I ordered a few heatsinks from Landfall systems which Pete Millett designed or helped design.
Pete's got a couple of pics on his website, but I'll attach a couple here w/ a quarter for size reference.
I really like the idea of them. All of the sand in my existing amps is attached to heatsinks inside a chassis w/ little airflow. This gets the heat out the top, along the same lines as having the tubes stick out the top.
They came w/ some useful prototype boards.
Pete's got a couple of pics on his website, but I'll attach a couple here w/ a quarter for size reference.
I really like the idea of them. All of the sand in my existing amps is attached to heatsinks inside a chassis w/ little airflow. This gets the heat out the top, along the same lines as having the tubes stick out the top.
They came w/ some useful prototype boards.
Attachments
It works pretty well up to 10 or 15 watts, gets the heat out of the chassis. The proto board can accommodate up to 8 TO-220 packages which get clipped to the channel.
I have made PCBs for an A2 driver (MOSFET follower), a linear filament regulator, and a Maida-type HV regulator that fit this heatsink.
If anybody wants to design their own board to use this, let me know and I can get you the important dimensions.
Pete
I have made PCBs for an A2 driver (MOSFET follower), a linear filament regulator, and a Maida-type HV regulator that fit this heatsink.
If anybody wants to design their own board to use this, let me know and I can get you the important dimensions.
Pete
I would be interested to know if the Landfall heatsink "rod section" will fit through an existing octal socket chassis hole?
That would seem to be the most useful, as most of us have chassis punches/drills that size.
Sorry, but for most of us outside the US, a quarter coin means little in terms of size.
Gary
That would seem to be the most useful, as most of us have chassis punches/drills that size.
Sorry, but for most of us outside the US, a quarter coin means little in terms of size.
Gary
Just imagine in your mind that the little arrow is pointing the other way. That will make it work correctly.
OK, I will fix it...
Pete
Will the A2 driver PCB's be available for purchase soon? Are they a part of the rollout of the Compactron PCB's?
Okay, we have the heatsink on our website now. If you're interested, you can find the information here:
https://www.landfallsystems.com/?content=products/pmillet/heatsink
https://www.landfallsystems.com/?content=products/pmillet/heatsink
Great idea, very neat.
Out of interest, how is such a heatsink made? Is it two pieces, the channel extrusion and the pin part?
Very nice and a reasonable cost considering the advantages and all the stuff like hardware and little proto-board included. I quite regularly build CCS/voltage regs/MOSFET followers and getting the heat out of the chassis is always a pain. Plus these little hedgehogs look cool.
Cheers
Matt.
Out of interest, how is such a heatsink made? Is it two pieces, the channel extrusion and the pin part?
Very nice and a reasonable cost considering the advantages and all the stuff like hardware and little proto-board included. I quite regularly build CCS/voltage regs/MOSFET followers and getting the heat out of the chassis is always a pain. Plus these little hedgehogs look cool.
Cheers
Matt.
Matt,
Yes, it's two parts, bonded with Loctite 3873. You can find the data sheet here:
https://tds.us.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/170BF74B4B6791B0882571870000D735/$File/3873-EN.pdf
This is a VERY strong, thermally conductive adhesive. It's a real handy addition to a DIYer's tool kit.
Thanks for the link. Very interesting. I use Loctite products regularly, they are the best😊. I have even used some of their stuff to bond the crank pin in a Stirling engine. I didn't know they made such a good thermally conductive product, thank you. I will be getting on to Henkel to see if they do something that can bond Pyrex to an aluminium alloy whilst allowing thermal expansion.
Cheers
Matt.
Cheers
Matt.
Hey Magz,
I haven't had the need to yet, but the data sheet calls for an organic solvent. So I suppose acetone would work well (know a good chemist to check with?)
As long as the adhesive doesn't touch the activator, you can just wipe it off with a toothpick or something. What really helps is to use the Loctite "caulk gun." Loctite Item #1544934 (I'm feeling like a Loctite salesman here). It's a handle and plunger that the 3873 syringe fits on - fits all their 30cc syringes. Really helps control the application. Now, all that said, you're talking about something in the neighborhood of $100 for the adhesive, activator and gun. Also, don't get it unless you're ready to use it, there is a limited shelf life for this stuff. It's probably best to call whoever you're buying it from and check the date on their stock.
I haven't had the need to yet, but the data sheet calls for an organic solvent. So I suppose acetone would work well (know a good chemist to check with?)
As long as the adhesive doesn't touch the activator, you can just wipe it off with a toothpick or something. What really helps is to use the Loctite "caulk gun." Loctite Item #1544934 (I'm feeling like a Loctite salesman here). It's a handle and plunger that the 3873 syringe fits on - fits all their 30cc syringes. Really helps control the application. Now, all that said, you're talking about something in the neighborhood of $100 for the adhesive, activator and gun. Also, don't get it unless you're ready to use it, there is a limited shelf life for this stuff. It's probably best to call whoever you're buying it from and check the date on their stock.- Status
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