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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: WA
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Quote:
![]() JF |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
John, If it's not too much trouble, build the amp with standard hook-up CU wire first than modify it using high-grade silver.... If your speaker are up to it, you should hear the differences quite clearly. OTOH, you can experiment with silver ICs and Sp cable already...There's more to silver than conductivity alone. Metals do have a sound of their own... Cheers,
__________________
Frank |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: WA
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There are several Johns here. Honestly, I think I only want to build one amplifier. As long as it works, I'll be happy with however it sounds. Next project though will be a good power supply or a trickle charger (I expect only 5 hours on twelve 9V batteries). I'm going with silver wire, RCAs, headphone jack, and switch contacts. (It's for Senn HD650's.) As mentioned before, I like the layout of our house, but there isn't a great place to get stereo imaging setup perfectly (okay, probably not the best excuse--but I'll see how this headphone amp works first). And my Yamaha minisystem works fine in the office (especially, now with the isolation transformer).
JF |
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#24 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
By the way, you ever get in touch with Dr. C? Quote:
se |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Member
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but higher and it won't conduct at all (such as the high-temp superconductors are).I won't dare get into "sound of metals" crap because there is absolutely no measured reason for it. You can believe in $500 cables all you want... Tim |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
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A part of sound is the way you treat your DIY-built system.
If you hear some sort of silver cable sound better than other metals, just use it. It may be pure psychoacoustics. And what ? You still "hear" that difference - with your mind. And that's the most important, that your system fits your needs at any cost you can afford. I don't understand for example, why the AN Ongaku should be warmed 12 hours before use (at a high-end show was this the case)... it's also psychoacoustics, nothing else, I think. But still makes you feel better, the knowledge, that you're working with some kind of special materials now
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Athens+Addis Ababa
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I have experimented with various silver wires as interconnects over time and with various components but I have never been totally satisfied. Initially sound seems clearer and more detailed but over time I start getting a bit of listening fatigue and the upper mids sound too forward. I think the best sound for me is very thin solid copper.
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#28 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() Tim |
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#29 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Denmark, Viborg
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Quote:
Its for a bunch of diy attenuators. Since i have a cnc milling center, i figured it would pay off to make a few myself. Elna is waaay overpriced, and i just dont like the chineese plastic version. The silver rod would be for the contacts...machined from solid silver, maybe its nessecery to gold plate them as well, time will show if i turn the volume up and down often enough to avoid oxydation of the raw silver. Cheers Magura
__________________
Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
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Exactly...
some guys here made a blind listening test with two amps, one of them fully silver wired inside, the other not. Even he had the silver version - and therefore accomoddated to it's silver voice - he missed from 10 listening samples 6 times (!) that it was HIS silver stuff. That was a really lol, how he "really hears" that silver's working ![]() (On the other hand, there are some fully silver equipments too, but their amazing sound depends - I think - on the circuit diagrams and the quality of each part). |
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