6V6 SET amp with 6SN7 driver - Page 3

Eli Duttman · 26th April 2004, 09:42 PM

Instead of an "ordinary" 5Y3, spend a little extra and buy a 6087/5Y3WGTB. The 6087 has a cathode sleeve. The IDH signal tubes will last longer with a slow B+ rise. Prevent cathode stripping.

A 5V4 is another suitable 1/2 indirectly heated rectifier. The forward voltage drop in a 5V4 is less than that in a 5Y3.

camotecue · 27th April 2004, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Eli Duttman
Instead of an "ordinary" 5Y3, spend a little extra and buy a 6087/5Y3WGTB. The 6087 has a cathode sleeve. The IDH signal tubes will last longer with a slow B+ rise. Prevent cathode stripping.

A 5V4 is another suitable 1/2 indirectly heated rectifier. The forward voltage drop in a 5V4 is less than that in a 5Y3.

Eli Duttman,

do i have to change the values of the any of the parts in the power supply should i use 5Y3WGTB rather than 5y3 only?

arnoldc · 27th April 2004, 02:05 AM

i am not Eli but i would say no. am i right Eli?

and i'd say go for slow start rectifiers, or put in a stand by switch (which is mostly what i do). you don't have to limit your tube rectifier choices, find one that is slow start and which you will have a budget for, because 5AR4's are ridiculously high priced in the philippines. 5Y3 and a stand by switch a lot cheaper

once you have sorted out your choice, then we can design the PSU around that using PSUD.

Eli Duttman · 27th April 2004, 03:26 AM

6087/5Y3WGTB replaces an "ordinary" 5Y3 without any circuit changes. Same story for the 6106. A 5Y3 with a slow B+ rise is nice. I use Raytheon 6087s in my DECWEAR SE84Bs, whose circuitry is also triode/triode strapped pentode.

If you use a 5V4, you will have to allow for a higher B+ rail voltage.

A way to get the slow B+ rise CHEAP is to use 2X 7Y4 Locktal tubes. In the US, Locktal sockets cost more than 7Y4s and 7Z4s do.

Lico · 27th April 2004, 03:50 AM

The first schematic planet10 posted is the one i built. here's the ps for it. Enjoy.

Andy

Roscoe Primrose · 27th April 2004, 04:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lico
The first schematic planet10 posted is the one i built. here's the ps for it. Enjoy.

Andy

You may want to re-think that, the 5V4 is rated for 10uF max for the first stage of a cap input filter...

Peace

SHiFTY · 27th April 2004, 06:28 AM

^^ Not according to the data I have... 32uF is the max input capacitance. 10uF is suggested, but you can use more as long as you don't go over peak current ratings. I would suggest something like 22uF for a 5V4.

Check this:
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/f.../001/5/5V4.gif

I use a Mullard GZ32, the nicest rectifier around! It is a 5V4 equiv.

G · 30th April 2004, 03:29 PM

This is the Schematic of my SE EL84 amp. You will have to change the biasing of the output stage a little to use a 6V6 but everthing else should be the same. I'm king of busy today otherwise I would do the calculations for you and post them. Sorry.

G · 30th April 2004, 03:34 PM

My apologies. THis is the correct schematic. Oops.

camotecue · 6th May 2004, 02:20 AM

i decided to go for a 5u4g rectifier. i'll be using a power transformer rated at 300-0-300. can anyone please help me design the power supply if i require 250V B+ for the 6V6 and 180V for the 6sn7 driver. thanks

26th April 2004, 09:42 PM	#21
Eli Duttman diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Plainsboro, NJ	Instead of an "ordinary" 5Y3, spend a little extra and buy a 6087/5Y3WGTB. The 6087 has a cathode sleeve. The IDH signal tubes will last longer with a slow B+ rise. Prevent cathode stripping. A 5V4 is another suitable 1/2 indirectly heated rectifier. The forward voltage drop in a 5V4 is less than that in a 5Y3. __________________ Eli D.

27th April 2004, 03:26 AM	#24
Eli Duttman diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Plainsboro, NJ	6087/5Y3WGTB replaces an "ordinary" 5Y3 without any circuit changes. Same story for the 6106. A 5Y3 with a slow B+ rise is nice. I use Raytheon 6087s in my DECWEAR SE84Bs, whose circuitry is also triode/triode strapped pentode. If you use a 5V4, you will have to allow for a higher B+ rail voltage. A way to get the slow B+ rise CHEAP is to use 2X 7Y4 Locktal tubes. In the US, Locktal sockets cost more than 7Y4s and 7Z4s do. __________________ Eli D.

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27th April 2004, 02:05 AM	#23
arnoldc diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Makati	i am not Eli but i would say no. am i right Eli? and i'd say go for slow start rectifiers, or put in a stand by switch (which is mostly what i do). you don't have to limit your tube rectifier choices, find one that is slow start and which you will have a budget for, because 5AR4's are ridiculously high priced in the philippines. 5Y3 and a stand by switch a lot cheaper once you have sorted out your choice, then we can design the PSU around that using PSUD.

27th April 2004, 06:28 AM	#27
SHiFTY diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: New Zealand	^^ Not according to the data I have... 32uF is the max input capacitance. 10uF is suggested, but you can use more as long as you don't go over peak current ratings. I would suggest something like 22uF for a 5V4. Check this: http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/f.../001/5/5V4.gif I use a Mullard GZ32, the nicest rectifier around! It is a 5V4 equiv.

6th May 2004, 02:20 AM	#30
camotecue diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: pampanga	i decided to go for a 5u4g rectifier. i'll be using a power transformer rated at 300-0-300. can anyone please help me design the power supply if i require 250V B+ for the 6V6 and 180V for the 6sn7 driver. thanks

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