Prototyping ( Breadboard ) Chassis Ideas and Suggestions

[DrDeville]

Greetings Tweakers,

I'd like to get your comments and suggestions on a prototyping chassis to suit my needs.

Despite a big slab of wood's obvious charms, I'd prefer to mount the components on a plate, and wire them from the rear. I plan to mount my completed amp on a metal plate resting on a wooden base, a la Bottlehead, and I'd like my prototype to mimic this configuration so I can test my layouts.

I also like being able to rest the plate upside down on the base while I work on it, and having people and pets protected from my prototype's wires when it is playing music.

So here's what I have come up with so far.

John Rutter at HarmonicDesignWorks.com makes the Bottlehead bases, and sells custom wooden bases. That seems like an easy choice. Any other suggestions?

For my prototyping top plate, I was thinking of a slotted metal plate, like this one . I figure I can mount components where I wish, and fairly easily cut holes for tube sockets. What do you think? Know of anything better?

For inspiration, and an alternative, here's a link to Gary Pimms amp project--the photos at the end show a nifty scavenged chassis. I suppose I could look for one. Does anyone know an online source?

Anyway, those are my ideas. Comments and suggestions solicited.

Best,

George "Tweaky" Ferguson

[Layberinthius]

I should think a solid no-holes top-plate would be better because of technicians coming over and dropping a screwdriver or two out of their geek top-pocket.

A couple of holes around the tube sockets alone upon the solid top plate would suffice for air ventilation easily as long as you have that grilled metal you are talking about for a baseplate.

It would look really nifty for a ventilation for my horizontally mounted tube amp as it can let a lot more air than my poorly cut strips :P

For inspiration, and an alternative, here's a link to Gary Pimms amp project--the photos at the end show a nifty scavenged chassis. I suppose I could look for one. Does anyone know an online source?

Gary Pimm is using that chassis because he is very very very cheap and by the looks of it doesn't know what a bread-board looks like.

You can buy Hammond chassis off their website all shapes and sizes, chassis punches even :P

For those enthusiasts who want to build and/or design their own valve equipment, we now offer the range of Hammond steel and metal chassis with optional base plates. The steel chassis are spot welded and heavy duty construction. They are finished in satin black or grey powder coat. See specification sheet for sizes and part numbers. Contact us for sizes not listed below and we will quote.

Just go to: http://www.evatco.com.au/
and then select "Chassis" from the left-hand side, that's the only reference I have found to Hammond chassis'es and even then it's i n Aussie land... Go figure!

Anyone else recommend a similar chassis cutter in wherever this boy is :P

Cheers

[speaker]

Originally posted by DrDeville

For my prototyping top plate, I was thinking of a slotted metal plate, like this one . I figure I can mount components where I wish, and fairly easily cut holes for tube sockets. What do you think? Know of anything better?

I've done the same thing with perforated metal for exactly the reasons you state. It is a good plan and makes it easy. One thing though, I'd use aluminum rather than steel as it is easy to cut with a tablesaw & carbide blade. The thickness should be at least .063" if the spans are under 8". If the spans are larger, use 080" or even .10" thickness.

speaker

[DrDeville]

Speaker wrote:

The thickness should be at least .063" if the spans are under 8". If the spans are larger, use 080" or even .10" thickness.

Hi Speaker,

Thanks for the validation of my scheme. I was planning on aluminium, but wasn't sure about the thickness. I'm planning on a roomy chassis, so I'll go with the 0.1"

I've asked mcnichols.com for a quote. Please let me know if you have a good source.

Best,

George Ferguson

[arnoldc]

hi,

i use two types for prototyping. one is wood, which you already mentioned and the other is 2mm aluminum bottom plate.

this 2mm aluminum bottom plate, is yes, the bottom plate of one of my amps. it has holes neatly spaced, and i rigged it so i have holes for 9-pins, 8-pins, 4/5-pins and one 8-pins for the rectifier.

i've prototyped a 300B on this, a single ended pentode stereo amp, and right now it has stereo PP EL34 circuit on it.

i attached a wooden base on front and back, for the power switch and rca/binding posts, respectively. the left and right sides are open for easy access.