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Old 29th February 2004, 02:43 AM   #11
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Instead of pulling air from inside the case to vent outside why not do the opposite, pull air from outside and through the case, slight pressurization of the case?
With the help of some baffles to direct airflow particularly over the tubes you may be surprised. You can use cardboard for the baffles (I like Fedex envelopes for this, the paper used is stiff enough and you can't beat the price
Use a filter over the fan intake, in that way when you pressurize the case it does not get dirty inside. You will also keep the noise level lower.
Just a thought.
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Old 29th February 2004, 07:55 AM   #12
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Hi there....for Hi Fi listening those fans be quieter than the amp S/N ratio otherwise there's no point in going for a super spec. On some apps I use Micronel very low profile, and as others mentioned run fans on LV. One doesn't need to create a <gale> through the chassis to cool, you'll be suprised what a small breeze can get rid of and while listening one can also turn the radiator off in the room.

C1 on that PSU simulation better be a pretty good quality cap; Those 4007's for the PSU...... I'm not sure of the reverse leakage rating for the standard IN4007 are at high voltage and temp.
The ratings on simulation may be sound, but in the real world without supression caps, and polluted AC supply, I wrap this up for a well rated square bridge type KBU series or sim. Discrete arrangement semi's are generally more noisier than a 4-in-one encapsulated die.

Series elect caps are a headache....sometimes unavoidable....remember... use equalisation resistors across them.

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Old 29th February 2004, 09:51 AM   #13
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Quote:
Hi there....for Hi Fi listening those fans be quieter than the amp S/N ratio otherwise there's no point in going for a super spec.
They will be, and so will be my entire room, by the time I'm done
all walls will be covered with Sonex noise reflection foam..

It still wont do anything for Bass, but I don't listen to many bass
sources anyway :P

Quote:
One doesn't need to create a <gale> through the chassis to cool, you'll be suprised what a small breeze can get rid of and while listening one can also turn the radiator off in the room.
Yup, As I said 2400 rpm at stock I should be able to vary it down to 6-7volt with a pot and make a smooth Sailor

Quote:
C1 on that PSU simulation better be a pretty good quality cap; Those 4007's for the PSU...... I'm not sure of the reverse leakage rating for the standard IN4007 are at high voltage and temp.
I was actually planing on using BY 127's and a pair of heatsinked 400v bridges for filament.

Is there any way I can prevent all the poop coming from the grid
other than placing a UPS in-line?

Quote:
Series elect caps are a headache....sometimes unavoidable....remember... use equalisation resistors across them.
I'll look up how to do it but it's good to hear from more reliable designs...
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Old 29th February 2004, 01:35 PM   #14
316a is offline 316a  England
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Default Some advice

Quote:
Originally posted by Layberinthius


They will be, and so will be my entire room, by the time I'm done
all walls will be covered with Sonex noise reflection foam..

It still wont do anything for Bass, but I don't listen to many bass
sources anyway :P



Yup, As I said 2400 rpm at stock I should be able to vary it down to 6-7volt with a pot and make a smooth Sailor



I was actually planing on using BY 127's and a pair of heatsinked 400v bridges for filament.

Is there any way I can prevent all the poop coming from the grid
other than placing a UPS in-line?



I'll look up how to do it but it's good to hear from more reliable designs...
Ditch the fans , they're more trouble than they're worth , unless you're going to take the p*ss out of the output valves . Build the chassis as big as possible . If you build an amp thats too small , it may limit future modifications and make layout a nightmare . Use perforated sheet for a base and keep the design simple . Weigh all of the iron on bathroom scales and decide on the top plate thickness (I'm now on my 5th attempt at a monster class A amp , each time the chassis was too puny for the 35kgs of iron!) If it's a first attempt it would be a good idea to keep the HT choke well away from the input valves , space the output valves evenly across the width of the chassis and keep a few inches between them and input valves . Hope this helps . Why use an uninterrupted power supply (UPS) ? Better off using a mains filter and snubbing the choke and rectifier diodes .

316a
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