously wrong with the PSU.... I assume you use the switch from the transformer CT to ground to allow the 83 time to warmup, yes? You haven't drawn it, but you should ground the CT of the C3G filament heater winding (or one side if it doesn't have a CT). If it's already grounded - or referenced to some higher voltage leave it
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Singapore
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Quote:
![]() yes, the switch from transformer CT to ground is to allow for warmup manually. ok, will try grounding the CT of c3g. right now i am playing norah jones' come away with me cd with it. ![]() very very slight hum(maybe bcos speaker is 87db) when i place my ear right next to the woofer. i think this is expected, as i put the drd choke right in the middle of the 2 psu chokes. easier to breadboard. in the actual construction, the drd choke will be mounted above the psu chokes at 90degrees. cheers garbage |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Singapore
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Garbage,
nice chassis design you got there....love that vault-like look! Keep posting ,Oliver |
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