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#11 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I agree with Eli, best would be to tear it apart and rewire it better. It's a small, simple amp, so not a huge chore. Worthwhile as a learning exercise, too. Adding a mains ground to the chassis should certainly help. It makes a big difference to my vintage 2 prong tube amps.
I do worry about the full bridge rectifier. Isn't that going to double the B+ voltage? What is the B+ voltage now? Have you measured it?
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Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Switching to full wave rectification doubles the ripple freq., not the nominal rail voltage. Remember, it's a cap. I/P filter. Rail regulation and ripple level improve, tremendously.
Look at the OEM parts list. The filter caps. are shown as 150 WVDC. The OP did well to use higher rated stuff for replacement.
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Eli D. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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#15 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks for all of the suggestions, however I am little intimidated because I don't know nearly half of the changes you are talking about. I'm new to this field. ![]() First things first. How do you recommend properly upgrading to a three prong plug? I assume that I clip out the 'death cap' and connect the new ground wire to the chassis? Should the positive lead then go to the on/off switch? and the neg go to the power transformer? |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
Tubes or SS, some grounding in theory is needed to be an effective tweaker, let alone designing from scratch.
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Eli D. |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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Quote:
But certainly do as the others suggest - FIRST, remove the "death cap" and replace the mains cable with a 3-core one before you make ANY other changes. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Don, from the photo, it looks like the power trafo lam stack is at 90o to the O/P trafo lam stacks.
Fuhz, tell us what the sheet metal is made of. If it's steel, that could be coupling the magnetics' windings
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Eli D. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wellington
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Huh? Oh yeah, you're right. I couldn't see it under the other components. Thanks.
Looks like a case for installing some humbucking coils... the transformers are unshielded, hopefully there's enough room between the windings and the cores for another layer of winding. Humbuckers were quite common back in the days of electro-dynamic (field coil) speakers when the field coil was also used as the choke in the B+ filter. The humbucking winding was on the same bobbin as the field coil. It picked up some of the ripple signal and was connected in series with the voice coil, so that it opposed the ripple signal. In this case, if the hum is definitely coming via magnetic coupling from the mains transformer, I'd try a few turns around the power transformer feeding a few turns around each output transformer. Definitely a "suck it and see" situation, though. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Thanks again for the suggestions guys, Im going to add a 3 prong plug this week and report back...
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