Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum

Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 22nd October 2017, 02:42 AM   #71
audiowize is offline audiowize  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Seattle
Send a message via AIM to audiowize
I feel the need to mention some things here about Front Panel Designer and FPE.

1. A DXF can be used to define the perimeter shape of a panel. A separate DXF can be imported for interior cutouts. The interior cutout DXF can be broken up for editing.

2. 4mm aluminum isn't cheap. My local vendor wants $40 for a 0.16" (4mm) piece that's 11x13".

3. Anodized aluminum isn't cheap. I'd spend another $60 sending said part out to the only anodizer I know who doesn't regularly screw up terribly. She also takes about 10 days to turn things around.

4. Chromating isn't cheap. I don't even know where I'd go to get a panel anodized on one side and chromated on the other.

5. A scratch free finish is usually very rare. On any panel that isn't raw aluminum, FPE will guarantee a scratch free finish.

3mm anodized AL without the chromated rear surface is $62.69. When I compare this to the $31 that my local metal supplier wants for the same size/thickness piece, I note the following:

1. The piece from FPE will have a CNC finished edge. The piece from the metal supply shop may be cut by a hydraulic shear, which doesn't do wonderful things to the edges. The tolerances held will also be much tighter on the CNC.

2. The piece from FPE will be scratch free and anodized.

3. The piece from FPE will take a little longer to get.

If you want a more economical option that will save you from having to manually drill everything out (which never turns out perfectly), I've found a place or two local to me who have a waterjet and will make about whatever I want for about $100.
  Reply With Quote


Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Millett DCPP "Engineer's Amp" complete 6L6 Swap Meet 5 6th November 2015 09:27 PM
Preamp Recommendation For Millett "Engineer's Amplifier" ccw505 Analog Line Level 2 16th May 2014 10:19 PM
DCPP - "Engineer's Amplifier" : Need a bit of help bdog Tubes / Valves 31 5th August 2013 08:21 AM
Shocker USA Sig 15" build log hispls Subwoofers 1 12th August 2010 09:58 PM
"log line" and "pressure chamber" skrivis Multi-Way 0 21st April 2005 04:55 PM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:08 PM.

Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.00%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio