Hello guys:
I found a guy who will build an amp for me.
What I want are two SE monoblocks of about 8-10W each with reasonable priced and quality tubes. he suggested 6P3S tubes.
I am looking on some good budget, good sounding (with full range Fostex driver) amp which would suit my task.
I will make the enclosures my self, he will project the amp and build it inside.
Any help appreciated
Danny
I found a guy who will build an amp for me.
What I want are two SE monoblocks of about 8-10W each with reasonable priced and quality tubes. he suggested 6P3S tubes.
I am looking on some good budget, good sounding (with full range Fostex driver) amp which would suit my task.
I will make the enclosures my self, he will project the amp and build it inside.
Any help appreciated
Danny
The 6П3С-E (6p3s-e) is, currently, the best deal available in a 6L6 variant. The supply of Soviet surplus will dry up, but other decent 6L6 variants, like the "reissue" ST bottle TungSol, are in production.
It will be tough to get the power wanted triode wired, unless some Class A2 action is employed. Getting the desired power level out of ultralinear SE should be easy.
It will be tough to get the power wanted triode wired, unless some Class A2 action is employed. Getting the desired power level out of ultralinear SE should be easy.
1625, from what I have heard are excellent if not the best sounding 6L6 variant. They are usually very cheap too, but you need the old style 7 pin sockets, a grid cap, and 12 volts filament. They sell pcbs for them at diytube
Russia made a version r1625, and the r807, it's a 1625 in a old style 5 pin socket. ebay
Russia made a version r1625, and the r807, it's a 1625 in a old style 5 pin socket. ebay
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Thanks guys for the suggestions. Honestly I don't care if its 2W or 200W 
The speakers will be about 98dB/1w/1m so even 1W is enough.
I don't know why I put the value in, perhaps just because we have been talking about that figure. Seem the consumers are still attached to thousands of watts....
I want the amp to be as simple as simple as possible, i.e. as little elements in the signal path as possible.No corrections, only volume knob, thats it.
The speakers will be about 98dB/1w/1m so even 1W is enough.
I don't know why I put the value in, perhaps just because we have been talking about that figure. Seem the consumers are still attached to thousands of watts....
I want the amp to be as simple as simple as possible, i.e. as little elements in the signal path as possible.No corrections, only volume knob, thats it.
In addition to the 6P3S-E that Eli mentioned there's another one from Russia that is an excellent current build tube 6L6WXT+ (6L6GC) with the larger plates for 35w dissipation. I've used NOS 6P3S 6P3S-E and the 6L6WXT+ 6881($) and 6L6GCs (and 807s too) in single ended tube amps I built. They all sound excellent. For budget and more power the 6L6WXT+ $18/tube - again for 400V at the plate and can even go more... if you're running between 300-400v then the 6P3S-E or 6P3S will sound fine too. Once you go up to the 400v B+ (or more) range everything including power & output transformers and capacitors the price starts to climb and I think it's more like exponential rise.. so think about where your want your B+ voltage to be. 6L6 variant will get you where you want with sound AND budget so long as you stay 300-400v B+ and you can even get decent GXSE transformers from Edcor that do a good job and are easy on the wallet. I like catode bias for the power tubes and LED bias for the driver(s) - for driver tube you could go all Russian and get some 6N1-EV there for cheap too and they sound great too. If you go for the 300-400v B+ you will be around 6-7w/ch with UL and will drive you out of the room if you turn it up with your speakers. So good'nuf there.
Cheers,
Bob
Cheers,
Bob
Very good choice for UL SE is Russian 6P45S - very linear with low inner R and output power more 7-8 w. I have and I tried it and sound is really cool.
Good pretubes are, IMO, 5670, 5687, Russian 6S45P, 6S3-4P that are better 6N1-2-3P. Edcor transformers are very suitable, that I have. Very important are type and brands of resistors and capacitors.
Good pretubes are, IMO, 5670, 5687, Russian 6S45P, 6S3-4P that are better 6N1-2-3P. Edcor transformers are very suitable, that I have. Very important are type and brands of resistors and capacitors.
Barackuda,
Since you are going to use high efficiency speakers and low power O/P is not an issue, use triode wired O/P tubes from the 6V6 family. Somebody else said that short of expensive #45 DHTs, triode wired 6V6s yield the best sound in this "2" W. range. I can say that triode wired 6V6 family tubes do sound GOOD.
Since you are going to use high efficiency speakers and low power O/P is not an issue, use triode wired O/P tubes from the 6V6 family. Somebody else said that short of expensive #45 DHTs, triode wired 6V6s yield the best sound in this "2" W. range. I can say that triode wired 6V6 family tubes do sound GOOD.
Thanks guys for the suggestions. We agreed on the 6P3S tubes, as he got them NEW and will include them free in the build. I have no clue about tubes whatsoever. What we agreed on is that I look up some builds, and let him now the details.
So what should I go for? 1 or 2 output tubes? or more? What driver tubes are suitable for the 6P3S tubes (if I understand it right) ?
What would be the physical dimensions of monoblocks with these tubes? As I have to give him the aprox sizes for the chassi that he will build.
Thank you again
Danny
So what should I go for? 1 or 2 output tubes? or more? What driver tubes are suitable for the 6P3S tubes (if I understand it right) ?
What would be the physical dimensions of monoblocks with these tubes? As I have to give him the aprox sizes for the chassi that he will build.
Thank you again
Danny
The popular Tubelab simple SE would work with those tubes and any new production 6L6/EL34 type all the way up to KT-88 and George has a Form here.
That would be One output tube per channel for SE. You can parallel a second tube for double the power, but iisn't that commonly done in SE.
With a smaller (lower voltage) PS trans. 6V6's can be run.
It uses in production driver 12AT7 & rectifier 5AR4/GZ34.
Two output tubes per channel is usually PP and because of greater efficiency results in a lot more power/CH like 20-25/W CH on the smaller plate 6L6 to maybe 30W/CH on the bigger types on cathode bias. Fixed Bias (usually adjustable) can give a bit more power.
PP output trans. of the appropriate wattage and primary impedence are also required.
That would be One output tube per channel for SE. You can parallel a second tube for double the power, but iisn't that commonly done in SE.
With a smaller (lower voltage) PS trans. 6V6's can be run.
It uses in production driver 12AT7 & rectifier 5AR4/GZ34.
Two output tubes per channel is usually PP and because of greater efficiency results in a lot more power/CH like 20-25/W CH on the smaller plate 6L6 to maybe 30W/CH on the bigger types on cathode bias. Fixed Bias (usually adjustable) can give a bit more power.
PP output trans. of the appropriate wattage and primary impedence are also required.
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Does your builder guy wanna do point to point (easy with SE amps)? Some of us traditionalists build with wire. You could go the tubelab route with will get you some mighty fine gear there, but if you want to learn how to build or watch and learn go the point to point route. Just my .02
Cheers,
Bob
Cheers,
Bob
Stick to a single O/P tube in each channel. Even with careful matching, stopping "current hogging" from occurring is tricky business, when power O/P tubes are paralleled. You are using high efficiency speakers and have no need for increased power O/P.
The 6L6 family has comparatively high drive voltage requirements. Triode wired 6L6 family "finals" require a low RP/high gm type, with a substantial μ too. Candidates for the driver tube job include the 6BN4 and the 6GK5.
I would like to see circuitry employing a few dB. of global NFB, to ensure consistent channel to channel behavior. Tubes and O/P "iron" specimens are imperfectly matched, in the real world.
Tubelab's Simple SE board is for a stereoblock. The OP's initial post stated monoblocks. If not for that, I too would "push" the Simple SE.
Parallel SE finals are much more common than one would think. Power hogging from any one tube is matching issues.........I would tend to think, if one uses NOS in parallel you really are throwing craps, even if it's "measured & matched". One you have is a 1941 build with Suzy War-Girl slamming it together, the other a 1949 build with Joey the war veteran perfectionist ''slowly" "crafting" his example. Same tube, identical tube but built under very different circumstances. Solution? Use new....brand new.
I'm pouring thru a schematic of a "tri-power" using 2A3s.....in SE.
____________________________________________________Rick..........
I'm pouring thru a schematic of a "tri-power" using 2A3s.....in SE.
____________________________________________________Rick..........
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Hello guys, thanks for the input.
The builder will go the point-to-point route. He is building amps for over 20 years now, most for guitarists.
He said he has build these before, with the 6P3S tubes, and has proven design. His work is highly regarded over here.
yes I would like monoblocks, as it is for looks and also to place them on each side of the stereo rack (a piece of furniture actually, to please the WAF).
Once I ordered the S5 kit from the states, and the import tax and VAT was the same price as the two kits.... sorry guys but never again ordering from behind the pond. The customs are just too much.
When I get his recommendation, the schematic, i will post it here, so you can have a look.
A link to some nice 6P3S monoblocks would be appreciated to get an idea about the size and looks. Has to pass WAF you know...
really great info over here, I am astounded at the level of knowledge the people are willing to share
The builder will go the point-to-point route. He is building amps for over 20 years now, most for guitarists.
He said he has build these before, with the 6P3S tubes, and has proven design. His work is highly regarded over here.
yes I would like monoblocks, as it is for looks and also to place them on each side of the stereo rack (a piece of furniture actually, to please the WAF).
Once I ordered the S5 kit from the states, and the import tax and VAT was the same price as the two kits.... sorry guys but never again ordering from behind the pond. The customs are just too much.
When I get his recommendation, the schematic, i will post it here, so you can have a look.
A link to some nice 6P3S monoblocks would be appreciated
to get an idea about the size and looks. Has to pass WAF you know...really great info over here, I am astounded at the level of knowledge the people are willing to share
Sorry, Danny!
But I'm afraid tube 6P3S and E is not good choice /it is tube more for guitar and not for Hi-End amplifiers/. There are a lot of tubes for Hi-End with quality for a level higher than 6P3S. I think You can first listen number of really Hi-End amplifiers / KT88, KT120, 6550, 6AS7G, 2A3, 300B, 6S33S, 1625, 1626, 4P1L, 211, 845, GM70..../ and than make Your choice.....
Regards!
But I'm afraid tube 6P3S and E is not good choice /it is tube more for guitar and not for Hi-End amplifiers/. There are a lot of tubes for Hi-End with quality for a level higher than 6P3S. I think You can first listen number of really Hi-End amplifiers / KT88, KT120, 6550, 6AS7G, 2A3, 300B, 6S33S, 1625, 1626, 4P1L, 211, 845, GM70..../ and than make Your choice.....
Regards!
BS! There's nothing wrong with 6P3S-E for a hifi amp. I use them for PP (triode strapped).
jeff
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