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Old 9th October 2004, 08:03 AM   #21
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choke in, choke out, choke in, then the choke remained.

More liquid and better spacing.

Siemens MKV & Jensen caps arriving in two weeks. By now im happy enough not to be bothered about them.
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Old 9th October 2004, 04:47 PM   #22
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Default Triode connection

Quote:
Originally posted by skyraider
Yesterday I have it moded to ultra-linear mode.
The sound: heaven

Previously SE pentode is a bit thick-sounding, female vocals doesnt sound right. Now its brought to a correct balance, and playing complex jazz parts is not a problem. Treble is now smoother, the grains are almost all gone.
If its not for the lack of bass, I would have thrown away my gainclone.
Im gonne try triode mode after this.
Skyraider,
Leave the choke,use some oil caps for PSU and make it triode connected!You will never go back if you like that liquid soprano voices!And of course: Let the coupling caps be Jupiter Beeswax.They are for my taste little bit better than Jensens!

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Yugovitz
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Old 9th October 2004, 07:27 PM   #23
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skyraider,
Can you post the updated schematic your using...Thanks Lee
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Old 10th October 2004, 02:31 PM   #24
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This is my schematic, slight modified from the original
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Old 10th October 2004, 02:35 PM   #25
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the power supply is the most critical part.
The tube i'm using is matsushita, and I couldnt find the datasheet for it. I found out that with higher B+, the sound is more alive. The rest is adjusted by ear. Here is the chicken scribble version
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Old 10th October 2004, 02:41 PM   #26
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Finally the pics are here.
I present to you: Black Beauty
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Old 10th October 2004, 07:28 PM   #27
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Default PSU!

Quote:
Originally posted by skyraider
the power supply is the most critical part.
The tube i'm using is matsushita, and I couldnt find the datasheet for it. I found out that with higher B+, the sound is more alive. The rest is adjusted by ear. Here is the chicken scribble version

Skyraider,
try if you have opportunity (for the best sound) to change the rectifier with a valve one ex. 5U4G or GZ34 (I personally prefer directly heated rcf.),or maybe use some fast diodes but SOFT recovery.They will make sound closer to the valve rectifier.Anyway cheap 1N4007 will be my last choice.And use fast/soft diodes without any snubber!

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Yugovitz
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Old 12th October 2004, 01:24 AM   #28
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Quote:
or maybe use some fast diodes but SOFT recovery.
But I heard that fast diodes has higher switching noise? Any value you recommend?

Quote:
without any snubber!
snubber means bypass with small value caps right?

thanks yugo
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Old 13th October 2004, 10:43 AM   #29
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Default Snubber!

Quote:
Originally posted by skyraider

But I heard that fast diodes has higher switching noise? Any value you recommend?

Skyraider,
My experience is based only on listening tests on my amps and preamps I build myself and also gained through exchanging ideas and experience of other diy-iers and ofcourse including this great forum and many threads I've read.You can use even better( some claim) shootky diodes (UF 4007 ex.) .For fast/soft use Philips's BYV96E.They are not expensive you can try both .YMMV.

snubber means bypass with small value caps right?

Yes,bypassing each diode with caps.But it is not so simple to put only let's say 0.01 or 0.1 ceramic cap and say I've done.You can calculate some components of the PSU first and then make the snubber values.You even have to put cap with res. in series and in parralel in that connection put another resistor!But according to the more experienced members of this forum for shootkys and for fast/soft diodes it is better not to put anything in parralel with them!

Hope this will help you more:

http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf


thanks yugo
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Old 18th October 2011, 01:14 PM   #30
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skyraider, on your heaters you have a 0.1uF in series to ground. This is connected to the 100R 'humdinger' on the front end between each of the filament runs. Assuming 50R-50R split resistance on each side, the F cutoff there is 31kHz. What's the point of that 0.1uF?
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