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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Flanders
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Quote:
The heaters can be left floating but some prefer connecting them to the cathode. Don't forget,you need a neg.tension (stable) as a reference voltage. The neg.out in the original is wrong,is connected to the base of the transistor,has to be the emitter. Mona |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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I don't really need the negative bias supply, as I will
Be just using this for a general bench power supply. I could go ahead and add it for testing power amp curcuits using fixed bias. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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I think I've decided to go a different route,I found an article in AudioXpress on regulated supplies and found one that's a better performer,and has been tested. I've re-drawn the schematic for expresspcb. The author didn't mention lifting the heater on the pass tube,so I will do that if it's needed.
Last edited by denny9167; 31st December 2012 at 12:47 AM. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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In the original schematic, it looks like V2 (EC92) is supposed to work as the error amplifier. However, it doesn't have any voltage reference and will always operate with a positive Vgk. Not what you want...
The 0~-70 V output isn't regulated either. I honestly don't see the point of the emitter follower T2. Why would you take the supply output off the base but run the meter off of the lower impedance emitter? There are better ways to build tube power supplies. Have a look at Designing Power Supplies for Tube Amplifiers by Blencowe for example. You can also look at this thread: High Voltage Regulators (Maida or zener) I went through quite a few regulator topologies before landing on the two I have on my website. For a variable supply, I use a high-voltage transformer fed from a variac. Works great. No thermals to worry about. No regulation either, but good enough for most experiments. ~Tom
__________________
21st Century Maida Regulator, Universal Filament Regulator, 300B Driver PCBs, and more... Neurochrome : : Audio - http://www.neurochrome.com/audio - Engineering : : Done : : Right Last edited by tomchr; 31st December 2012 at 03:45 AM. |
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#15 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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Sorry... Didn't see Post #13 until I after I'd written my post above.
Quote:
Quote:
~Tom
__________________
21st Century Maida Regulator, Universal Filament Regulator, 300B Driver PCBs, and more... Neurochrome : : Audio - http://www.neurochrome.com/audio - Engineering : : Done : : Right |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kiel, Germany
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To use the 12AT7 at 6.3V you need to connect Pins 4&5, not 4&9. In your schematic half of the heater is shorted.
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Quote:
Book a few months back for my iBooks app, I haven't finished it yet But it is a marvelously well written book, as soon as I get my new iPad I will try and finish it, it's hard to read on an iPhone!! I also have Morgan Jones' book. On Kindle that is an in depth read. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kiel, Germany
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In the later schematic it says 6V3 heater for both double triodes and the tubes are in parallel. That's ok. But connecting pin 4&9 on each tube is not ok. Pins 4&5 connected together are one pole of the 6V3 heater, pin9 is the other.
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