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New semi-custom metal chassis manufacturer

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can the divider can be removed for drilling on the split chassis boxes (split x & split y)?

Absolutely. All the pieces connected with our corner brackets so none are permanently tied/welded together. The boxes are completely disassembled and shipped flat. You can even remove the brackets and slide the divider in and out once the rest of the box is assembled - with the top and bottom removed of course.
 
I work in a building full of engineers. Before the layoffs started there was about 1000 engineers and I am one. One of the catch phrases the managers often throw out is "think outside the box." Well, I'm tired of hearing that one.

I have been building audio devices, solid state, tube, and chip amps, HiFi and MI (musical instrument) for 45+ years. I have built a lot of amps. After you make dozens of amps you run out of places to put them all. You can't stack them on top of each other. Why????? Because the tubes and transformers are "OUTSIDE OF THE BOX." So, I believe it is time to THINK INSIDE OF THE BOX.

I would like to make some amps that are rack mountable, or installable inside a wooden box to look like a 1950's Fisher receiver. After a few emails with Dave at Landfall, I have a box. I don't have the time to build it yet, and the Edcors are still weeks away, but I had to set some "stuff" inside the box and take a few pictures.

The compleded P-P amp will resemble this mock-up and make about 100 to 125 WPC. Once all the "right stuff" is here and assembly starts, I will create a new thread here in the "tubes" forum and it will be done on video and placed on Youtube.
 

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I think a higher level of cleverness is involved trying to get everything to fit inside the box once you've cleverly thought outside of it.

I got my landfall box a few days ago and there's a high level of fit and finish here. I can't wait to ruin it with a walking drill bit once I figure out a way to get everything to fit inside.
 
I can't wait to ruin it with a walking drill bit

I know that feeling.....and I will wait. I fear that the box will never look as nice as it does now. At least here you don't ruin the whole box with one screw up, just one replaceable piece.

I think a higher level of cleverness is involved trying to get everything to fit inside the box once you've cleverly thought outside of it.

The high level thinking started several weeks ago, followed by several exchanges of cad drawings between me and Dave at Landfall. There will be more "inside the box" designs to come including the SSE and TSE, and there just might be a "Split X/Y" box with two internal dividers.

I think there is a limit on just how big an amp you can put inside the box before the whole thing just melts down. So, I decided to start with a big one. In reality, the box size was determined by the use of the biggest Edcor OPT's they make. I will start at 100 WPC and dial it up or down based on temperature measurements.
 
For those who are plagued with walking drill bits, try to get your hands on some Black & Decker "Bullet" bits. Think brad point bit for sheet metal. These cut out a disc of material, and have a pointed head for better guidance. There's also a lot less cleanup after the hole is drilled.
 
Yes, those bits work well, as well as a good center punch. The Unibit is also the best bit for clean burr free hole too.

For tube hole I have had stellar results with the Blair Rotabroach's. I use these for my automotive projects but when doing larger hole for Tube sockets and such. These things cut clean, but you have to watch out when first starting them, the trick is to drill a 1/8" hole for the pilot. They also have individual bits in many sizes too.

GTSparkplugs | Rotabroach Tool

I say this too having trashed enough projects with the spinning out of control drill bit and say too that I am happy about these new cases in that I can replace one part if I blow it and not have to do the bondo and paint repair :)

Sandy
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2004
I like the idea, all you need now is a cool front panel with some nice looking knobs. And I guess you also need a bit of light, those Fisher receivers look cool in a dark room. A transparent or semi - transparent top may work to, though nothing beats the looks of fine wood.
 

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Unibits need a little help to center properly. I try to drill a pilot hole a little smaller than the narrowest portion of the bit to help keep it from wandering (the bullet drills come in handy). Securely clamping the work piece also helps.

Edit - I never heard of the Rotabroach before - looks interesting.
 
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Unibits need a little help to center properly. I try to drill a pilot hole a little smaller than the narrowest portion of the bit to help keep it from wandering (the bullet drills come in handy). Securely clamping the work piece also helps.

Edit - I never heard of the Rotabroach before - looks interesting.
Yep agree on the pilot hole for the Unibit.

I found the Rotabroach's by accident when looking for a specific size hole saw for a car project. These cut clean, and are not too much more then a hole saw kit.

Sandy
 
I work in a building full of engineers. Before the layoffs started there was about 1000 engineers and I am one. One of the catch phrases the managers often throw out is "think outside the box." Well, I'm tired of hearing that one.

I have been building audio devices, solid state, tube, and chip amps, HiFi and MI (musical instrument) for 45+ years. I have built a lot of amps. After you make dozens of amps you run out of places to put them all. You can't stack them on top of each other. Why????? Because the tubes and transformers are "OUTSIDE OF THE BOX." So, I believe it is time to THINK INSIDE OF THE BOX.

I would like to make some amps that are rack mountable, or installable inside a wooden box to look like a 1950's Fisher receiver. After a few emails with Dave at Landfall, I have a box. I don't have the time to build it yet, and the Edcors are still weeks away, but I had to set some "stuff" inside the box and take a few pictures.

The compleded P-P amp will resemble this mock-up and make about 100 to 125 WPC. Once all the "right stuff" is here and assembly starts, I will create a new thread here in the "tubes" forum and it will be done on video and placed on Youtube.
My usual answer is " I have too many cats at home . Thinking in the box is job one at my house." It scares managers to see engineers with a sense of humor . Along time ago in college I was thought by my prof that those who can do those who can't manage .
 
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I've found the set of Rotabroach cutters shown below to be real handy. Keep an eye out for deals. I got these on Amazon for 1/2 the retail price. It's a set of 16 ranging in size from 1/4" to 3/4". The lube stick is worth getting too.

Carbide cutters are another great option. Blair makes these as do Klein, Ideal and several others. They generally range in price from about $15 to about $40 depending on size.

We've found cutters like these to work very well in the thick aluminum.

Also (and I've read this in several other places on the forum), get a drill press if you can. Even a small cheap one will be better than none. I've seen small ones for less than $70 and they're big enough for most of your chassis work.
 

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The Blair bits in the picture are more like augmented hole saws that really cut rather than tear and maim. Rotabroach has a line of this sort of cutter as well, no doubt cheaper than the actual Rotabroach bits. Ebay has the Blair cutters, though there may be cheaper places to find them.
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2004
Not everybody has the space for a drill press. I always say: if you want professional looks, go to a professional. Or become a professional yourself, a thing I'm not inclined to do. All my DIY chassis have unperfect cuts but you really have to look closely to find the imperfections and for that you need a good set of lights. I propose one thing, listen to music with dim lights. Problem solved. Woman not happy? Get a divorce, another problem solved. :)
 
The Carbide Hole saws are similar to a few manufacturers. I have never used them, but will be adding them to the tool box. The Rotabroach's are very good. I think they Rotabroach's also have many more individual sizes then the hole saw style.

I have a small and a larger Rotabroach kit that I picked up from Amazon too (Way cheeper then the Blair Site), they didn't have the masterkit at the time I purchased them, but it looks like is a good way to go to get a lot of bits.

Sandy
 
I have a small and a larger Rotabroach kit that I picked up from Amazon too (Way cheeper then the Blair Site)

I looked at the Blair site when you first posted about these, but couldn't swallow the price. I just ordered both sets from Amazon.

Also (and I've read this in several other places on the forum), get a drill press if you can. Even a small cheap one will be better than none.

I agree, but the cheap green one that is found at discount stores (I got one at Big Lots) IS less than worthless. There is so much slop in the head that you will have walking and broken drill bits. At some speeds the vibration is so bad that the drill bit looks like a blur.

All my DIY chassis have unperfect cuts

Many of mine do too. I have resorted to the belt sander, the sandblaster, and liberal coats of textured paint to hide my mistakes.
 
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