Seeing it`s got tubes in the output, maybe someone knows something about this.
I pick up what i believe to be a very rare tube cd player, it`s a (Musical Fidelity Class A Tube CD player Limited Edition) thats all it says on the front and there`s nothing on the back. I had to fix the tray as it was getting jammed with a few spacing washers and now it`s 100%. This thing sounds really good, but there`s nothing on the web or at MF`s site. It looks as though it be from the E (Electra) series but it`s not, it has the similar black gloss face and all.
Any help or info would be appreciated.
Cheers George
I pick up what i believe to be a very rare tube cd player, it`s a (Musical Fidelity Class A Tube CD player Limited Edition) thats all it says on the front and there`s nothing on the back. I had to fix the tray as it was getting jammed with a few spacing washers and now it`s 100%. This thing sounds really good, but there`s nothing on the web or at MF`s site. It looks as though it be from the E (Electra) series but it`s not, it has the similar black gloss face and all.
Any help or info would be appreciated.
Cheers George
The first MF CD player I remember was the frog face one which looked like the A1 amp but had a top loading philips drive and a couple of ECC81/2 showing at the bacK of the case. There was also another front loading model based on the B1 case style.
If yours is in black gloss finish the it has to be a bit later. It's likely that it's still based on a Philips transport and 16 bit DAC with only the final amplification stage using tubes. As I remember, they were all good sounding units - nothing magical about the design, just some power supply mods and of course the final triode stage which made them sound a bit more analog and 'vinyl like'.
Future repairs shouldn't be a problem as all the MF range was built from readily available off the shelf parts.
If yours is in black gloss finish the it has to be a bit later. It's likely that it's still based on a Philips transport and 16 bit DAC with only the final amplification stage using tubes. As I remember, they were all good sounding units - nothing magical about the design, just some power supply mods and of course the final triode stage which made them sound a bit more analog and 'vinyl like'.
Future repairs shouldn't be a problem as all the MF range was built from readily available off the shelf parts.
There`s nothing on the tubes at all, they are on a separate board made by MF 12"x 2.5" with the h/t supply, the tubes look like 12--7`s and are flying lead ones soldered to the board, also there is a reclocking board again made by MF that`s mounted over the main digital board, thats 6"x2". The main board is about 12"x 9". 2x big toroidals as well.
Martinab2 i found the tube one your thinking of but this ones much later, it`s got the same stying as the E or Electra series, very glossy black looks like black glass.
As for Mf helping me out, forget it they do`nt even have an email address for me to write to. I`d love to know how many of these were made, as it looks as though i have the only one maybe.
Cheers George
Martinab2 i found the tube one your thinking of but this ones much later, it`s got the same stying as the E or Electra series, very glossy black looks like black glass.
As for Mf helping me out, forget it they do`nt even have an email address for me to write to. I`d love to know how many of these were made, as it looks as though i have the only one maybe.
Cheers George
Hi,
The tubes look like regular ECC88/6DJ8s.
Passive components are off the shelf Philips (?) resistors, filmcaps look like polyester cheapos, lytics are waiting to be upgraded to better grade stuff as well...
It may be worthwhile to restuff the boards with better grade components just to squeeze a little more life out it....
Would be nice to make a circuit diagram for it first though.
Cheers,
The tubes look like regular ECC88/6DJ8s.
Passive components are off the shelf Philips (?) resistors, filmcaps look like polyester cheapos, lytics are waiting to be upgraded to better grade stuff as well...
It may be worthwhile to restuff the boards with better grade components just to squeeze a little more life out it....
Would be nice to make a circuit diagram for it first though.
Cheers,
Thanks Dave what would we do without you, by the way guys the D/A convertor chips must be under the copper square can as there are no convertor chips anywhere on the main board or under the re/clocking board.
Frank are you 100% positive about the tubes being 6dj8 as they have no branding on them and if they are el-cheapos i`ll be able to stick some better brand ones in there, also if the previous owner/owners left this thing on constantly for a couple of years the tubes could be shot?
The tubes are removable at first they were very tight so i thought they were soldered in. I have taken some closeup shots of the tubes out if you want i can email the pics to you for confermation, but i need your email address.
Cheers George
Frank are you 100% positive about the tubes being 6dj8 as they have no branding on them and if they are el-cheapos i`ll be able to stick some better brand ones in there, also if the previous owner/owners left this thing on constantly for a couple of years the tubes could be shot?
The tubes are removable at first they were very tight so i thought they were soldered in. I have taken some closeup shots of the tubes out if you want i can email the pics to you for confermation, but i need your email address.
Cheers George
Hi,
I had a look at the pics. They sure look like ECC88s to me.
Here's what you can do to make absolutely sure:
Check the valve stem (were the pin base is welded to the bulb) for acid marking.
If the tube is made in Europe, the base should have such a marking: usually two lines of three to four characters and figures combined.
Cheers,
I had a look at the pics. They sure look like ECC88s to me.
Here's what you can do to make absolutely sure:
Check the valve stem (were the pin base is welded to the bulb) for acid marking.
If the tube is made in Europe, the base should have such a marking: usually two lines of three to four characters and figures combined.
Cheers,
fdegrove said:Hi,
The tubes look like regular ECC88/6DJ8s.
Passive components are off the shelf Philips (?) resistors, filmcaps look like polyester cheapos, lytics are waiting to be upgraded to better grade stuff as well...
It may be worthwhile to restuff the boards with better grade components just to squeeze a little more life out it....
Would be nice to make a circuit diagram for it first though.
Cheers,
good idea
Re: Re: Cheapskates
Also notice how one of them is only 25v 100mf?
I found some further information on google:
On ebay ab Musical Fidelity ELEKTRA E 60 CD PLAYER
It seems to be a german make...
My summary:
The DAC can't be too good if Sony is mentioned to have a better one, however according to this quote it seems it outperforms if an external DAC is utilised...
Cheers
karma said:
im glad im not the only one that saw that. if it was mine it would be time for a little modding
Also notice how one of them is only 25v 100mf?
I found some further information on google:
On ebay ab Musical Fidelity ELEKTRA E 60 CD PLAYER
It seems to be a german make...
My summary:
The DAC can't be too good if Sony is mentioned to have a better one, however according to this quote it seems it outperforms if an external DAC is utilised...
Cheers
