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Old 9th December 2012, 03:47 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DF96 View Post
May be better to build it as it is, then upgrade it later. A common mistake made by inexperienced folk is to want their first ever build to be so perfect that they will never need to change it. The result can be frustration for them and us, as it doesn't work but they can't tell us exactly what they have done - all we know is that it is different from the published circuit.
I don't like solder and desolder that's the reason I ask advice, I know LED sound because I used, I only need to know or better how can I calculate the LEDs values?
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Old 9th December 2012, 03:56 PM   #42
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin el mago View Post
I don't like solder and desolder .....
thats part of the fun
but only when prepared for it, hardwired, but not with everything tied together like a truck load

man, now I am tempted to dust off my old senheiser
always been a dream to own a nice tube headamp

any noise issues to consider ?
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Old 9th December 2012, 04:02 PM   #43
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I'm not expressed well, I like solder but not to rework or desoldering & resoldering because components take the risk of be damaged, when you don't know the result is part of fun to learn changing the components but one time you know is loss the time.
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Old 9th December 2012, 04:57 PM   #44
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin el mago View Post
... risk of be damaged....
not one bit
its only a problem with printboards
but this kind of work you can desolder and solder a hundred times, as much you like
and it will still look fresh and new, like the first time

but without practice and experience.... yes, then you are right about it

any photos of a similar build ?

ehh, btw, power supply says 100ma
wouldn't that be big enough for a power amp ?
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Old 9th December 2012, 05:07 PM   #45
DF96 is offline DF96  England
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1. To change a design you first need to understand the design.
2. The alternative is to ask someone else to take the time and trouble to understand the design for you, then tell you how to change it.

1 is called DIY. 2 is called consultancy.

We have guided you to some understanding on CR first-order high-pass filters. Now I suggest you investigate valve biasing and load lines.
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Old 9th December 2012, 05:40 PM   #46
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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2 is called consultancy.
he was 'cocky', sure, but that is bloddy arrogant

we could try and have a look at some older posts
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Old 9th December 2012, 08:36 PM   #47
rongon is offline rongon  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin el mago View Post
I don't like solder and desolder that's the reason I ask advice, I know LED sound because I used, I only need to know or better how can I calculate the LEDs values?
Use of LEDs in this way is well covered in Morgan Jones "Valve Amplifiers" 3rd Edition, which you can find here and there. It's really worth reading. Highly recommended.

--
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Old 9th December 2012, 09:15 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongon View Post
Use of LEDs in this way is well covered in Morgan Jones "Valve Amplifiers" 3rd Edition, which you can find here and there. It's really worth reading. Highly recommended.

--
Thanks for advice, just reading.
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Old 19th December 2012, 10:27 PM   #49
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What's the total consumption to calculate the dummy load?

220V : 0,01A = 22K?

If not used CCS to simulate with PSUD2 I have to insert a resistive load right?

Last edited by merlin el mago; 19th December 2012 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 9th January 2013, 03:56 AM   #50
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Hola Merlin.

I have a similar build using Nichicon 470uF/450V caps, and the result is very good.

I am using an external regulated-variable power supply and 6F8G bottles, so it can not be called "mini" amplifier

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
(the front cover is still provisional)

Last edited by pingfloid; 9th January 2013 at 04:01 AM.
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