Hello again, i have just found an amp that perhaps is to be my first homemade tubeamplifier and what i'm wondering is this:
has anyone had any experience with this one from boozhound?
http://www.boozhoundlabs.com/howto/
for a beginner it seems like a great way to start since it is relativly cheap to buy the parts and the instructions are great.
the price for the transformers, tubes and choke comes to about 300euro, which is a good price, I guess....
(thinking of buying cheeper capacitors and so on. bad idea???)
so is there anyone out there who has either built it and can say if it's worth the money, or perhaps can say just by seeing the schematics???
my loudspeakers are these:
http://www.monitoraudio.co.uk/products/bronze/series/b4.htm
has anyone had any experience with this one from boozhound?
http://www.boozhoundlabs.com/howto/
for a beginner it seems like a great way to start since it is relativly cheap to buy the parts and the instructions are great.
the price for the transformers, tubes and choke comes to about 300euro, which is a good price, I guess....
(thinking of buying cheeper capacitors and so on. bad idea???)
so is there anyone out there who has either built it and can say if it's worth the money, or perhaps can say just by seeing the schematics???
my loudspeakers are these:
http://www.monitoraudio.co.uk/products/bronze/series/b4.htm
6V6 triode
Hi,
6V6 as a triode sounds very good. I am not sure if you will have enough power with 91dB speakers and SE though. Maybe, depends on your listening habits.
The first scratch built amp I did is an adaptation of a schematic from a 1953 book by the name of "Practical Amplifier Diagrams". Lots of fun and sounds great. I used some found toroids as the output transformers, a power transformer salvaged from a $20 ebay amp and a 6CA4 from the same amp as the rectifier. Tubes are 6N7 and 6V6 and it is push pull. A couple of polypro/oil caps, a surplus buy choke and some miscellaneous parts. Total cost probably around $50. I can redraw my old schematic to an as built if you are interested in seeing it.
I built it in a Castles of Europe motif tin, hence it's name, "The Crackerbox"
Michael
Hi,
6V6 as a triode sounds very good. I am not sure if you will have enough power with 91dB speakers and SE though. Maybe, depends on your listening habits.
The first scratch built amp I did is an adaptation of a schematic from a 1953 book by the name of "Practical Amplifier Diagrams". Lots of fun and sounds great. I used some found toroids as the output transformers, a power transformer salvaged from a $20 ebay amp and a 6CA4 from the same amp as the rectifier. Tubes are 6N7 and 6V6 and it is push pull. A couple of polypro/oil caps, a surplus buy choke and some miscellaneous parts. Total cost probably around $50. I can redraw my old schematic to an as built if you are interested in seeing it.
I built it in a Castles of Europe motif tin, hence it's name, "The Crackerbox"
Michael
Attachments
DAMN!
ok, so it is push-pull that is the thing for my speakers then......
well, no problem. I just have to find some new schematics to stea...... eh, apply
the most annoying thing is that i know what i want, something like this:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/r.godmaire/VDV3070.htm
read the last 3 or 4 paragraphs and you will find the reason im hooked on it.
however it seems to cost a shitload in parts. And im not going to throw that amount of cash away on something i might fail to complete, because it seems a bit complex.
SO!
does anyone have some advice on a machine in push-pull that will cost about 3-400 euros in tubes+transformers? i am searching myself, but it would feel better to have something someone has already built and tested...
As high quality as possible ofcourse
preferably no kits.
thanks in advance guys
ok, so it is push-pull that is the thing for my speakers then......
well, no problem. I just have to find some new schematics to stea...... eh, apply
the most annoying thing is that i know what i want, something like this:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/r.godmaire/VDV3070.htm
read the last 3 or 4 paragraphs and you will find the reason im hooked on it.
however it seems to cost a shitload in parts. And im not going to throw that amount of cash away on something i might fail to complete, because it seems a bit complex.
SO!
does anyone have some advice on a machine in push-pull that will cost about 3-400 euros in tubes+transformers? i am searching myself, but it would feel better to have something someone has already built and tested...
As high quality as possible ofcourse
preferably no kits.
thanks in advance guys
here are the schematics for the slightly altered 6v6 amp. i have less efficient speakers than you (88db i think) and it is pretty much the exact volume i wanted. i usually listen around 70% - 80% which is just loud enough to make it hard to hear someone talking in the room. i do live in a tiny apartment though...
Attachments
kmj said:
I'm next to clueless regarding tubes, but I'm wondering whether it would be possible to just parallel two output tubes instead of going to push-pull?
And another question in dimensioning tube amps: it's easy enough to calculate how much voltage swing you need for the ouput tube. But what about maximal output impedance of the driving tube? It's minimal standing current? It's all about the Miller capacitance of the ouput tube, I assume?
Regards,
Peter Jacobi
havn't got a faintest......
what i know i have learned from this:
http://www.boozhoundlabs.com/howto/
but i'm learning......
I am currently waiting on some books by Menno ven der Veen and Morgan Jones.
It's funny. when it comes to studying that which you are supposed to do, one can be lazy as hell. But when it comes to hifi, THEN you spend days and days peering over a book (and forgetting about school).
what i know i have learned from this:
http://www.boozhoundlabs.com/howto/
but i'm learning......
I am currently waiting on some books by Menno ven der Veen and Morgan Jones.
It's funny. when it comes to studying that which you are supposed to do, one can be lazy as hell. But when it comes to hifi, THEN you spend days and days peering over a book (and forgetting about school).
Perhaps not. I have quite normal speakers, and I'm very happy with my 2-3W SE amp. I would probably use a "real" triode instead of a 6V6 - I don't think the Chinese 2A3 tubes cost a lot (and they sound fine).kmj said:
My amp is similar to the schematic you found, except I use two 6SN7 sections instead of one. Schematic here: http://stiftsbogtrykkeriet.dk/~mcs/2A3.gif
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
Hi Peter, how are you?
Obviously you can parallel two output tubes instead of going to P-P. It depends of what you want. In that follows I’ll only refer to class A amp.
PP has usually less even order distortion ( but someone like it).
With parallel single ended, PSE, you avoid the phase splitter
With PP you usually can buy a cheap output transformer ( there is no constant flux in the core)
These are only a few differences but there are many others.
In tube amp frequency response is not so important . Once it is in the range 20Hz to 20 kHz (-3db) it is good. Usually tube amp have no or little NFB so have no or little problem with stability, etc.
I think more important of miller effect in the driver is the need of low output impedance and good current capabilities when the output tubes shows grid current or when are driven in class A2.
Minimal standing current (working point) of the driver is also calculated from its curves depending on swing need ( we are in class A, remember?)
I think in this forum, many guys can tell you the story far better than me.
Bye, Bye
Federico
Obviously you can parallel two output tubes instead of going to P-P. It depends of what you want. In that follows I’ll only refer to class A amp.
PP has usually less even order distortion ( but someone like it).
With parallel single ended, PSE, you avoid the phase splitter
With PP you usually can buy a cheap output transformer ( there is no constant flux in the core)
These are only a few differences but there are many others.
In tube amp frequency response is not so important . Once it is in the range 20Hz to 20 kHz (-3db) it is good. Usually tube amp have no or little NFB so have no or little problem with stability, etc.
I think more important of miller effect in the driver is the need of low output impedance and good current capabilities when the output tubes shows grid current or when are driven in class A2.
Minimal standing current (working point) of the driver is also calculated from its curves depending on swing need ( we are in class A, remember?)
I think in this forum, many guys can tell you the story far better than me.
Bye, Bye
Federico
Oh, look what pops up when you use the searchfunction... My OLD thread .
It was a few years ago but those lovely tubes are still haunting me so I'm always on the lookout for different deals even if the stuff get stored for a year or more. Anyway, A guy offered to sell me a pair of Opt from an Andersson 60 (more expensive version of edison 60), this transformer is made for 8ohm loads and has 4x600ohm primaries. This should make it a 9,6kohm primary, right?
Along with some capacitors I get quite a lot of EL34 tubes but some say that 9,6K PP is too high for EL34 but that triodestrapped kt66 should be better.
What other options are there?
best regards.
.It was a few years ago but those lovely tubes are still haunting me so I'm always on the lookout for different deals even if the stuff get stored for a year or more. Anyway, A guy offered to sell me a pair of Opt from an Andersson 60 (more expensive version of edison 60), this transformer is made for 8ohm loads and has 4x600ohm primaries. This should make it a 9,6kohm primary, right?
Along with some capacitors I get quite a lot of EL34 tubes but some say that 9,6K PP is too high for EL34 but that triodestrapped kt66 should be better.
What other options are there?
best regards.
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