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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: New Jersey
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After completed my solid-state audio from the design of Nelson Pass, I would like to get my feet wet in the tube amp. To start it up, I would choose 2A3 and hopefully make a 300B by using Audiio Note Kit one design. In doing so, I have these following questions and I hope I can find some answer here:
1. Is there any 2A3 tube review out there? I found two very good links for reviewing all current 300B tubes, but I can not find 2A3's! 2. Can any suggest a good FM tuner to match the tube amp without breaking my pocket (around USD$ 300 as top limit!) I have one Sansui TU-717, which is good, but would like to explore a new one. Thanks, Thomas |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Quote:
High voltages and water just don't go together.I believe that the Sovtek 2A3 is well regarded. I have tested a couple and they seem to conform to the original 2A3 specification. However, one thing I did discover is that the heater voltage is critical. 10% low voltage at the heater pins is sufficient to cause emission to collapse.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: New Jersey
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Please don't mind my asking this simple question. In solid-state world, I know how to test a mosfet is matching well or not!
Is there a way to test a pair of tube that it is claimed to be a "matched pair" when I got it? (particularly is from ebay)? Thanks, Thomas |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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MOSFETs have huge device variation. The key specification for a MOSFET is the voltage required between the gate and the source to turn the device on. If you connect the MOSFET with a protective resistor in the drain to a power supply and monitor the current through it, then you can use a 9V battery followed by a potential divider to turn the device on and measure what voltage was required. Devices with equal turn-on voltages are matched.
You can pretty well assume that any valves you buy are not matched, no matter what the vendor says. What were they matching for? Mutual conductance, or anode current? Under what DC conditions? Did they know what they were doing? Did they have the requisite test gear? The best way of "matching" valves is to put them in the circuit and measure how they perform.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi,
If you want start, start with IDHT tubes. Russian 6C4C (latin: 6s4s = DHT 6B4G) is veeery good. But it is only my opinion. To be serious: starting with DHTs may be challenging. Good luck |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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EC8010
That is good point! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: New Jersey
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Thanks for the good tips!
To make sure, I ordered two good books from Amazon: 1. Valves Amplifers 2. Building Valve Amplifiers both are by Morgan Jones. At this moment, tube terms is killing me. I hope I can catch up soon! and hope that tubes isn't breaking my wallet! Thomas |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi tomchoada,
There is a lot of papers on the web. And those are in English, so you will cope with them
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#9 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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Quote:
Those are excellent books and explain the concepts quite well. I had "Valve Amplifiers" for a while but had to return it to the library Also, I'm pretty sure Morgan Jones does frequent this forum.... Quote:
There are plenty of people here willing to help
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Jason |
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