Convert Audion Silver Knight PP monos

[RAFG]

I'm considering changing the printed board of my Audion monos and hardwiring them. Has anybody got any info to share? Has anybody done anything similar? The thing is I also have some hum problem with them and I'd like to change some components just in case they are the culprits and while we are at it it seemed to me a good idea to do that conversion from Pc to p-to-p wiring configuration.

Thanks

 

[analog_sa]

it seemed to me a good idea to do that conversion from Pc to p-to-p wiring configuration.

It's the best idea if you're hellbent on destroying the resale value of your amps. As a side effect you may even get some increase in hum for free.

Seriously, unless you're experienced and know exactly what you're doing the exercise is simply not worth it.

 

[RAFG]

That's the kind of commentaries I was expecting: the pros and cons of my clever/stupid idea. But although it seems to me you've got a good point there, curiously enough, on Audion's website the conversion to p-t-p is part of the upgrade path the firm provides to customers...

 

[SY]

Has the amp always hummed or is this something new?

 

[RAFG]

Well, I'm not sure. It started humming 2 or 3 years ago. I sent the monos to Audion's headquarters. And he apparently did not detect anything... Obviously, I did (otherwise I wouldn't have wasted my money). I think it all started from the moment a bridge rectifier went phut. I replaced it with a higher rating unit but from that moment on I detect some hum coming from all the drivers of my Triangle Antals. First it was one mono now they are both. I changed valves (a quad of 300b) to no avail. I put some tape on the ground contact of the power chords to know if it was something related to that.... nothing. Now I believe it can be some component, a cap or a resistor. That's why I thought that I could change and upgrade components with the hope of eliminating the defective one...

 

[SY]

Replace all electrolytics, but most especially the power supply caps. If there's a cap from the heater winding to ground (often a ceramic disc), you might want to replace that, too.

Don't go fancy-grade, just get some solid, reliable parts in there to see if it takes care of the issue.

 

[RAFG]

Thanks for your help.