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Getting 60W from 6C33C pushpull
Getting 60W from 6C33C pushpull
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Old 23rd August 2015, 09:07 AM   #11
ballpencil is offline ballpencil  Indonesia
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Pdiss max is 60W if you use both heaters.
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Old 23rd August 2015, 09:16 AM   #12
jazbo8 is offline jazbo8
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Getting 60W from 6C33C pushpull
Then why does the Pdiss curve drop down to 30W at 250V? That is for both heaters.
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Old 23rd August 2015, 09:29 AM   #13
ballpencil is offline ballpencil  Indonesia
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If you keep Pdiss below 30W, your max plate voltage is 450V.
Pdiss above 30W, then max plate voltage is 250V.
This is from an extended datasheet i have.
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Old 23rd August 2015, 09:51 AM   #14
jazbo8 is offline jazbo8
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Getting 60W from 6C33C pushpull
Ok, that makes sense, thanks! Isn't 50W still a bit high for class AB2 operation?
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Old 23rd August 2015, 01:02 PM   #15
Alastair E is offline Alastair E  Wales
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Its possibly a little high--But reducing the current and therefore the dissipation, and the H3 rises....
--If possible, its best to keep this low before any FB is applied.....

6C33 is tough as old boots--it'll take it--IF You can stand the heat! Main issues can be the tube Sockets--not the tube.....

Need to use Very heavy copper multi-strand, pref silicone covered, and well soldered to socket--to act as heatsinks!
--During its military service it was found (allegedly) that the 6C33 didnt usually ever give trouble--The Sockets on the other hand.......
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Old 23rd August 2015, 05:00 PM   #16
atmasphere is offline atmasphere  United States
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Quite literally the tube was made for a socket design that simply does not support the filament current. As a result in the original Russian spec sheets it was recommended that the socket be replaced with the tube- every 750 hours

Of course the military could afford that. In the old days (we were the first to use the tube in the US) the socket was supplied with the tube. To get the best life:

1) make sure that the hole in the chassis is larger than the base of the tube to allow air flow
2) install Teflon washers between the chassis and the socket (assuming the socket is placed below the sheet metal) to allow air flow. Teflon will allow you to tighten the retaining nuts without fracturing the ceramic as easily. Use self-locking nuts but not NyLocs!
3) surround the socket location with holes in the sheet metal (or slots), also the bottom cover should have similar perforations.
4)Use silver solder (800 F) for the filament connections. Its a good idea to install Teflon tubing over the filament wiring to prevent it melting and shorting (Silicon insulation as Alastair pointed out is a good idea)
5) if you can fabricate a tin-plated heatsink for each filament pin on the socket they will last longer.

6) a fan is not a bad idea...
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Old 23rd August 2015, 11:44 PM   #17
Koonw is offline Koonw
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When you buy 6c33c socket esp larger qty, you should ask or buy a sample to check. The vital component matters is the clamping U spring for tube receptor. Make sure they are genuine steel or better (very strong and tight). Run a 24V DC fan with 8V or so is very quiet and effective, must have ventilation gap or holes on top surround the tubes.

Last edited by Koonw; 23rd August 2015 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 24th August 2015, 06:16 AM   #18
CijTele52 is offline CijTele52  United States
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Thanks guys for tips. I'm planning to use Lundahl 1627 PP for the OPT.

To dealing with heat, I'm thinking about having fans below the chassis to blow hot air up.
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Old 24th August 2015, 06:23 AM   #19
matejsirk is offline matejsirk  Slovenia
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Getting 60W from 6C33C pushpull
Default Sockets

I still have some sockets for sell:


http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-...ocate-new.html
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Old 28th March 2018, 05:03 PM   #20
multi-volti is offline multi-volti  United States
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It would seem 12.6 V 3.3 A for filaments would then be preferable to 6.3@6.6, given the socket complaints...
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