• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Douk EL34 Amp kit

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Hi, folks. I have ben lurking for a while and have decided to take the plunge into Valve amplifiers. I thought this kit seems good value and therefore worth a risk as a first project. I fully understand that as a cheap kit it is not going to be earth shattering but I thought that it would give me an opportunity to try things out.

Obviously it will come with cheap components so my first question is are there any particular components that would make a big difference if I bought something better? I was initially thinking about the coupling capacitors. Are there other passive components worth changing?

What is the opinion on the feedback element? Would an alternative value make significant difference? should I try some alternative values here if so what should I try?

Any suggestions gratefully received

Thanks AVO111

DJ040_??.jpg
 
Without seeing the specifics of the kit it is hard to advise, do you have a link?
I use a similar circuit chinese amp.
I ended up having to replace the power switch which was flimsy and stopped turning off. The speaker terminals did not match the chassis holes and could have shorted.
the volume pot is small and flimsy.
The transformer as supplied ran hot and I replaced it with one from Douk
 
As already mentioned here, the output transformer of cheap kits is usually the component that mostly limits the performance.
Those OPTs look a little bit undersized, but I suggest you first build the amp as it is and make modifications later when you know what the real performance is.
 
Folks,

I have just found another schematic for what appears to be the same kit. The principal difference is in the input stage where the 6N9P is wired as a two stage rather than the first schematic that seems to wire both triodes in parallel. Can you advise what the effective difference will be with these two different approaches to the input stage? I note this second version has a bias connection to the 6N9P heater, is this something that should be included in the first schematic as the difference between anode and heater voltage will be the same in both designs or am I missing something?

EL34Schematic_zps40cbf7a4.jpg
 
Those two 6N9P are connected as a SRPP circuit. It's main advantage is lower output impedance than what typical common cathode amplifier has.
In this case there is no obvious benefit achieved, because the output stage is pentode connected EL34, which can be well driven with a single 6N9P.
 
Hi, folks. I have ben lurking for a while and have decided to take the plunge into Valve amplifiers. I thought this kit seems good value and therefore worth a risk as a first project. I fully understand that as a cheap kit it is not going to be earth shattering but I thought that it would give me an opportunity to try things out.

Obviously it will come with cheap components so my first question is are there any particular components that would make a big difference if I bought something better? I was initially thinking about the coupling capacitors. Are there other passive components worth changing?

What is the opinion on the feedback element? Would an alternative value make significant difference? should I try some alternative values here if so what should I try?

Any suggestions gratefully received

Thanks AVO111

View attachment 512065
I assembled this circuit before exactly the one you posted and my comments is not as good as this one which I assembled recently.
 

Attachments

  • UsedEL34SE.jpg
    UsedEL34SE.jpg
    109.3 KB · Views: 893
What you have in the 2nd schematic is a SRPP input stage with a lowish output impedance. There's no bias connection to the tube, just a poorly designed psu which fires anything in the box. There should be a separated ps for the heaters.
The sonic difference between a SRPP and a pse stage is huge. Although the first one is quite popular, personally I don't like it.
 
What you have in the 2nd schematic is a SRPP input stage with a lowish output impedance. There's no bias connection to the tube, just a poorly designed psu which fires anything in the box. There should be a separated ps for the heaters.
The sonic difference between a SRPP and a pse stage is huge. Although the first one is quite popular, personally I don't like it.
That is your own opinion. I'm more concerned about the outcome.
 
Ok celestar what is your concern about the outcome? I would like to build this so the smoke stays in the wires and the sound is as good as possible ! We are already up to 3 alternate schematics using pretty much the same components in the kit! As I said I am on a mission to learn here and quite interested in building in options so I can hear differences. Do not worry about my safety I am quite experienced in dealing with potentially lethal voltages ranging from live 3 phase to 30kv neon transformers driving a Jacobs ladder! Seriously options for learning are good for me here!

AVO111


Caber :)
 
Ok celestar what is your concern about the outcome? I would like to build this so the smoke stays in the wires and the sound is as good as possible ! We are already up to 3 alternate schematics using pretty much the same components in the kit! As I said I am on a mission to learn here and quite interested in building in options so I can hear differences. Do not worry about my safety I am quite experienced in dealing with potentially lethal voltages ranging from live 3 phase to 30kv neon transformers driving a Jacobs ladder! Seriously options for learning are good for me here!

AVO111


Caber :)
I'm happy with the sound outcome with this circuit. Previously was using 6SL7 but change to this circuit using 6SN7, it was better.
 
It's arrived:)

Folks,

Well the kit turned up today having had a nice tour of the far East thanks to mis routing by Fed-Ex! Overall it seems OK, many of the comments I have seen about build quality seem fixed and it even comes with a well ventilated bottom plate. Here are some pictures of the components attached ( i hope:)

First question is the capacitors. The two yellow ones are the coupling between stages. They are labeled BENNIL will they be OK or what would you suggest I should get to replace these? The carbon resistors seem all to be brown where I am expecting the tolerance band. does this likely mean they are 20 % if so should I get tighter tolerance for any specific resistors in the schematic?

I am planning to build the one I first posted however I want to add additional line inputs so I was proposing just to add a rotary switch and some more RCA connectors.

i am also wondering about adding an alternate value resistor in the feedback loop just to see the audible difference. Any suggestions what I should have as alternate for the 2K in the schematic?

Thanks AVO 111
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0673.jpg
    IMG_0673.jpg
    492.3 KB · Views: 751
  • IMG_0676.JPG
    IMG_0676.JPG
    847.6 KB · Views: 701
  • IMG_0677.JPG
    IMG_0677.JPG
    885.2 KB · Views: 705
  • DJ040_??.jpg
    DJ040_??.jpg
    91.1 KB · Views: 460
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.