Sch3mat1c said:
Okay. Thanks for spelling that out. But from my perspective, I'm spending over $500 for a dual one-watt per channel headphone amplifier (no power supply, LEDs, etc.). $20 worth of silver wire isn't going to "break the bank" here. If I don't tinker with some silver wire for this project probably never would. Also, I appreciate that the silver is a slightly better thermal conductor as well. I'd try LN, if it was easier to obtain and work with. I had thought of using Peltier coolers though... One more for ya though, how about liquid Teflon or Fluorinert ($70 for 100ml). Guess such stuff is used to cool such things as the Cray Supercomputers. Some people have used it for cooling their modified home computer. (Reviewing this information again, I guess they cool the Fluorinert with LN : ).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
JF
Hi,
John,
If it's not too much trouble, build the amp with standard hook-up CU wire first than modify it using high-grade silver....
If your speaker are up to it, you should hear the differences quite clearly.
OTOH, you can experiment with silver ICs and Sp cable already...There's more to silver than conductivity alone.
Metals do have a sound of their own...
Cheers,
John,
If it's not too much trouble, build the amp with standard hook-up CU wire first than modify it using high-grade silver....
If your speaker are up to it, you should hear the differences quite clearly.
OTOH, you can experiment with silver ICs and Sp cable already...There's more to silver than conductivity alone.
Metals do have a sound of their own...
Cheers,
But only one Frank...
There are several Johns here. Honestly, I think I only want to build one amplifier. As long as it works, I'll be happy with however it sounds. Next project though will be a good power supply or a trickle charger (I expect only 5 hours on twelve 9V batteries). I'm going with silver wire, RCAs, headphone jack, and switch contacts. (It's for Senn HD650's.) As mentioned before, I like the layout of our house, but there isn't a great place to get stereo imaging setup perfectly (okay, probably not the best excuse--but I'll see how this headphone amp works first). And my Yamaha minisystem works fine in the office (especially, now with the isolation transformer).
JF
There are several Johns here. Honestly, I think I only want to build one amplifier. As long as it works, I'll be happy with however it sounds. Next project though will be a good power supply or a trickle charger (I expect only 5 hours on twelve 9V batteries). I'm going with silver wire, RCAs, headphone jack, and switch contacts. (It's for Senn HD650's.) As mentioned before, I like the layout of our house, but there isn't a great place to get stereo imaging setup perfectly (okay, probably not the best excuse--but I'll see how this headphone amp works first). And my Yamaha minisystem works fine in the office (especially, now with the isolation transformer).
JF
johnferrier said:
No, the LN temperature (circa 78K IIRC) is required to produce superconductivity. You can go lower, say, helium,
but higher and it won't conduct at all (such as the high-temp superconductors are).I won't dare get into "sound of metals" crap because there is absolutely no measured reason for it. You can believe in $500 cables all you want...
Tim
A part of sound is the way you treat your DIY-built system.
If you hear some sort of silver cable sound better than other metals, just use it. It may be pure psychoacoustics. And what ? You still "hear" that difference - with your mind.
And that's the most important, that your system fits your needs at any cost you can afford.
I don't understand for example, why the AN Ongaku should be warmed 12 hours before use (at a high-end show was this the case)... it's also psychoacoustics, nothing else, I think. But still makes you feel better, the knowledge, that you're working with some kind of special materials now
If you hear some sort of silver cable sound better than other metals, just use it. It may be pure psychoacoustics. And what ? You still "hear" that difference - with your mind.
And that's the most important, that your system fits your needs at any cost you can afford.
I don't understand for example, why the AN Ongaku should be warmed 12 hours before use (at a high-end show was this the case)... it's also psychoacoustics, nothing else, I think. But still makes you feel better, the knowledge, that you're working with some kind of special materials now
I have experimented with various silver wires as interconnects over time and with various components but I have never been totally satisfied. Initially sound seems clearer and more detailed but over time I start getting a bit of listening fatigue and the upper mids sound too forward. I think the best sound for me is very thin solid copper.
fdegrove said:Hi,
What do you want to do with them?
I really don't see any use related to audio...
If you want bare silver wire and PTFE tubing then that's no big deal, but rods of silver? I thought that stuff was for silversmiths...
Cheers,
Its for a bunch of diy attenuators. Since i have a cnc milling center, i figured it would pay off to make a few myself. Elna is waaay overpriced, and i just dont like the chineese plastic version.
The silver rod would be for the contacts...machined from solid silver, maybe its nessecery to gold plate them as well, time will show if i turn the volume up and down often enough to avoid oxydation of the raw silver.
Cheers
Magura
Exactly...
some guys here made a blind listening test with two amps, one of them fully silver wired inside, the other not.
Even he had the silver version - and therefore accomoddated to it's silver voice - he missed from 10 listening samples 6 times (!) that it was HIS silver stuff.
That was a really lol, how he "really hears" that silver's working
(On the other hand, there are some fully silver equipments too, but their amazing sound depends - I think - on the circuit diagrams and the quality of each part).
some guys here made a blind listening test with two amps, one of them fully silver wired inside, the other not.
Even he had the silver version - and therefore accomoddated to it's silver voice - he missed from 10 listening samples 6 times (!) that it was HIS silver stuff.
That was a really lol, how he "really hears" that silver's working
(On the other hand, there are some fully silver equipments too, but their amazing sound depends - I think - on the circuit diagrams and the quality of each part).
Hi,
Magura,
That's a courageous idea.
Have you checked with RS Components?
They should have something along what you're looking for but I think they call it "a silver billet"
I think it's best not to gold plate the contact points, the rotary action will clean them automatically.
Good luck with the project,
Magura,
That's a courageous idea.
Have you checked with RS Components?
They should have something along what you're looking for but I think they call it "a silver billet"
I think it's best not to gold plate the contact points, the rotary action will clean them automatically.
Good luck with the project,
fdegrove said:Hi,
Magura,
That's a courageous idea.
Have you checked with RS Components?
They should have something along what you're looking for but I think they call it "a silver billet"
Good luck with the project,
I am actually that desperate that i have checked RS well knowing that if they had such, it would cost an arm and a leg
Why courageous BTW?
It seems pretty straight forward. Only hurdle i see is that its time consuming, but considering the fact that i need 2 sets of tripples, (wich will set me back something like 600usd), and that they can be made better than commercial offerings (please correct me if im wrong, but i believe elma's are the best)...it seems like a sound (pun intended)project...no?
Cheers
Magura
I used Wonder Wire for chassis connections in my last project with great results!
It might be a good selection to try for your PIP project. It is 19ga pure copper core with a pure silver outter coating, and Teflon insulator. Best of both worlds.
I bought mine from Percy Audio http://www.percyaudio.com/
-David
It might be a good selection to try for your PIP project. It is 19ga pure copper core with a pure silver outter coating, and Teflon insulator. Best of both worlds.
I bought mine from Percy Audio http://www.percyaudio.com/
-David
Hmmm...
I can say two things to this.
1) Any kind of cable or wire conducts better if it's from one and only material. So, pure silver or pure copper but even pure iron will conduct better, than any of their mixes. See above.
2) The most of the induction (I hope that's it, I mean the thing which we measure in Ampers) .. well it goes as frequencies rise, more and more on the outer side of the wire, so in this relation, silver coated copper seems to be the best compromise in price/performance.
Now, we have only one more task to do: these two arguments are against eachother. Which is more effective (which of them is more important?)
As far as I know, I'm right with these. I hope.
I can say two things to this.
1) Any kind of cable or wire conducts better if it's from one and only material. So, pure silver or pure copper but even pure iron will conduct better, than any of their mixes. See above.
2) The most of the induction (I hope that's it, I mean the thing which we measure in Ampers) .. well it goes as frequencies rise, more and more on the outer side of the wire, so in this relation, silver coated copper seems to be the best compromise in price/performance.
Now, we have only one more task to do: these two arguments are against eachother. Which is more effective (which of them is more important?)
As far as I know, I'm right with these. I hope.
Magura,
What make - model of machining centre do you have out of interest?
I was reading a post on here a few days ago about the phasing out of lead based solders in Europe. Is 2% silver the ideal for a eutectic solder? RS sell such a mix, containing lead, by Multicore, called Low Melting Point. It's about 26 pounds for a spool I think!
In the description they say the 2% content is easily enough to prevent silver leaching. Are 4% solders a lot more?
I could use some general advice on which to choose. I would prefer to start using the lead free spools so I can get used to them before I'm forced to. My ultra cool, make you a cup of tea, digital, thermostatically controlled station will be arriving in a few days so I'm all ready to buy some nice new solder to go with it.
When I was a kid I used to chew solder and air rifle pellets! Hopefully I didn't eat too much of it! The water pipes to every house around here are solid lead. The crystalline desposits in them have probably formed a moderately good barrier by now. We'll be replacing ours none the less.
Have any of you ever used cables by Van Den Hul? I heard the D102 Mk3 was meant to be particularly good for how much it costs. It uses a linear carbon layer around the main conductor.
John
(Who just emptied 203 pounds out of his account and into RS's)
What make - model of machining centre do you have out of interest?
I was reading a post on here a few days ago about the phasing out of lead based solders in Europe. Is 2% silver the ideal for a eutectic solder? RS sell such a mix, containing lead, by Multicore, called Low Melting Point. It's about 26 pounds for a spool I think!
In the description they say the 2% content is easily enough to prevent silver leaching. Are 4% solders a lot more?
I could use some general advice on which to choose. I would prefer to start using the lead free spools so I can get used to them before I'm forced to. My ultra cool, make you a cup of tea, digital, thermostatically controlled station will be arriving in a few days so I'm all ready to buy some nice new solder to go with it.
When I was a kid I used to chew solder and air rifle pellets!
Hopefully I didn't eat too much of it! The water pipes to every house around here are solid lead. The crystalline desposits in them have probably formed a moderately good barrier by now. We'll be replacing ours none the less.Have any of you ever used cables by Van Den Hul? I heard the D102 Mk3 was meant to be particularly good for how much it costs. It uses a linear carbon layer around the main conductor.
John
(Who just emptied 203 pounds out of his account and into RS's)
For those intrepid hunters of precious metals, in the Uk there is this company.
www.jblundell.co.uk
No doubt there are many others.
Have fun
Setmenu
www.jblundell.co.uk
No doubt there are many others.
Have fun
Setmenu
RioGrande, in the US, is another well respected jeweller's supplier. They have catalogs full of precious metals, gem stones and tools related to their forming - pin point sized hydrogen welding torches for example.
Since they have to supply manufacturers, I would expect their prices to be quite respectable. Regardless of what you're using their products for, they can't really be sure whether they're sending it to the finest jewellers or someone who doesn't care what grade silver he gets. So you can be assured of getting what you ask for.
John
Since they have to supply manufacturers, I would expect their prices to be quite respectable. Regardless of what you're using their products for, they can't really be sure whether they're sending it to the finest jewellers or someone who doesn't care what grade silver he gets. So you can be assured of getting what you ask for.
John
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