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| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tucson AZ / Saugatuck MI
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Hello Fanatics,
I'm building a cathode-feedback PPP amp, and am looking at tweaking the design of the input and driver stages. Because of the cathode-feedback design, the driver stages must provide hefty voltage gain and swing. The original design uses a 12AT7, with one half as an input stage direct-coupled to the other half, which is configured as a concertina phase splitter. The original design's driver stage uses a 12AU7, with each half in common-cathode configuration, driving half of the output stage. I'd enjoy any suggestions as to an alternative high-gain, high-voltage splitter-driver topology, but am wondering if there are any lower-distortion tube choices that would enhance the original topology. From Morgan Jone's "Valve Amplifiers", and from the plate curves, it seems that the 6SN7 could be an improvement over the 12AU7. Comments? ![]() So far I haven't found a promising high-mu (60 or more) alternative to the 12AT7 in the input-concertina stages, but this could be due to my inexperience. Any suggestions? I'd be glad to go with separate-envelope triodes in order to get lower distortion. Thanks for your help, and happy tweaking. Best, George Ferguson |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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6SN7-oids do much better than 12AU7s. Other alternatives include 6CG7/6FQ7, 7119, and 6BK7/6BX7. You can get a surprising amount of swing out of a 6DJ8, especially in a cascode.
For higher-mu tubes, the 6SL7 family is first-rate. If you want swing, lose the concertina (split load) and look at constant-current diff amps. Or if you want to really trick things out, consider my SYclotron input stage.
__________________
"...we stumble and get up, we are sad, confident, insecure, feel loneliness and joy and love. There is nothing more; but I want nothing more.” - Christopher Hitchens 1949-2011 |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tucson AZ / Saugatuck MI
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Hey SY,
Thanks for the reply--your information and wit are first rate, as per. The 6SL7 looks great--its plate curves are very evenly spaced. Is the current production Sovtek 6SL7 any good? I'd like to start with current production before I start tube rolling. Can you think of any drawbacks in my application, compared to the 12AT7? With such nice curves, I wonder why folks use the 12AT7 instead, unless its lower Ri is somehow a factor ![]() I'm still learning here... ![]() And thanks for the alternative topology suggestions--can you point me to info on your SYchotic design? Thanks again, George Ferguson |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I'm not familiar with current-production 6SL7s, so someone else will have to opine on the Sovteks. My personal fave is NOS 5691s, but I was prescient enough to buy a bunch 20 years ago. The major disadvantage of the 6SL7 compared with a 12AT7 is size and (I think) higher interelectrode capacitance.
I'll do a search for the SYclotron and edit a link into this note. Basically, it's a folded cross-coupled inverter using (I think) a pretty novel DC coupling scheme inspired by David Berning and John Curl. It gets around the interelectrode capacitance issue by driving the grids from source followers. EDIT: Here's a link. Fun little P-P input stage
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"...we stumble and get up, we are sad, confident, insecure, feel loneliness and joy and love. There is nothing more; but I want nothing more.” - Christopher Hitchens 1949-2011 |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Locktal equivalents of many popular Octal types are available at ATTRACTIVE prices. The Locktal equivalent of the 6SL7 is the 7F7.
BTW, interelectrode capacitances tend to be lower in Locktals than in Octals. Loctals use a glass button base instead of the stem found in Octals.
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Eli D. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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You're talking about a Williamson driver. DC coupling to a concertina works very well, but there are better valves than the 12AT7. As has already been mentioned, 6SL7 and 7F7 are very good as gain stages. Continuing on the Loktal theme, 7N7 works well in a concertina. There is plenty of room for discussion on these choices.
The driver can definitely be improved using 7N7 or 6SN7 in place of 12AU7. No question. Beware that these suggestions will require double the heater current and require a different setting of the HF compensation of the finished amplifier. They will be much better, though, so it's worth your while.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
Cheers,
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Frank |
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#8 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tucson AZ / Saugatuck MI
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SY wrote:
Quote:
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And thanks for the SYclotron (tm) link. It looks very clever, and I may try it out once I am finished with transistor-detox. ![]() And Eli, Thanks for the info--very interesting. ![]() Can you give me any pointers (links are fine) on the differences between these bases, and how to figure out equivalent tubes with different bases? I looked on DuncanAmps.com, and as far as I can see their "Substitute" listings are for tubes with the same base type as the tube being shown. Man, the plate curves for the 6SL7 / 7F7 ( http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/pdf/vm342.pdf ) look so much more evenly spaced than the 12AT7. It looks like I am going to have to crack down and do more studying, so I can get a handle on the tradeoffs in my particular design (gain, rolloff, etc.) Man, I love this stuff. I just read a negative review of the EH KT90 s by Jim Shane over on the Audio Asylum. I already bought mine. they work better in my application (his is an upgraded Citation). Thanks Again and Happy Tweaking, George Ferguson |
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#9 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tucson AZ / Saugatuck MI
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EC8010's dancing fingers tapped:
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Many thanks, George Ferguson |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Compensation refers to rolloffs deliberately placed in the amp circuit to limit the open-loop bandwidth and stabilize feedback. There can also be compensation components in the feedback loop itself, most commonly a capacitor acros the feedback resistor. Look up "Bode Plots" to get a better understanding.
__________________
"...we stumble and get up, we are sad, confident, insecure, feel loneliness and joy and love. There is nothing more; but I want nothing more.” - Christopher Hitchens 1949-2011 |
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