Tube wiring guide line - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Tubes / Valves
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 29th December 2015, 03:40 AM   #1
cl1238 is offline cl1238  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne
Default Tube wiring guide line

Hi, is there any guide line for tube socket wiring to PCB?
I'm using a pre made PCB, but the chassis I have does not match up the holes with PCB mount sockets, hence I have to run fly wire to the PCB.
Should the heater wiring must be shielded from the rest (HT, grid, cathode ...)?
Max length of the wires (does the length reduce the sound quality)?
Wire type (24 x 0.2mm, 13 x 0.12mm)?
Thanks
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th December 2015, 04:05 AM   #2
rongon is offline rongon  United States
diyAudio Member
 
rongon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Across the river from Rip's big old tree...
Heater wiring should be tightly twisted, so that AC does not radiate into adjacent wiring.

Usually AC heater current doesn't go through PCB traces. Perhaps your PCB was designed for a DC heater supply.

It sounds like your PCB was made for a different tube socket than the ones you have. Why not find the correct PCB mount tube sockets for your PCB? They're usually inexpensive.

--
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th December 2015, 04:24 AM   #3
cl1238 is offline cl1238  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne
Hi, Rongon. if I use PCB mount socket, I have modify the metal chassis (re drill new holes, cover old holes, modify the hole for transformer etc...). It seems to be easier for me just to run fly wire.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0016.jpg (564.6 KB, 190 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st January 2016, 07:45 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
That looks like a Douk audio chassis for point to point wiring and the board looks like the one for their other chassis for EL34 output valves. Have you considered doing point to point wiring rather than use the circuit board? it is more flexible so makes component changes easier if you are wanting to upgrade or make modifications. Also helps learn how circuit works!
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st January 2016, 09:12 PM   #5
cl1238 is offline cl1238  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne
Thanks Avo, I have already traced the track vs the schematic.
My last tube amp built was 35+ years ago, hence my soldering would be considered as zero, therefore I want to use the PCB to minimise problem.
I'll be connecting the socket to the PCB hence want to know if there are problem when other cables are close to each other (apart from the burner wiring)?
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st January 2016, 09:34 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
There are a few things to consider, heater wiring does need to be kept separate and neatly twisted to reduce risk of hum pick up. Signal leads are prone to picking up noise so keeping them short is good. Also there are some components such as grid resistors that are best soldered direct to the valve socket as they are there to reduce RF into the valve so if they are portent in your schematic maybe solder direct to the socket and jumper the position on the board.

Things to think about if you have been away from soldering for a hole is that most solder supplied these days is lead free and bloody awful to work with! It is possible to get proper lead tin stuff if you try, I use solder that I have had in my toolbox for over 30 years. Also if using lead free stuff you need a recent soldering iron as it melts at a higher temperature than the old stuff.

Soldering is a bit like riding a bike once you have mastered it you will remember quickly how to do it. I tackled a point to point kit and, once I had decided where to put things, got it together pretty easily and then learned a lot trying to find the not very deliberate mistakes

I guess using a PCB will make misplace,eng of components more difficult the risk of whiskers and dry joints on a PCB is some what higher if you are out of practice.

Best of luck with it I look forward to hearing how you get on.



Caber
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st January 2016, 11:03 PM   #7
cl1238 is offline cl1238  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne
Thanks Caber, I'll let you know once it is finished.
I'll be using my old solder first (hope it is enough for this project) and I'll keep in mind on the new solder characteristic.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Connex Electronics Smart Start V3 Wiring Guide? mstang1988 Class D 1 12th August 2014 05:37 AM
Wiring a line array: altering wiring schemes for matching levels w/woofer dave251 Multi-Way 6 5th February 2014 01:21 AM
Interesting wiring guide find, thanks NASA! m6tt Tubes / Valves 9 26th February 2010 03:57 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:33 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2016 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2
Wiki