SandyG
There are several Types of punch.. Some of the dies are not the threaded type type so they don't make as good a hole; well you have to file the edges.
I will try to find pictures of the different types. The one I showed has all the dies threaded.
I imported mine direct from China, when i imported them the cheaper one's were $40 and the more expensive one's about $60.00. There are several die sets some are perfect for the Russian and Chinese tube sockets, correct sizes.
Phil
There are several Types of punch.. Some of the dies are not the threaded type type so they don't make as good a hole; well you have to file the edges.
I will try to find pictures of the different types. The one I showed has all the dies threaded.
I imported mine direct from China, when i imported them the cheaper one's were $40 and the more expensive one's about $60.00. There are several die sets some are perfect for the Russian and Chinese tube sockets, correct sizes.
Phil
Phil,
You could have gone local. Chassis Punches at the bottom of this page
Hammond Chassis
Cheers,
Ian
You could have gone local. Chassis Punches at the bottom of this page
Hammond Chassis
Cheers,
Ian
thanks Gingertube
I bought a set of the English dies when i was still at school. i only paid $60.00 for a hydraulic punch and a set of dies from 20 to 63. the Chinese ones are similar in design to the Japanese Power man junior hydraulic; they cost $1500 for a set, in a different class to the English made dies. i can easily punch 4 mill aliminium with the Chinese punch sets.
i think the Hammond chassis are less than 1 mill and cost as much as the ones I had made localy using 3-4 mill.
Phil
I bought a set of the English dies when i was still at school. i only paid $60.00 for a hydraulic punch and a set of dies from 20 to 63. the Chinese ones are similar in design to the Japanese Power man junior hydraulic; they cost $1500 for a set, in a different class to the English made dies. i can easily punch 4 mill aliminium with the Chinese punch sets.
i think the Hammond chassis are less than 1 mill and cost as much as the ones I had made localy using 3-4 mill.
Phil
Punch sets
These are the sets I use:
TPA-8 hydraulic hole punch driver tool
TPA-8 hydraulic hole punch driver tool, high quality hydraulic hole punch tool
1, Tool head rotated 360 degrees.
2, Tool body made of aluminium material, super light punch tool.
3, Japanese rubber O rings set.
4, complete kit, plastic carrying case packed.
5, Tools factory standard setting for six round holes: 22mm, 27.5mm, 34mm, 43mm, 49mm, 60.8mm. Other sizes available
Similar hydraulic hole punch tool, TPA-8, WK-8, TP-8C:
phil
you can buy these sets from Hare and Forbes in Australia
These are the sets I use:
TPA-8 hydraulic hole punch driver tool
TPA-8 hydraulic hole punch driver tool, high quality hydraulic hole punch tool
1, Tool head rotated 360 degrees.
2, Tool body made of aluminium material, super light punch tool.
3, Japanese rubber O rings set.
4, complete kit, plastic carrying case packed.
5, Tools factory standard setting for six round holes: 22mm, 27.5mm, 34mm, 43mm, 49mm, 60.8mm. Other sizes available
Similar hydraulic hole punch tool, TPA-8, WK-8, TP-8C:
phil
you can buy these sets from Hare and Forbes in Australia
Attachments
Phil -
I see those on EBay and a few of the larger sets that do the same thing with the threaded punches. They have a few different styles, but all look basically the same. The hand one you have is a bit more pricy but nice looking part.
One thing that I though of was if I still have to drill the pilot hole, so might as well just use the rotabroach to do the right size. One thing about the rotabroach tools is they leave the hole perfect, I would say you don't even need to file it once done, not much of a sharp edge and clean.
More tools to buy it seems
Sandy
I see those on EBay and a few of the larger sets that do the same thing with the threaded punches. They have a few different styles, but all look basically the same. The hand one you have is a bit more pricy but nice looking part.
One thing that I though of was if I still have to drill the pilot hole, so might as well just use the rotabroach to do the right size. One thing about the rotabroach tools is they leave the hole perfect, I would say you don't even need to file it once done, not much of a sharp edge and clean.
More tools to buy it seems
Sandy
Sandy;
Of course dose not matter what tools you use if they do a good Job.
I bought my hydraulic sets from China; only cost $A60.00 each including shipping; I also got some sq dies and dies up to 114 mills for the big computer fans.
The sets i showed have dies that suit the Chinese and Russian Octal sockets and even the sockets for 845's and 811's.
I also have a Japanese hydraulic set; I got from an auction for $20.00 very high quality but new they cost $1500. One dies cost much more than a complete Chinese set.
Look forward to hear you like the sound of your amp.
phil
Of course dose not matter what tools you use if they do a good Job.
I bought my hydraulic sets from China; only cost $A60.00 each including shipping; I also got some sq dies and dies up to 114 mills for the big computer fans.
The sets i showed have dies that suit the Chinese and Russian Octal sockets and even the sockets for 845's and 811's.
I also have a Japanese hydraulic set; I got from an auction for $20.00 very high quality but new they cost $1500. One dies cost much more than a complete Chinese set.
Look forward to hear you like the sound of your amp.
phil
Just got some one of the Hydraulic 15T punch kits, as usual my expectations for the Chinese tools were too high Biggest problem is that threads for the hydraulic ram are cut so bad that the stud holding the punches feels like it's loose enough to pull out. I did punch a 3.5" hole in 1/8" aluminum with no fuss at all and overall not too bad. I'll posts some pics when I get a chance.
Again, it works OK, but when all said and done I still have to drill a large hole for the punches and it's about as much work as using the Rotabroach which don't at all distort the metal and leave a perfect hole.
I will use the kit for some larger holes, but for tube sockets, I think the quick and easy rotabroach is a better option for me.
Back to the Tube Stuff now...
Biggest problem is that threads for the hydraulic ram are cut so bad that the stud holding the punches feels like it's loose enough to pull out. I did punch a 3.5" hole in 1/8" aluminum with no fuss at all and overall not too bad. I'll posts some pics when I get a chance.Again, it works OK, but when all said and done I still have to drill a large hole for the punches and it's about as much work as using the Rotabroach which don't at all distort the metal and leave a perfect hole.
I will use the kit for some larger holes, but for tube sockets, I think the quick and easy rotabroach is a better option for me.
Back to the Tube Stuff now...
Sorry for the late reply on the hole punch - Here is a link to the quick review of the one I received, still not bad for the price...
Hydraulic Hole Punch | GTSparkplugs
Hydraulic Hole Punch | GTSparkplugs
Here are a couple more on progress on the EZ125. I have just about got both amps completed and biased up. Will post some clean pictures shortly. I have set these up to use 5U4GB's instead of solid state with a reduced power output in the 90 watt range due to the big drop in voltage vs. solid state. Rest of the tubes are NOS Raytheon 6SN7GTB's with NOS Raytheon 5U4GB, Raytheon OB2 and for output a quad of JJ KT88's
Sandy
Sandy
Attachments
Hi Sandy;
i have the same Chinese hydraulic punch set; i paid $46 for mine excellent for the large holes.
i use a sheet of wood with a hole cut to suit the larger punch's so they go thru sq. the small dies do not screw onto the bolt so don't always go thru sq and you need to clean the hole.
i also have a more expensive set $65.00 were all the dies screw on to the bolt very good, can cut 4mill and no clean up.
i also have a Greenlee not bad, but in no way as good as the more expensive Chinese set.
the best set i have is made in Japan { power man junior}; in another class to the Greenlee or the Chinese, but they cost $1500; I got my set at an auction for $20.00. even one die costs more than the whole of a Chinese set. What does Greenlee cost? I got mine at an auction for $25.
The Chinese sets have the same thread as the Greenlee, the Japanese Powerman threads are metric.
phil
i have the same Chinese hydraulic punch set; i paid $46 for mine excellent for the large holes.
i use a sheet of wood with a hole cut to suit the larger punch's so they go thru sq. the small dies do not screw onto the bolt so don't always go thru sq and you need to clean the hole.
i also have a more expensive set $65.00 were all the dies screw on to the bolt very good, can cut 4mill and no clean up.
i also have a Greenlee not bad, but in no way as good as the more expensive Chinese set.
the best set i have is made in Japan { power man junior}; in another class to the Greenlee or the Chinese, but they cost $1500; I got my set at an auction for $20.00. even one die costs more than the whole of a Chinese set. What does Greenlee cost? I got mine at an auction for $25.
The Chinese sets have the same thread as the Greenlee, the Japanese Powerman threads are metric.
phil
Yeah with the 5U4GB tubes it's pretty bad, but given that I'm no where near 90 watts when listening I think that it's part of the 'charm' of the tube sound... Well I have a bunch of NOS 5U4GB's and needed to use them The glass looks nice too.
Hpw - Yeah I could try also to phase my resistors to (note carefully chosen word) 'CHANGE' the sound, but I don't buy into any of the divining rod type of tuning. They sound how they sound and get ready for this one, I have tone controls on my preamp so I'm pretty sure I can make the sound enjoyable no matter the source. Poking a bit of fun with some of my truth mixed in
Ran the amps all day with a bunch of different source from Crystal Method to Enya with some Johnny Cash in between and these amps have some punch. They sound very good with string instruments and anything with heavy base. I thing the way they are set up they roll off the top pretty quickly due to output transformer and feedback network, but it's clean and best way to describe it - TUBE ENJOYABLE which is the point. In comparison to the EZ260's that are my favorite sounding amps these sound similar but with a bit less high end.
Do I need close to 100 watts? Nope, I think a real well done pair of KT88 should be enough for my systems. Sadly with all the glass and heat that comes from it here in California it's a warm 82F day...
Sandy
The glass looks nice too. Hpw - Yeah I could try also to phase my resistors to (note carefully chosen word) 'CHANGE' the sound, but I don't buy into any of the divining rod type of tuning. They sound how they sound and get ready for this one, I have tone controls on my preamp so I'm pretty sure I can make the sound enjoyable no matter the source. Poking a bit of fun with some of my truth mixed in
Ran the amps all day with a bunch of different source from Crystal Method to Enya with some Johnny Cash in between and these amps have some punch. They sound very good with string instruments and anything with heavy base. I thing the way they are set up they roll off the top pretty quickly due to output transformer and feedback network, but it's clean and best way to describe it - TUBE ENJOYABLE which is the point. In comparison to the EZ260's that are my favorite sounding amps these sound similar but with a bit less high end.
Do I need close to 100 watts? Nope, I think a real well done pair of KT88 should be enough for my systems. Sadly with all the glass and heat that comes from it here in California it's a warm 82F day...
Sandy
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