GE MKP Caps
hacknet,
I am not so familiar with those GE MKPs but I have used many times ASC MKP/OIL (www.angela.com)which are excellent performers for PSU.Although I have tried using them as a coupling caps in loudspk. XO and found in comparison with SOLENS MKP to be more fatigue and with grainy mids.I suppose GE are good for PSU and definitelly better in all aspects than normal elco's.If you go for elco's it would be cheaper.Depends how much money are you willing to invest for the amp.But before you buy GEs make price comparison with the SOLENs and ASCs.You will not make mistake in either way!
My 0.02$
Regards,
Yugovitz
hacknet,
I am not so familiar with those GE MKPs but I have used many times ASC MKP/OIL (www.angela.com)which are excellent performers for PSU.Although I have tried using them as a coupling caps in loudspk. XO and found in comparison with SOLENS MKP to be more fatigue and with grainy mids.I suppose GE are good for PSU and definitelly better in all aspects than normal elco's.If you go for elco's it would be cheaper.Depends how much money are you willing to invest for the amp.But before you buy GEs make price comparison with the SOLENs and ASCs.You will not make mistake in either way!
My 0.02$
Regards,
Yugovitz
Hi,
MKP caps are metallized polypropylene caps.
As long as the voltage rating is respected they'll work just fine in a PSU.
In fact they'll work better than almost any electrolytic cap thanks to their much lower ESR, they don't dry up either and don't require forming.
For adequate ripple filtering you're quite likely going to be needing more than 10µF however.
Cheers,
MKP caps are metallized polypropylene caps.
As long as the voltage rating is respected they'll work just fine in a PSU.
In fact they'll work better than almost any electrolytic cap thanks to their much lower ESR, they don't dry up either and don't require forming.
For adequate ripple filtering you're quite likely going to be needing more than 10µF however.
Cheers,
I built my 300B monoblocks with all polypropolene (Solen 630V) power supply. What's more, bypassed with Rel and MIT caps!
per monoblock:
100uF (2x 51uF) -> choke -> 150uF (10x 15uF) -> drop resistor -> 60uF (3x 20uF, for input stage)
but that was 10 years ago ('94) when I believed in 'overkill'. LOL!
per monoblock:
100uF (2x 51uF) -> choke -> 150uF (10x 15uF) -> drop resistor -> 60uF (3x 20uF, for input stage)
but that was 10 years ago ('94) when I believed in 'overkill'. LOL!
eh, lately, that would be the 47Labs/Final Labs/Gainclone crowdCirclotron said:
hacknet,
if you're serious about it, you might want to run some Duncan simulations.
http://www.duncanamps.com/psud2/index.html
Hi,
Sure....Just look under KT88, 6550, EL34, etc...
Cheers,
Sure....Just look under KT88, 6550, EL34, etc...
http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/audio/audioel.htm#Amps
Cheers,
It won't kill your dynamics, but too much capacitance may kill your rectifiers, even if they are solid state.hacknet said:
I'm guessing here, but I wouldn't be surprised if some of the Gainclone crowd had gone for maximum overkill in the capacitance department without insight into the consequences, thus putting undue strain on their rectifiers, causing overheating if perhaps not outright destruction.
Frank.
"I'm guessing here, but I wouldn't be surprised if some of the Gainclone crowd had gone for maximum overkill in the capacitance department without insight into the consequences, thus putting undue strain on their rectifiers, causing overheating if perhaps not outright destruction."
Ignorance is a great thing. It is standard practice in the "Gainclone crowd" to use 1000uf per rail which is never going to strain your rectifier. At the very most your average gaincloner is not going to go much above 4000uf per rail.
Don't dis the gaincloners until you have built and compared. Joe Rasmussen is a long standing valve expert and he compares a valve buffered Gainclone very favourably to his valve offerings.
Shoog
Ignorance is a great thing. It is standard practice in the "Gainclone crowd" to use 1000uf per rail which is never going to strain your rectifier. At the very most your average gaincloner is not going to go much above 4000uf per rail.
Don't dis the gaincloners until you have built and compared. Joe Rasmussen is a long standing valve expert and he compares a valve buffered Gainclone very favourably to his valve offerings.
Shoog
THE FIGURE GAME....
Hi,
Which is still very low if you consider the fact that: the supply voltage is only 35VDC and if I'm not mistaken it runs in Class AB1 as well.
When talking capacitance numbers in a powersupply the Farad value is rather meaningless without a voltage value.
After all 1µF/2000VDC doesn't seem much untill you realise what it means in Joule.
Other than that, better to use a little less C but use high quality than the other way around....
Cheers,
Hi,
Which is still very low if you consider the fact that: the supply voltage is only 35VDC and if I'm not mistaken it runs in Class AB1 as well.
When talking capacitance numbers in a powersupply the Farad value is rather meaningless without a voltage value.
After all 1µF/2000VDC doesn't seem much untill you realise what it means in Joule.
Other than that, better to use a little less C but use high quality than the other way around....
Cheers,
By mixing you may encounter some ringing between the caps which will be very difficult to pin down without a very good scope. Still you'll probably be OK.
On my Gainclones I have Ceramic caps bypassed by Tant caps bypassed by small electros. Seems to work and everything seems stable. Each different type of cap is best able to deal with difference noise frequencies.
Ceramics are excellent at very high frequencies.
Tants have ultra low ESR.
Electros are big enough to deal with the bottom end.
Suck it and see !!
Shoog
On my Gainclones I have Ceramic caps bypassed by Tant caps bypassed by small electros. Seems to work and everything seems stable. Each different type of cap is best able to deal with difference noise frequencies.
Ceramics are excellent at very high frequencies.
Tants have ultra low ESR.
Electros are big enough to deal with the bottom end.
Suck it and see !!
Shoog
I don't think many well read Gaincloners still buy into the small caps=fast supply pseudoscience. I think that was just a heap of crap thought up to justify the stupid price been charged for the Gainclone.
However the reason that most Gaincloners still use just 1000uf is because experience has shown that this tends to sound better. Saying that there are plenty of people experimenting with regulation in order to increase the capacitance without killing the sound. This gives significant improvements in the bass.
I won't mention Gainclones again because I am in danger of threadknapping.
Thanks
Shoog
However the reason that most Gaincloners still use just 1000uf is because experience has shown that this tends to sound better. Saying that there are plenty of people experimenting with regulation in order to increase the capacitance without killing the sound. This gives significant improvements in the bass.
I won't mention Gainclones again because I am in danger of threadknapping.
Thanks
Shoog
Hi,
There definetely can be...
Back in the Eighties is was considered "bon ton" to bypass electrolytic caps in the PS to "improve" the lousy high frequency characteristics of the electrolytic caps.
Well, that was than...
I tried it, others swore it was the next best thing since sliced bread but it never convinced me.
It always gave me the impression of having a peak somewhere in the high-mids to high frequencies that invariably detracted me from enjoying the music.
After so many years more and more people seem to concur and more importantly, electrolytic caps got better, much better.
So much so that there really is no reason to bypass them, in fact IMHO it still does more harm than good anyway.
So, since you'll want to put in those MKP caps no matter what, why not put them where they'll do the most good?
Assuming the pesky electrolytic caps are mainly used for PS filtering and will be at least a few inches away from the circuit proper you could put the better film caps where they belong: right next to the circuit just in front of the anode load.
By doing so most of the energy needed for the amplification will be drawn straight from a good low impedance source and as a side effect, whatever junk is still riding the PS after filtering now has a good chance of being shunted out before it has a chance of entering the amplification stages.
Give it a try, I'm sure you'll like what you'll be hearing.
If you have a diagram of the PS you're building I'm sure more ad rem directions could be given for best results.
Cheers,
There definetely can be...
Back in the Eighties is was considered "bon ton" to bypass electrolytic caps in the PS to "improve" the lousy high frequency characteristics of the electrolytic caps.
Well, that was than...
I tried it, others swore it was the next best thing since sliced bread but it never convinced me.
It always gave me the impression of having a peak somewhere in the high-mids to high frequencies that invariably detracted me from enjoying the music.
After so many years more and more people seem to concur and more importantly, electrolytic caps got better, much better.
So much so that there really is no reason to bypass them, in fact IMHO it still does more harm than good anyway.
So, since you'll want to put in those MKP caps no matter what, why not put them where they'll do the most good?
Assuming the pesky electrolytic caps are mainly used for PS filtering and will be at least a few inches away from the circuit proper you could put the better film caps where they belong: right next to the circuit just in front of the anode load.
By doing so most of the energy needed for the amplification will be drawn straight from a good low impedance source and as a side effect, whatever junk is still riding the PS after filtering now has a good chance of being shunted out before it has a chance of entering the amplification stages.
Give it a try, I'm sure you'll like what you'll be hearing.
If you have a diagram of the PS you're building I'm sure more ad rem directions could be given for best results.
Cheers,
bypass those suckers...?
Exactly!
Also as in my case (whisper... printed circuit boards), I have a 100nF 630V polypropylene cap close to my sand bridge rectumfier 'cause it's a few inches away fron the main PSU cap bank. Also two 1uF 630V caps right at the input driver and the phase splitter that are on a different PC board where the do the most good. In my humble experience placing them directly across or very close to those big electro's result in harsh or as I say somethin' AIN'T right sound!
My 2 cents
Wayne
Exactly!
Also as in my case (whisper... printed circuit boards), I have a 100nF 630V polypropylene cap close to my sand bridge rectumfier 'cause it's a few inches away fron the main PSU cap bank. Also two 1uF 630V caps right at the input driver and the phase splitter that are on a different PC board where the do the most good. In my humble experience placing them directly across or very close to those big electro's result in harsh or as I say somethin' AIN'T right sound!
My 2 cents
Wayne
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