Given the nature of this "place", the obvious suggestion is that you build them yourself. 
However, "plug and play" is available, should construction be more than you want to tackle.
"Gobs" of power are not at your disposal. So, medium efficiency speakers are in order. DECWARE's DM945 or their more "forward" DM946 (depending on taste and listening space) should be fine. Other "off the shelf" products should be OK too. Look for mid 90s sensitivity and a reasonably flat impedance curve.
If the Stereo 20 has not been serviced recently (or not ever) either you or a competent technician should replace all electrolytic capacitors, check coupling capacitors for leakage, and verify the condition, both mechanical and electrical, of resistors. Turning a piece of tubed gear on, after it has been inactive for some time, without taking precautions, frequently leads to damage or outright destruction.
However, "plug and play" is available, should construction be more than you want to tackle."Gobs" of power are not at your disposal. So, medium efficiency speakers are in order. DECWARE's DM945 or their more "forward" DM946 (depending on taste and listening space) should be fine. Other "off the shelf" products should be OK too. Look for mid 90s sensitivity and a reasonably flat impedance curve.
If the Stereo 20 has not been serviced recently (or not ever) either you or a competent technician should replace all electrolytic capacitors, check coupling capacitors for leakage, and verify the condition, both mechanical and electrical, of resistors. Turning a piece of tubed gear on, after it has been inactive for some time, without taking precautions, frequently leads to damage or outright destruction.
I use mine with Altec model 19s on occasion to good effect. It came out of a console with the Troughline tuner and Point one preamp that had Richard Allen 12" full range speakers.
I think a more difficult task is finding a preamp that has low enough gain so that you can use the volume control to any extent. The Stereo 20 has a very sensitive input.
I think a more difficult task is finding a preamp that has low enough gain so that you can use the volume control to any extent. The Stereo 20 has a very sensitive input.
Try to find some Tannoys or somebody with Tannoys so you can try your amp. They are very good, harmonious match. I'm not a big fan of Leak amps. I restored Stereo 20 and TL 50+ and with most speakers they just sound average but strangely they sang with Tannoys like nobody's business . I'm with Eli regarding capacitors . While you can save sometimes/most times the PSU caps I had to replace each end every coupling cap . They leaked dc badly . worst vintage coupling caps in any amp I worked . No wonder the amps are called Leak . Good Luck!
. Good Luck!
Frugel-Horn XL with Alpair 10p or FrugelHorn Mk3 with FE126 are 2 proven diy builds that satisfy Eli's criterion. And they are onlt 2 amoung many.
dave
That's "down low" with the OEM paper in oil (PIO) parts found in Sansui tubed units. They too leak like sieves.
Experience indicates that mixing dielectric types up, when replacing signal caps., is a GOOD idea. Hearing the amp and not the caps. is the goal. A mix of 716P series "Orange Drops" (polypropylene film/aluminum foil/copper leads) and Soviet surplus K40 PIOs will get the job done, nicely. A bonus is the cost is quite reasonable.
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